Hi

Having managed to remove the Two Big Caliper Bolts to replace the Caliper, after I lost all Braking on a Duel Carriageway.

I need to disconnect the Flexible Brake Hose where it goes through the inner wing, which seems to be the hardest part of the job so far.

So should I try and to this from underneath the Car or from underneath the Hood/bonnet?

If So Do I need to take the Air Filter or anything else off the Car.

Just having a Tea Break, while my 12 year old Brake Fluid is draining off!

When I put the new Caliper/s back on, should I bleed the Brakes with the Engine Running or Not?

 

If the hose is still attached to the caliper, put a wrench (spanner) on the nut that's inside the wheel well, in such a way that when you loosen the nut inside the engine bay, the wheel well nut will wedge it's wrench against something that will hold it stationary.
If the hose is disconnected from the caliper, it may be easier to wedge the wrench on the nut inside the engine bay, and loosen the nut in the wheel well. Once it's loose enough, you simply spin the hose (since that nut is part of the hose), until the parts separate.

 

im just gonna say, (having myself been updating the same thread for nearly two years), that i dont believe it is proper forum etiquette to start a new thread for each braking related issue that you have.

that being said, i would definitely bleed the brakes with the engine off. no need for vacuum assist when the bleeder screw is open.

 

AS M90 says, the flexible is pinched by a nut each side of the wing. unclip the air cleaner and go in from the top. The solid pipe unscrews by unscrewing the captive nut on the solid pipe fitting from the through-wing fitting, but the though-wing fitting has to be counter torqued by a spanner or undoing the solid hose will just turn and ruin the solid pipe. CAREFUL!

Congrats so far
Greg

 

OB, As far as bleeding goes, I believe, but am not sure, that there is a definite procedure for bleeding antilock brakes on your car. I do not know what it is, but you must be sure you know what it is before you can be sure they are bled properly.

Also, I really do advise that you at least change the rear flexible if you do nothing else to the rears. This is famous for turning itself into a one way system and holding on the rears!
Greg

 

M90, you have and your posts have helped not only me, but many many many others. I truly respect your advice.
But when did we get so formal?

 

its too much clutter. i mean, the first thread was about the braking issue, the second was about proper brake replacement parts, and the third is about correct bleeding proceedure. now we have 3 threads in the feed that are being updated simultaneously, and anyone who cares to respond is jumping from one thread to another answering these questions and carrying conversations across three different threads.
i frequent this forum, ClubGP, Grand Prix forums, Bonneville Forums, L67swap forum, F body forum, 3800 forum, Bonneville Support Group, Fast 3800's, Supercharged All Generations, among others (i clearly dont get out much).
that being said, the general rule i see across all these forums is keep the threads focused, and not only is troubleshooting easier, dialogue is easier to read, and the issues are easier to understand. this helps the OP get the answers hes looking for, the readers in understanding the issue, and its not cluttering up the feed for other people who have problem related threads. ive seen moderators combine threads like these on this forum and others.
because someone like me who is interested in seeing the problem and reading the member response, is having to go back across multiple threads to find out what car the issue is with, what year and engine, along with what replacement parts had been purchased. example, reading through this thread im just now finding out that OrangeBlossoms car is an ABS car. so now im not sure if the replacement calipers he purchased are compatible with my car, and instead of scrolling to the top, i have to go back to another thread to figure out what brand caliper he bought, and if i was curious as to why he bought a new caliper to begin with i would have to go back to the first thread.

im not trying to be a jerk at all. its my opinion that everyone would benefit from a single thread, especially the OP.

 

Hi Greg

I hoped you would 'Chip In' because I'm doing the Job Properly, believe it or not as a Mark of Respect to Yourself!

Do it once, do it Right etc!

And even going to make some new Copper Brake Hoses!

It's not meant to be an Obituary! but I know that is what you would have wanted!

So Big Shopping Trip Planned for Tomorrow! I'm renewing everything!

Getting the Calipers off was a piece of Cake! (Not!)

Torque wrench connected to Scaffold Pole with a Hydraulic Jack underneath and when that didn't work, I put a spanner on the nut and Hit it with a 7lb Sledge Hammer!

The Spanner Broke but the nut came undone! So in my book that's a Result!

Not so with the Brake Lines! The Hard Lines under the bonnet are fine as I was very Careful like you said.

But the Lock Nuts on the Flexibles are Rusted Solid, so its going to be an angle grinder job!

Finding some new lock nuts is going to be a problem, as they don't include them with the hoses.

And I've also got to find some Olives to make up the Copper Hoses from the Caliper to the Flexibles (which I am also renewing including new pads)

I am also going to buy 5ltr of dot4

I've got an unopened Tin in the Garage from 2005! but do not know if its past its sell by date?

Also got a Mega Big Powder Extinguisher and am about to go into Rehab as the XJS is driving me to drink!

I'm already on my Second Bottle of Absinthe, so I guess its all down hill from hereon in!

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Wilco over and out! 'Nothings gonna Stop me Now!

(Sorry! I mean!) 'Every things gonna Stop me Now!

 

Point well taken!
You bring up things I never thought about. I frequent 2 forums, thats all I can handle. I need a life!.
But OB is just so bloody entertaining! Love his posts, dosent bother me! He makes me laugh my butt off!

 

Some people find it more convenient to cut the hose when undoing it if it is to be replaced anyways.

 

There is another side to posting to old threads.

1. They get too long.

2. A new interesting thread appears and a reader slogs through it only to find out that it is an old thread that has been brought back from the dead

Apropos the second point, I have suggested in the past that where the thread has not had a new post in say 3 months, it be auto locked.

Someone coming along who wants to reference the older thread in a new thread can always link back to it.

Finally, there is no one true right way to do things.

It's like the old top posting versus bottom posting argument on usenet.

Or people who cannot be bothered to trim messages on mailing lists.

 

OB

Great stuff. But your torque wrench is now most unlikely to measure torque properly, so do not trust it for that purpose! You need to buy a breaker bar for the future!
Sealey Tools Special Offer! Cracker Power Socket Breaker Bar 600mm 1/2 Drive | eBay
Your point about the locknuts on the flexibles: "But the Lock Nuts on the Flexibles are Rusted Solid, so its going to be an angle grinder job! Finding some new lock nuts is going to be a problem, as they don't include them with the hoses."

I put on a set of Goodridge hoses and they came with them. I do not know about olives on brake lines; mine were flared and into solid fittings; is this an ABS thing?

Greg

 

OB,

Just a couple of thoughts:

- I never use a torque wrench to undo nuts. It's designed to do up nuts and indicate when the effort has reached a defined level. Throw it away now, buy a new one and only ever use it for doing up nuts.

- those discs and pads look very good, plenty of even meat on the pads and nice even conract area on the discs. I'd reuse them.

- still don't know what year car you have there, but the manual is clear on the bleeding process

Good luck

Paul

 

My Work is done!

 

While I could cut through the Brake pipe, the lock nut is the problem as its rusted absolutely sold and I would probably have to dip the whole car in a swimming pool full of WD 40 In order to stand any chance of getting it off!

And believe me I have Tried!

I wouldn't say I use that much but let me put it this way, if I ever stopped using the stuff, their profits might take a dive!

 

When you're up to your neck in muck and bullets and trying to fight with a car that is trying to kill you! while dripping in Vintage brake fluid, you don't always have time to play by the rules! Whatever they may be!

When you need some help or encouragement, then you need it now! and even if its only to make fun of my feeble attempts.

The Cavalry and that is you lot! always ride to the Rescue in some way, unlike the Breakdown Service that the GF got me for my Birthday, who no doubt would have disowned me, as I was less than a Mile from Home.

I wouldn't have been too bothered if the Car had turned into a 'Fireball'
but more about turning up on 'You've Been Framed!'

 

To tell you the truth I'm not really sure but if a pictures worth a Thousand Words then check out the Photo!

David Bailey wasn't around so I had to do it myself and with the benefit of hindsight could have got the GF to hold it up for me and not for the first time either!

As regards the Torque Wrench, Now you tell me (lol) perhaps I'll keep that as a breaker bar and buy myself a new One!

I have only ever used it for doing the Wheel nuts and the Powder Idea that I told you about for using Yardleys Sandalwood on the backing dust covers worked a treat!

I didn't need the Sledge Hammer this time, as they not only fell off but smelled absolutely gorgeous as they did so!

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Hi Paul

I've only ever used the Torque Wrench, for doing and undoing the Road Wheel Nuts.

I'm not a proper Mechanic and if you need anymore proof of that, I buy all my Spanners in the Pound Shop!

Surprisingly they seem as good as the expensive ones, until you hit them with a 7lb hammer and most of the time they don't break.

Though not in the way that my Car has been recently doing!

I'm about to spend a small fortune to-day and Greg would never forgive me if I cut corners and didn't put in new pads.

So if the GF has to do without her Pina Coladas so be it, she will have to get hammered on Absinthe, like the rest of us!

1989 XJS V12

 

Please take this in the spirit it is meant.
I don't know what the regs are over there, but copper line and olives are for plumbing not automotive brakes generating the pressures they do.
It would be steel lines and double flares for me, just like Jaguar used.