Not a great deal has been written on approaching the fuel pump replacement through the interior rear shelf in the face lift coupe model. It might be helpful to get some details on the procedure. I know you must remove the rear seat and deal with the seat belts and the brake light. I would like to know if the rear shelf has to be cut to get access to the pump or may the whole shelf be removed. Once the cut is made or the shelf removed is the tank blocked by a metal shelf that also has to be cut, or has Jaguar exposed the top of the tank for access to the pump? Any enlightenment on this procedure would be appreciated.

 

Hi Afterburner

Have you got a problem with your Fuel Pump, or are you just thinking ahead in case you do at some time in the future?

 

Thinking ahead. I have 64k miles on the pump and some noise. Figure it might pack up soon. There are three ways to go. I. through the trunk, 2. through the back shelf and 3. a secondary tank in the trunk and bypass the defective pump.
Under the back shelf is the mystery. Once the shelf is cut or removed are you at the top of the tank or must you cut a metal access to the top of the tank? In the face lift coupe model I have no knowledge of the answer. If you are at the tank when the shelf is removed, this appears to me the easiest method to replace the pump. Somebody must have done this and can illuminate the subject.
OB When you install the Japanese fuel pump will you advise on how well it worked?

 

Get a dremel or angle grinder and cut out a square piece above where the fuel pump is. Do not go all the way through the metal --just enough you can tap it out when your done. There was about an inch of space to spare on mine. Double check yours before cutting. As long as you do not go through the metal too far and as long as there is not gas leak, you will live. I did mine and Im still here...

 

Hi Afterburner

If you are changing the Fuel Pump on a Coupe, then I would suggest you don't cut a hole but instead change the Fuel Pump in the Conventional way and while its a PIA Job

It should be a lot easier to do it on a Coupe than it is on a Convertible, with the Hydraulic Pump right in the way, where in my case I went and made it harder for myself by taking the Fuel Tank right out of the Car altogether

Which strictly speaking you don't have to do, as pulling it back is sufficient providing you put some blocks of wood in the Boot/Trunk, so that it doesn't drop down

In other words give the Fuel Tank a level surface to slide on when you pull it out of the recess that its tucked into

While I agree that it may be 'Tempting' as in 'Very Tempting!' to go and cut a hole, its not as if you'll be doing this job on a regular basis

And so it may be better just to just 'bite the bullet' and get on with it

 

Any way you look at it, it's a RPITA (R= REAL) Consider this: Your out in the boonies and you just put 20 gallons in the tank the fuel pump goes out. You have no bars on your cell, you have no backup pump and minimum tools. and the little lady in the passenger seat says, "Fix it honey!" Now that's a RPITA!
Thank you OB and Hoodin. I was hoping that the rear shelf could be unbolted and the top of the fuel tank would be visible. I don't like the idea of cutting a hole in the shelf with a Dremel or cut off tool. because of the lack of head room in the car and fabricating a repair of the hole. OB you are the second person that has indicate the tank does not have to be removed and just maneuvered to the rear. As I understand it the under car fitting need not be disconnected.either. I also understand that the rubber collar between the tank and the nossle receptical is difficult. Could that be replaced with a suitable non standard replacement, such as a modified radiator hose? Eighty Pounds seem a little excessive!
All in all, OB I have to agree with you the easiest way is the movement of the tank and not through the rear shelf. I do not like the idea of dealing with an in-tank pump with the possibility of fire or explosion. I may turn it over to a garage, But armed with the knowledge from you and Hoodin I will be able to explain the proper method to approach this task and hopefully keep costs to a minimum.. PS: I did burn an E-Type installing an external pump! Hense my apprehension. PSS: Is it possible to cover the rivet on the floor under the tank, right hand side, that holds an under car part? As I understand it the rivet will eventually wear a hole in the tank.









and you wi

 

Hi Afterburner

(1) The Fuel Tank can be pulled back, there is no need to take the Tank out

(2) You do have to disconnect the Fuel Pipes because they are only just long enough to reach the fittings on the Tank, for which of course you need a Special Tool. unless you make one out of a piece pipe

(3) The Sleeve (That's the £83 pound sleeve!) is about the thickness of a Rubber Glove and that's a problem because it sort of grips onto the Filler Pipes making it almost impossible to get off

So I too will be going into my local Hydraulic Shop to get a piece of Air Cleaner Hose for a Tractor for about a Fiver!

(4) If you get a Garage to do the Job, then you are probably looking at $500 for Labour plus the parts

 

OB, Thanks so much for the info! In (2) above, you are talking about the two fittings that are approached from under the car, Right? Are the clips the type you squeeze with a long nose pliers to spread the clip and pull the hose?.In (3) above I am surprised Jaguar use such a thin sleeve.I would have assumed the walls of the sleeve to be about a 1/16 inch or more. $500 doesn't sound like much when you consider the loss of a car, garage and part of the house.
I just want to thank you again. Your info has been very helpful and I appreciate it!

 

OB check out the bottom of page 256 Kirby Palm's book Experience in a Book. Pertains to the substitution of different fuel pumps

 

Hi Afterburner

In (2) you push the hoses in and then Secure with 'e' Clips

One of the problems being that the Cage is right in the way, hence the need for a Special Tool

One of the hardest parts of the job is fighting your way through a Fog of depression, knowing that if they had used the same (external) Pump that was on a V12 you could have had the whole thing done and dusted in under an hour

 

OB
Npt sure you picked up on p.256 of Palm's book, Experience in a Boor. This is what I was referring to:

FUEL PUMP VARIATIONS: Peter Smith says, “The pump motor is used on several cars including Volvo, but the rotors are said to be different to provide different flows for different cars.” Just in case there is any misunderstanding, let me make the implications here perfectly clear: the fuel pump is not an item that you should replace with a pump from a different car just because it looks the same. If you install a pump with a lower flow rate, the car might run fine at normal speeds but run lean when floored and the ECU is operating in open-loop fueling mode. The result will be burned pistons. There won’t be any warning prior to burned pistons.

The reason I mention this is because you were talking about a Nisson pump

 

Hi Afterburner

The Pump that I bought is suitable for engines up to 400hp and so it should be ok