Are the FPR's the same on both sides or are they different part numbers and pressure ratings?

 

Different functions, different part numbers

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Brad

Did you eliminate the FPR on 'A' Bank as Greg and Grant advised rather than replacing it with another one

If so try that first to see if she runs ok

Though in the event that you wanted to replace the FPR on 'B' Bank anyway, then as 'Doug' said that is a different Part Number and a totally different fitting with different Connections to the one on 'A' Bank

 

I thought i would semi hi-jack this thread rather than starting a new one.
Here are the two FPR valves in my 1983 XJS. One is 234 the other is 229, are they the correct ones fitted?






After much deliberation, with myself, I have decided to replace both of them rather than by pass one of them..
Are the codes for new replacement FPR's these ones?
Lucas 73232A 4RV I would hazard a guess at Bank A
and
Lucas 73239B 4RV another guess at bank B

Thank you.

​​​​​​​Graeme.

 

look up the correct part numbers on this website:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

This is the actual page:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
Then order those parts from Manners or any other specialist supplier. Aftermarket non-Jaguar packaged ones are fine, as long as supplied by a specialist.

 

Thanks Greg, great help, only £122 delivered for the two of them, bargain. Both S&G and British Parts stock them, similar price.

Graeme

 

I order tow new FPRs as well rather than try to later the original set-up which seems to work just fine. This will be my Saturday AM project.

As the FPRs look identical you have to rely on the part numbers to know which side get the higher pressure rated one.

Fingers crossed it works and from there it is onto sorting out some electrical issues with the lights.

 

Going from memory here but I'm pretty sure you'll find that the brackets and orientation of the threaded fittings makes it impossible to install them on the wrong side

Cheers
DD

 

True, they are different sizes slightly, but they only fit onto the one they are meant to fit onto, which helps.

It took me 80mins to change both of them, 19mm spanner, 14 mm spanner, 13 mm socket, flat head for prising, long nose pliers, T40 torque. A small plastic cup( Pakora sauce size) for catching fuel, I put it back into the tank

Undo the bracket that they are attached to, much easier to get from underneath when they are off.

Hope this helps.

Gee.

 

An update, I changed oth FPR's and absolutely no difference to the starting, still taking 6 pumps of the fuel pump

I contacted McMillan Jaguar in Motherwell, not far from me, he mentioned that I should check the hose to the ECU, it may be blocked he said.

There should be a vacuum, I checked it, there "Is not a vacuum". It's split by a T-Piece as well, pic below below.

I blew down it, no back pressure, air is getting out somewhere, either by the t-piece or ?

 

That tee in the vacuum tube to the ECU is a new one on me. I'd trace the hoses and see where they go. Something important might be revealed

Cheers
DD

 

Can you elaborate on this a bit?

A new thread might be a good idea

Cheers
DD

 

The T piece sends vac to the Rochester valve, which is a small black round flatish thing hidden up the side of the tank. This valve vents the tank to atmosphere, but needs a slight vacuum to open it. The idea being that when the car is stationary the tank cannot vent, but when it is running it can. Your Rochester valve may have failed; but as long as it fails open, it does not matter! On UK models, like mine, with no vapour cannister recovery system, this valve was fitted roughly where part number 28 is arrowed in this diagram in the link:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
In USA cars, the Rochester valve was fitted in th engine bay as part of the vapour recovery pipework, but it has the same function; to seal the tank when the engine is not running, number 8 in this diagram in this link:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

Block off the T arm that does NOT go to the ECU, and then test for vacuum as below.
The vac source comes from the balance bar across the back of the engine that links the two manifolds. Sucking on the ECU end will show some resistance, but you will be sucking some air through the butterflies, remember. If there is a bit of vacuum doing this, then the vac line is probably OK. If not, then this has to be investigated further, so post again.

 

Cheers Greg, I will give it a try.

Just one point, this is a vacuum pipe, should I not blow down it?

Cheers,

Graeme.