I got a flavor injector syringe for turkey from Dollar Tree and a bottle of brake fluid (not from Dollar Tree). I sucked all the brake fluid out of the reservoir, cleaned the screen and refilled it with new brake fluid. If I do that once a week four or five times, will the new brake fluid eventually make it to the calipers?

Or should I empty my kids piggy bank and get a real system flush? The brakes work fine. My piggy bank is empty, I spent it on another XJS. :-)

 

That's not going to do anything - you have to open bleeder valves and push fluid through for it to have any effect. If you're not familiar with the concept and practice of bleeding brakes this is one where you pay the experts.

 

I agree that the method you've described won't really do anything...especially since the system looks pretty well gunked-up. As mentioned you really want to push that old stuff out entirely.

A brake fluid flush is really just the same procedure as bleeding the brakes but you're not trying to get any air out ....so it's pretty simple, really. If you wanted to give it a DIY whirl we can walk you through the steps.

Cheers
DD

 

Andreas, buy yourself a one way valve thingy like this Motion Pro:
Then go to each caliper in turn and proceed as follows (start with the fronts as they are easier to get at so you get the idea):

1. remove wheel and place stand under the wishbone
2. pull rubber cap off the bleeder nipple
3. shove tube onto the nipple
4. install helper in the car to push the pedal as required
5. 10mm spanner on nipple (ring spanner is best and be careful you do not just snap the nipple if the caliper is old)
6. ask the helper to push the pedal and HOLD IT DOWN
7. crack open the nipple, when fluid stops coming out CLOSE IT
8. now tell helper to release the pedal
9. TOP UP the reservoir every few pushes
10. continue until clean fluid comes out of the nipple
11. then move on to the other three brakes, which will be quicker as only the old fluid in the caliper and the line to it will have to be purged.

The inboard braked rear caliper nipples are a royal pain to get at. If you intend to keep the car, treat yourself to a remote bleeder kit for Christmas, such as: Remote Bleed Kit for Jaguar IRS Brakes - Fosseway PerformanceFosseway Performance
Banjo adaptors and all. It transformed my life!
Greg

 

++++ all the replies above.

BUT

Place a piece of wood, phone book, wad of rags, whatever rocks you boat, UNDER the brake pedal so the "helper" CANNOT push that pedal ALL THE WAY to the floor.

All that GUNK is sitting in the bottom of the master cylinder, and when the "helper" gets to the bottom, that gunk cuts the crap out of the piston seals. Piggy bank get drained some more for a new Master Cylinder.

 

Just so you understand why the above answers are right:

Brake fluid does not cycle around. It stay where it is. So a 'flush' only works by forcing the fluid out.

 

The turkey baster thing might help in a limited way. But, as Doug opines, the gunk there is formidable. A major strip, clean and replace might be the only way to get a clean system.


Greg's method is time tested and effective. In view of your budget limitations, that is your best bet.


An ancient tech method might alleviate, but not fix the "gunk" thing.
Gravity! Provide drain hoses for the calipers to glass jars. Remove the master cap. Open the bleed nipples on each caliper. Observe and replace the missing fluid in the master as it empties. When the fluid runs clear, close the nipples Follow with a full bleed.


Caveat: I avoid "spanners" when ever possible in favor of ring wrenches or better yet sockets. I shudder at rounded off brake nipples caused by a "spanner". USA speak, "open end vs box end" in the same order.


A few years back, a visit to big box store with an acclaimed tool department failed to have that syringe in either the housewares or tool department. And, the clerks seemed mystified as to what I wanted!!! I think I reverted to a high school chemistry technique. The pipette.





Carl

 

I would be taking the reservoir off and cleaning it out before putting new fluid into it. The last thing you want is that gunk going through the system.

 

If the car is a keeper, I would replace the master cylinder too!

 

Andy,

On an ultra-rare car such as this 1975 XJS, I'd change the master cylinder (assuming I could source an original part) AND completely remove and clean the reservoir before letting any new fluid go through the system. Even if you're not changing the MC, definitely remove and clean that reservoir before flushing the system.

Cheers

Paul

 

After cleaning the master cylinder why not use a pressure bleeding kit?

Not expensive and makes things so much easier. Do not need another person's help either.

 

Yes!

And no.

I have a pressure bleeding kit and a vacuum bleeding kit. Both work well...but not in all cases.

The pressure bleeding kit I have came with numerous adapters for different master cylinders which, oddly, never seem to fit on any of the cars I typically work on. Grrrr! Payback for some past sins, I reckon. But, when I get a good match the system is great.

I used the vacuum bleed just as often.

And sometimes I just use the tried-and-true pump-the-pedal method.....

One-person bleeding is very easy with a bleeder bottle like this.....

http://www.truechoice.com/images/pro...il/bbb_102.jpg

......a perfectly functional facsimile of which can be made at home

Cheers
DD

 

Paul,

"On an ultra-rare car such as this 1975 XJS, I'd change the master cylinder" - that is exactly what I spent my piggy bank on. A December 1975 XJS with a VIN number before the first modification. This one however is a 1988 with a salvage title. A nice rust-free car with a new cooling system, but not rare.

:-)

 

I had to "adapt" a used brake reservoir cap in place of the cumbersome rubber bung with chain clamps to get my kit to be functional. So good point.

 

I'm going to throw in here.

If brake fluid didn't "cycle around" then the reservoir fluid would never get dirty. In fact, after you park your car the brake fluid naturally circulates, as the fluid at the calipers is hottest, and rises in the system.

If you don't have the money to have someone do it, or the time to change it, I am all for doing reservoir swaps once a year to keep fresh fluid circulating in your system. Of course you can use silicone in non-abs, so that requires less maintenance.

I personally would pull that reservoir and clean it, its remote, so why not? Wash with alcohol, not water.

 

Sure, thermosyphoning is possible, but it doesn't pump around through return valves and pipes... That is what is meant with a cycle

 

Where is there an anti-return valve in the XJS(Except the booster)? Fluid has to be able to reach equilibrium for the brakes to stop braking.

Even in an ABS car, compress the pistons to change pads and you will see the reservoir level go up. The braking system has to flow both ways to work. Once again, fluid in the reservoir gets dirty, thats the only observation you should need to know the fluid circulates.

 

You win...

 

LOL

 

That turkey baster is useful to empty the reservoir before topping up it up again to start the bleeding cycle.No use in pumping all that dirty crap through the system. Drum brake systems were worse in getting the fluid dirty. Probably because the wheel cylinder itself seldom got hot enough under normal usage, to boil out any condensation. The caliper heats up more and usually prevents condensation. The water in the fluid can cause the fluid to boil under extreme use which renders the brake system useless.