I pulled the old cruise bellows out of my car years ago, and lived without CC for 7 years. Finally a couple of months ago I decided it was about time I installed new electronic cruise control. The module I used is from a VR Commodore it is a Delphi GM unit as used in all sorts for mid 90’s GM vehicles.

I had fabricated the mounting brackets but unfortunately the first module I bought was faulty and as I bought it sooo long ago I had no comeback. So I bought another module off eBay, as it was from a different model Commodore – guess what YEP the mounting is different, OH well, modify the bracket to fit the different module.

After the installation I had an intermittent fault where the brake fuse would blow sometimes and the NO brake wire would get hot when the fuse didn’t blow. Now to me this reeks of an intermittent short circuit. It took me 5 minutes to find the wiring I had put through to the cabin from the engine bay had a pinched wire. The wire was pinched when I closed the bonnet by the bonnet cable, see pic. To solve the problem I removed the LH HVAC blower and re-routed the wiring.





I installed the module in the LH inner guard behind the front wheel, I figured it’s out of the way, out of the heat and reasonably dry.





To make it easier to remove the engine for my swap later this year I fabricated a temporary bracket to join the CC cable at the throttle pedestal.







As the GM CC module uses switch to 12v as apposed to Jaguars switch to ground I had to modify the CC switches. For the Set, Resume and On/Off switches I cut the ground inputs and grafted them to a convenient ignition switched 12volt supply. This necessitated a wiring change in the master switch.







Switch Wiring changes.

Green/Yellow pin 3 top left 12v
Black pin 4 top right 12v
Black/Slate pin 2 middle right Resume
Yellow/Orange pin 1 middle left On/Off


Connectors added between the Jaguar loom and the new GM CC module.





The CC is in at tested and works great, best thing is it only cost me about $90. I haven’t quite finished the wiring diagram yet as soon as this is finished I’ll post it up if anyone else is interested in doing this upgrade.

 

While you're at it Warren, a question while I am currently doing my cruise control and would like the original looks but was always wondering: wouldn't it be easier to connect the CC bellows directly to the throttle pedastal instead of the pedal?

I can't really see any difference in connecting either the pedal (as normal) or directly to the throttle itself... Force would be the same. This is something I am actually allowed to alter... I would keep the bellows in the V but instead acting on the pedastal...

Any reason why it wouldn't work?

 

It won't work on the stock pedestal. I did initially connect the CC to the LHD side of the pedestal, but when the CC pulls on the capstan the throttle cable goes loose and into a loop and vise Aversa this could catch a cable and hold the throttle open, NOT a good thing.

I plan on modifying the capstan so it will work. I need to think about how each can pull on the capstan without effecting the other cable.

 

How about a swap to later pedestal already set up with direct bellows?

 

Baxtor

I too have removed my CC but now would quite like it back. The later smaller CC unit would be better, or an aftermarket kit. But like Warren says, the problem I have is that I have removed the OEM double cable arrangement and I cannot see how to avoid the capstan loose cable problem.
have you or anyone else got a photo of how this later system overcomes the problem?
Or anyone else got an idea?
Greg

 

I didn't realize the the later capstan had this I have one on my 6.0L but it's with Norm ATM. I'll see if I can pick it up next time I'm in Melbourne.

 

Hmm, later pedastal would be a problem with the Marelli ignition setup (afaik). Though mine has only just started to look nice

@ Warren

Ah, I forgot that. You'd want to have two throttle rolls instead... One which pulls both (for the pedal) and one which would move independantly for the cruise.

Or a direct connection to the throttle pedal cable instead!? But then it would be the same as it is already... Just instead of mounting it at the bottom it would be at the top

 

Those later cars still ran marelli ignition Daim. So that is covered.

 

Both cables need to move independent of each other.

I was thinking about this and using a system similar to the later V12 cruise bellows linkage for both throttle and CC. This will allow both to slide on the capstan.

The other way would be to rotate the capstan 45° CW and attach the cables via slide links to the holes in the wings. This would require relocating the idle switch and shortening the rods. The capstan only turns 45° it should work.

I originally did this (see photo) and when either cable is pulled the other goes loose and loops.

 

Been chasing bugs today, the CC worked but only up to 95km/h not too useful on the open road. I had a suspicion the issue was the VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal), so I broke out the big guns.



The Jaguar VSS (diff mounted speed sensor) was 56hz at 40km/h this works out to be 5040ppkm or 8000ppm (pulses per mile) so at 95km/h the CC thought I was doing about 160km/h which is 136hz and the limit of the CC and it disengages.

2 options I have is to use the VSS from the 4L60e as it's from the same year model as the CC this should work, but requires me to remove the console and drivers seat as the TCU is under the seat. Or divide the frequency of the Jag VSS by 2.

The CC will be great once I have the VSS sorted. I drove my brothers 68 Mustang that has aftermarket CC and it was nowhere near as smooth in its acceleration and didn't hold speed within ±2km/h. This GM unit does so the question is was it worth the effort - DEFINITELY

 

Limiting it at 160 kph is weird!? My C30 would cruise all the way up to 200 kph. Faster WOULD have been possible, but it isn't fun going that speed on cruise.

My X308 cruises at 220 kph with CC activated... Okay, extreme situation here, as it is the only place on the planet where it is legal to cruise at those speeds.

 

Australia (the nanny state) has a blanket speed limit of 100km/h 110km/h on some motorways this is it, unless you're in the NT (only 1 state) where the open road limit is 130km/h.

The state where I live the cops book drivers for 5km/h over the speed limit.

 

5 km/h? Wow! That is really nanny-like...

If I drive 10 km/h faster than the limit, nobody cares. around 11-12 km/h over the limit is where the speed cameras react. Even the rozzers don't care about that. Fines start at 11 km/h too fast and are then like €15 (extraurban) or €25 (innerurban)...

German speeding tickets are hillariously cheap compared to other countries so even WITH a limit you speed... I rarely drive slower than 60 km/h in a town. And outside a town 110 or more is no worry, as long as it isn't 31 km/h faster (inside no more than 20 faster from 21 on you get a point).

 

WOW

$300 fine and 3 point here for 11km/h over the limit and 45km/h over the limit your vehicle is impounded.

 

You more so get fined for driving too slow here €20

 

Finally got the cruise control working. My major problem was getting the GM CC module to recognize the VSS. This would not be as an issue if I had the earlier non-electronic 4L60/700R4 as the non-electronic trans uses a 2,000ppm (pulses per mile) VSS exactly what the CC needs.

Having the diff mounted VSS on my car made this a little challenging. The CC recognized the VSS directly from the Jaguar sender but as the pulses were 8000ppm the CC only worked up to 40km/h, not very useful. The 4L60e VSS is 128,000ppm so even less useful.

I decided to buy a commercial VSS divider - well this recognized the VSS from the transmission but not from the diff VSS and these units do not divide by 64, best I found at a reasonable price was divide by 2.

So I built my own divider unit, this worked with the car off and being driven from a signal generator, but was very noisy with the car running.

To cut a long story short the Digitech speedo corrector I bought recognized the transmission VSS and conditioned the signal well enough to feed the divider I built which in total divides the 128,000ppm down to 2000ppm and VOIA the CC works.

 

Warren
If you have time can you explain this in a bit more detail, please? I cannot see how one cable can move the capstan without the other looping out of its track on the capstan, and on my car at least, it does not go back into the track when all is released. Consequently the capstan is jammed open a bit at best, and possibly could be jammed completely given enough usage.

 

I'll give it a try, it's always difficult to explain something with a pic.

The older style capstan would be pulled directly by the cable, slotted bars would be attached to the cable and run on pins.

The 6.0L capstan is 2 piece and the CC has a slotted link that runs on a pin under the capstan. Using this idea you could add pins to the wings and use slotted bars rather than the wire to pull the capstan.

 

If anyone has a photo of the slotted bar arrangement for the later CC on the 6 litre capstan, I would be very grateful.
Greg

 

I have the capstan but not the CC, I'll take a pic tomorrow