Hi Folks,

I was cleaning up the 96 XJS Engine Compartment...Specifically the Compressor Side Hood and Fender Well. Trying to prepare for the upcoming meet in St. Petersburg, Fl. next week on the 9th of Nov.

Using cleaner, lots of elbow grease I was cleaning up the compartment being...I thought...extremely careful with the water to wash off the Gunk!!!

Got it looking Great!!!

Let it set for a while and tried to start to help dry things off.

COULD NOT GET IT STARTED!!

Played around and finally got it to fire up using starting fluid.

Ran for ~ 30 secs and died

Played with again w/starting fluid and got it fired up and it ran for a couple of minutes at idle.

Tried again and took it out for a spin on the road.

It seemed to work fine just cruising along until I punched it and it bogged down. Decided not to try that again and drove carefully back home. Drove it ~ 10 minutes.

Got home in the driveway.

Waited a bit and tried to start again once I got it in the driveway but could not get it started...tried more starting fluid .... It fired but sounded like gigantic engine knock...ping.

As of this moment I put it on the charger and will try again in a while.

I checked all the connectors they seem to be okay. There is a large multi pin connector under what look like brake lines ( located on firewall as you face the front of the car/engine..Top Left corner on the passenger side.

I went through a tremendous rain storm a month ago and didn't have any problems like this.

It doesn't seem like it is getting fuel which doesn't make sense since I was able to drive it..

ANY IDEAS??


Thanks

Paul

1996 XJS 2+2 Convertible
1989 Mercedes 560SL
Every Other British Sports Car known to Mankind

 

hmmm. I want to follow this thread...

 

4.0 or 6.0?

What compressor?

I think we can agree that if starting fluid is what gets it started and it runs after that, it isn't getting enough fuel at startup. Check all your vacuum connections, especially at the fuel regulators and do a quick check on the fuses to see if any are blown

 

Should I be able to hear the fuel pump when the ignition is first turned on prior to start up?

Never paid attention before.

On my 560SL you can hear with no problem. Two (2) fuel pumps.

1. Should I hear the fuel pump go on
2. 20 amp fuse is OK
3. How to I check the relay.

Have not been able to get it to run!! Using the Starter Fluid it ignites but that's it!!

Thanks

Paul

 

SideScrollin,

I was cleaning the passenger side engine compartment.

Where are the fuel regulators located?

Fuse is OK

Thanks

Paul

 

Well on the earlier cars you can, idk if they started using a different fuel pump later on. On my 88 V12, if I turned the key as far as it will go without cranking, you can hear the fuel pump come on and prime the system for about 3-5 seconds.

The fuel regulators on the 12 are before and after the fuel rail, fuel hose runs through it and there is a smaller pipe for a vacuum hose. Don't know if it is in the same place on the 4.0, or whether it uses 2 of them. If you aren't sure what I mean, google "1996 jaguar xjs fuel regulator" and then look around the fuel rail for that part. Make sure it has the vacuum line hooked up.

Checking the relay depends on your tools, with a multimeter you can check for resistance in the relay, check for voltage on both sides, etc. With a test light you can check for startup power or also hook it up to another 12 volt source and check for power.

with no diagnostic tools your options are limited hook up one side to a 12v source and listening to see if it clicks, or trying to pry the top off and watching for it switching

 

Paul,

I'm not sure how vigorous you were with the water, but pull the coil cover and coils off and see if the spark plug wells have got wet. It's very easy to do on an AJ16 and can cause that erratic start and running that you describe.

Good luck

Paul

 

if you want to look around there are multiple AJ16 Engine bay wash followed by no start topics.

Based in your location I think you either got

A) the ECU wet (remove and check connectors)
B) the coil connectors wet
C) the crank sensor wet

 

I didn't think about that cover, nice tip ptjs1!

 

yeah isn't the ECU like right on that fender for the aj16?

 

Thanks for the information.

1. Where is the crank sensor located

2. Where is the ecu located..engine Firewall passenger side connected to the multiple pin connector?

3. Was very careful...I thought...but I will check the coils

4. pulled out the fuel pump relay and check resistence between the two power pins (the blades that are opposite each other "Larger wires brwn-blue/red)" and are penpendicular to each other (if they touched would form a T). I get no resistence!! I believe this tells me the relay is shorted. Is this correct? If this is correct I will try to purchase a new one tomorrow.

Like I explained earlier in my quest for help, I tried to be very careful.

Originally after I finished as I stated I was able to start the car with the use of Starting fluid. Took a while to get it to run. Drove it for about 10 minutes. Could not punch down on the pedal without bogging down.

Drove it back home and parked in the drive and has refused to start ever since,....! 5 hrs.

Am I in dangerous territory if I disconnect one or both of the fuel pressure regulator gas inlets and crank the engine prior to the purchase of the relay?

Sure hope it is the Relay. Do not like the idea of pulling the tank if the fuel pump is bad.

Thanks

Paul
1996 XJS 2+2 Convertible
1989 Merc 560SL
Every other British Sportcar known to Mankind.

 

Paul,

My suggestion would be to diagnose properly if you have fuel and spark and don't do what so many owners do and just start changing parts.

If it's turning over and not starting since washing but was running fine beforehand, I don't think it will be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay (which is in the boot isn't it?)

Pull one of the plugs, check the state and turn the car over checking for fuel delivery and spark on that cylinder. Work logically from there.

Good luck

Paul

 

1. Crank sensor is going to be near the dampener on the front of the engine somewhere. Look for wires nearby.

2.ECU I believe is on the RHD side fender, not the firewall

3.the 30-87 or brown to blue as you said, should have an open/infinite resistance/ no continuity. If you are certain it has no resistance it is toast.

The injectors only know how to open and close, the can't do anything about the pressure going through them which affects the amount and spray pattern as well as atomization.

Pulling the regulator will not only cause a vacuum leak, it can also cause excessive pressure to the injectors. So you have a small vacuum leak and are overfueling the engine. If it starts, it will probably run like ****.

You need a relay anyway, so just go get it. Hopefully that is all that got shorted and you will be good as new.

 

Thanks for all of the responses.

This morning went out and uplugged the ECU. Looked at the male pins and cleaned with soft wire brush and cleaned with contact cleaner and air dried with my wife hair dryer.

Did the same with the multi pin plug that interfaces with the ECU.

Got in the car and fired right up.

Let it run for a while...God awful smell from the lingering Starter Fluid...But ran good.

Took out for a ride and everything worked including when I punched it.


Thank the Lord that my over zealousness almost cost me big time!!!!!

Must of measured the relay incorrectly.

Anyway everything is good and I continued cleaning up the engine compartment.

NO ISSUES THIS TIME

Thanks for all the responses

SoftBall 60

Paul

96 Jaguar XJS 2+2 convertible
1989 Merc 560SL
Every other British Sports Car known to Mankind

 

Nice! Good deal nothing got fried

 

Im glad you got it figured out.

 

that is wonderful!

 

As someone who has lost 2 ECU's from water ingress in my 95 AJ16 car, I have two comments;

1- seal the wiring harness entrance with silicone. The water comes in thru here when you wash the car or when the a/c water drops make their way thru the cables all the way down to the connectors and ECU



also buy the Ford XG-12 synthetic electrical grease and smear a thin layer over the connectors and pins as it is specifically designed for that pourpose. Dielectric grease is NOT meant to be used in connector pins. The Ford XG-12 is repackaged Nyogel 760g if you want to look up its properties and usages. This is what Ford under the name of XG-12 and Masserati use on their ECU and all their multi pin electrical connectors to specifically prevent water damage.







2-Hope this is not the case for you, but I was pretty sure that I had "caught" the problem early when I discovered the water ingress the last time (before all the precautions I have now taken), I dried the pins and used connector cleaner, it all worked well for a month, and then a lot of intermittent problems started showing up, which I thought where something else, but ended up being the ECU which had already been damaged. If you can get a 95 or 96 ECU as a spare I would suggest you do so.

 

looks like I will be using Baby wipes to clean mine up....

then we can find out what I can damage with a Baby wipe <grin>

 

Spikepaga,

Not sure I understand your photo!!

If your ECU is located in the same spot as mine....Passenger side of car inside engine compartment basically on the right front fender well below what looks to be an eletric motor and brake lines?????

I was cleaning the engine compartment and got water on the multiple pin connector..Both sides of Male/Female.

Cleaned off with contact cleaner, Wifes hair dryer and it fired right up.

On a really huge rainstorm ~ a month ago which I was driving on I-75, had to stop/slow down couldn't see.....I never had any issues!!

Can't tell from the photo what you are pointing out... Is it the Connector??

Suggestion for the coating w/electrical grease is a Great Idea!!

Thanks

Softball60 Paul