Hood Insulator
#1
Hood Insulator
My hood insulator is looking pretty ratty, so I was wondering if I took it off, and did not replace it with a new one, would that matter? I don't care about the noise issue, I just don't want to fry my hood paint. It's single stage oil based paint with NO clear coat.
Any ideas? Has anyone here just taken out the insulator without replacing it? And how much noisier was it? What about the heat?
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Any ideas? Has anyone here just taken out the insulator without replacing it? And how much noisier was it? What about the heat?
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
#2
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XJS forum. Members here with the same model are best placed to offer advice and many will not see it in General Tech Help.
My own experience of the model is limited. My son had an XJS V12 but it's one of the few Jaguar models I've missed out. That being said, I have seen a few with damaged paint on the bonnet and assumed it was from the tremendous heat generated by the V12.
Sadly, forum member Gonzo passed away two years ago. He used to make superb replacement liners for all Jaguar models.
Graham
Graham
My own experience of the model is limited. My son had an XJS V12 but it's one of the few Jaguar models I've missed out. That being said, I have seen a few with damaged paint on the bonnet and assumed it was from the tremendous heat generated by the V12.
Sadly, forum member Gonzo passed away two years ago. He used to make superb replacement liners for all Jaguar models.
Graham
Graham
#3
NOPE.
The heat would screw that paint in one season with nothing under there.
I replaced my dumb factory foam with a more modern material, glued direct to the underside of the bonnet.
The bonnet still has a quite warm/hot feel after a run in the car.
Both my S Types are the same temp feel with their factory insulation.
The heat would screw that paint in one season with nothing under there.
I replaced my dumb factory foam with a more modern material, glued direct to the underside of the bonnet.
The bonnet still has a quite warm/hot feel after a run in the car.
Both my S Types are the same temp feel with their factory insulation.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 06-08-2016 at 05:08 AM.
#4
#5
I bought one from Gonzo for my first XJS. After getting rear ended I got another one.
Sadly Gonzo was no longer with us. So I bought some 1/4" closed cell neoprene and 3M#80. I trimmed down the foam and glued it on. It's been just fine.
Go on eBay and find a sheet appropriately sized and glue one on yourself. Whatever you do, don't try to install something similar to what was there before!
Sadly Gonzo was no longer with us. So I bought some 1/4" closed cell neoprene and 3M#80. I trimmed down the foam and glued it on. It's been just fine.
Go on eBay and find a sheet appropriately sized and glue one on yourself. Whatever you do, don't try to install something similar to what was there before!
#6
#7
That seems to be a good topic for debate if you do a search on hood liners. The cost of the closed cell neoprene and spray adhesive is nominal, so I decided to put one back in the place of the old one.
I'm not sure whether that liner is there as a heat shield or for noise, but the neoprene does a good enough job shielding both.
I'm not sure whether that liner is there as a heat shield or for noise, but the neoprene does a good enough job shielding both.
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#8
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hood liners are there strictly for noise reduction purposes, not the paint. Look at any pre-70s (pre-noise emissions) car. No hood liner, no burnt paint as per common myth.
#9
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It can get pretty hot around here. The bonnet insulator in my XJwuzza six was awful. Looked like a moth eaten bear rug. I removed it.
been running "bare" for years. Bonnett already had a "faded' area
over the exhaust manifold. Lots of polish and wax got it to a tolerable
state.
Even when I wear my hearing aids, engine nose doesn't seem excessive. Just hear the e fans come on as the temps come up.
My car has the infamous thermoplastic, but still shines up quite well.
No crazing either.
I do have a plan B. Mask and drape and spray the area in bed liner.
Low on the "to do" list...
Carl
been running "bare" for years. Bonnett already had a "faded' area
over the exhaust manifold. Lots of polish and wax got it to a tolerable
state.
Even when I wear my hearing aids, engine nose doesn't seem excessive. Just hear the e fans come on as the temps come up.
My car has the infamous thermoplastic, but still shines up quite well.
No crazing either.
I do have a plan B. Mask and drape and spray the area in bed liner.
Low on the "to do" list...
Carl
#10
#11
I always believed the V12 was a QUIET engine, mine all are, so noise was never an issue. E fan noise is barely audible.
The foam was a heat insulator, same density as the equally dumb stuff on top of the transmission up in that hump area.
In fairness probably the best, cheapest, easiest, to obtain back in the day, and has lasted 15+ years, waaaaay past the original intended life of the car, IF we are honest.
Technology has caught up, luv technology, and we have better, more efficient stuff available, in many areas.
I also agree that our S2 cars, both 6 and 12 cylinder, never had such stuff, BUT, there was a spray on rough finish insulation material of some sort, and I never took any real notice of it, other than it was there.
Cars in what we call cooler climtes, UK, Canada, etc would maybe be fine with nothing in there, but that is my opinion only, nothing scientific involved, and we certainly dont have a cool climate, so insulation is a given.
The foam was a heat insulator, same density as the equally dumb stuff on top of the transmission up in that hump area.
In fairness probably the best, cheapest, easiest, to obtain back in the day, and has lasted 15+ years, waaaaay past the original intended life of the car, IF we are honest.
Technology has caught up, luv technology, and we have better, more efficient stuff available, in many areas.
I also agree that our S2 cars, both 6 and 12 cylinder, never had such stuff, BUT, there was a spray on rough finish insulation material of some sort, and I never took any real notice of it, other than it was there.
Cars in what we call cooler climtes, UK, Canada, etc would maybe be fine with nothing in there, but that is my opinion only, nothing scientific involved, and we certainly dont have a cool climate, so insulation is a given.
#12
By far the nicest hood insulators were sold by Gonzo, but he too, is no longer with us.
It doesn't look like there are any options besides buying a 48 inch x 48 inch sheet of insulation and cutting it to shape. A mouse/mice also chewed mine up before I took ownership, so I need to figure something out as well. It's on my to-do list...
#13
#14
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#15
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#17
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Greg in France (06-16-2016)
#18
#19
Taking the hood off is required.
1. You will need to clean the hood from all of the dust and soot from the old hoodliner. Simple garden hose and a sponge will work.
2. More importantly you will need to be able to press (and hold for a few seconds) the closed cell neoprene down so it molds to the contours of the hood. I can't imagine how you would possibly do that effectively with the hood still attached to the car, upside down? I suppose you can remove the front grille and struts, as well as the air ram tube and possibly hinge the hood 180 degrees. That could work. Just make sure you have something to rest it on.
3. Lastly, that adhesive is sticky and impossible to get off. I don't know how you could control or limit how the adhesive was sprayed. Spraying upside down on to the underside of the hood is a terrible idea. Spraying the neoprene and then attempting to apply it could be very messy.
There are four bolts holding the hood in place. Very easy to remove and reinstall. I even took it off once by myself, but I suggest having a second pair of hands for help.
1. You will need to clean the hood from all of the dust and soot from the old hoodliner. Simple garden hose and a sponge will work.
2. More importantly you will need to be able to press (and hold for a few seconds) the closed cell neoprene down so it molds to the contours of the hood. I can't imagine how you would possibly do that effectively with the hood still attached to the car, upside down? I suppose you can remove the front grille and struts, as well as the air ram tube and possibly hinge the hood 180 degrees. That could work. Just make sure you have something to rest it on.
3. Lastly, that adhesive is sticky and impossible to get off. I don't know how you could control or limit how the adhesive was sprayed. Spraying upside down on to the underside of the hood is a terrible idea. Spraying the neoprene and then attempting to apply it could be very messy.
There are four bolts holding the hood in place. Very easy to remove and reinstall. I even took it off once by myself, but I suggest having a second pair of hands for help.
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Greg in France (06-16-2016)