Unless a straight edge shows a need I will not be getting any skimming done - I've read a couple of posts about bowed heads, I'm going to try and leave the cams in place, if I absolutely end up needing a puller to get the heads off and I'm not buying one of those unless I have no choice.

 

I am 100% certain your engine is fine. I only mention the following for the benefit of others who may read this thread:
If, repeat IF, any Jaguar V12 head requires machining flat, then the cam/tappet block casting must be removed from the assembly and BOTH sides of the actual head casting machined. This is the only way to ensure the cam bearings are not misaligned on the bolting down of the machined head.
See this link for the camshaft/tappet casting:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
which is attached to the actual head casting, see this link:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

 

Pay's to be aware of such things, I don't expect too many engine shops these days have much if any experience with V12 Jag hardware. I'm still fishing around for a specialist bolt remover but not finding any that will let me keep the engine together in my area - the item I'm the most nervous about is the chain tensioner, need to source the tools / tool design for the tasks. Also looking for a decent air hammer that I can use for various tasks to see if I can get the bolts out of bank A once the lump is out, may even see if I can remove the broken pig since I'll have better access before committing to the dismantle - dismantling will be the absolute last resort.

 

yes the joys and expense of Jag engines, at least a simple job turns into a great learning experience!


bare block with crank installed

still at it, but coming together!

 

@ronbros - which bolt holes did you use to mount that block in that way - I would ask if the threaded bolt holes at the top of the block can handle the weight - but yours seems to be OK - how much thread is there available in the block ?

Would I be right in thinking these take 3/8" UNC bolts.

I have an angine stand that can handle 680kg so that's more than enough - question is are the block threads up to it - I've read a few posts elsewhere that don't recommend and recommend using the engine mounts instead - but my stand won't support that.

 

yes be careful on newer type engine stands,( like made in china)!
my stand is over 60 yrs old made for Ford big block cast iron engines, for Ford dealer ships!
i bought it at an auction 30 yrs back, but i'm long retired and sold the business!
and i run the longest bolts into the aluminum holes!
as a precaution i put a wood 2/4 leg up front until i tried to let the engine, again care ful when turning the engine upside down!


i think i mounted the manifolds at this stage.

getting chassis ready for engine install. without tranny, block of 2/6 wood under oil pan. it is a heavy SOB.

 

upside down early on build up!

lower end assmbly!

finally in the car, 1 yr later!

 

That looks nice - some hours and sweat there. Can you remember which bolt holes you used at the back to mount the block ?

Can't beat the older tools - I buy them when they turn up. I got out of the motor trade near 40 years ago and my real old school stuff has long since vanished.

I'm hoping to store the engine for a while, I may end up removing the heads but hope not, the stand is simply to keep it off the floor and provide some small ability to move the thing without using a hoist if I do remove the heads.