Hypothetical Situation: Removing the IRS Cage
#1
Hypothetical Situation: Removing the IRS Cage
Hi Guys
If or When I make an attempt at removing the IRS Cage, which end of the 'Trailing Arm' should I try and take off?
From what I've read in many Posts you undo the metal locking strap and then try and force the Rubber Doughnut off with either a pry bar and or a hammer and chisel
But on paper it would seem easier to undo the Nut that's on the other end, although I haven't read of anyone trying to do it this way
So which way is best?
If or When I make an attempt at removing the IRS Cage, which end of the 'Trailing Arm' should I try and take off?
From what I've read in many Posts you undo the metal locking strap and then try and force the Rubber Doughnut off with either a pry bar and or a hammer and chisel
But on paper it would seem easier to undo the Nut that's on the other end, although I haven't read of anyone trying to do it this way
So which way is best?
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,736
Received 10,741 Likes
on
7,097 Posts
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
leep123 (06-16-2018),
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
#3
Hi Doug
Cheers!
But I was thinking that if you tried to get the Trailing Arm off the Body, if they were really hard to get off then you might pull the Trailing Arm Pin out of the Body
Which could involved a lot of skillful Welding in putting a new one on
Just wondering how the Trailing Arm would get in the Way, as once you've got the Cage out then that would be the only thing you would be working on
Cheers!
But I was thinking that if you tried to get the Trailing Arm off the Body, if they were really hard to get off then you might pull the Trailing Arm Pin out of the Body
Which could involved a lot of skillful Welding in putting a new one on
Just wondering how the Trailing Arm would get in the Way, as once you've got the Cage out then that would be the only thing you would be working on
#4
I just swapped my IRS and was not able to remove the big with out destrying my new-ish bushings... So I took off the little end. It was a bit tricky getting the IRS back in becasue I have a rear sway bar and out board brakes so and the arms and brake lines get in the way. Its very doable and a cinch if you have inboard brakes and no rear sway bar. The rear shock does have to come off the get the bolt out of the little end and putting the bolt back in is quite difficult.
Last edited by icsamerica; 06-16-2018 at 11:26 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by icsamerica:
leep123 (06-16-2018),
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
#5
#6
OB, removal is straight forward and rather simple:
Undo battery, i convert, open rear cubby and lift floor up, unplug both ABS sensor cables, if coupe remove rear bottom seat cushion and undo both cables, undo the right hand brake line (flexy), unclip handbrakecable under car, lift the rear end up high enough on jacks, take both wheels off, undo the radius arms, undo the prop (3 bolts on the diff), unplug the speedo sensor in the rear right corner of the boot, take the exhaust on the left and right side off (undo the over axle connector before the axle and then leave them weaved in the axle), put hydraulic jack under the car, undo all 8 bolts/screws (2 on each rubber bracket) which hold the cage to the body and then drop. I don't think I have forgotten anything...
It sounds like a lot of work but it can be done in a garage or on the floor or what not. Just need some sturdy jacks...
Undo battery, i convert, open rear cubby and lift floor up, unplug both ABS sensor cables, if coupe remove rear bottom seat cushion and undo both cables, undo the right hand brake line (flexy), unclip handbrakecable under car, lift the rear end up high enough on jacks, take both wheels off, undo the radius arms, undo the prop (3 bolts on the diff), unplug the speedo sensor in the rear right corner of the boot, take the exhaust on the left and right side off (undo the over axle connector before the axle and then leave them weaved in the axle), put hydraulic jack under the car, undo all 8 bolts/screws (2 on each rubber bracket) which hold the cage to the body and then drop. I don't think I have forgotten anything...
It sounds like a lot of work but it can be done in a garage or on the floor or what not. Just need some sturdy jacks...
The following 2 users liked this post by Daim:
leep123 (06-16-2018),
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
#7
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,736
Received 10,741 Likes
on
7,097 Posts
The only reason I can think of that the pin would break off is if the area is rusted out. If that's the case then you have bigger problems than just removing the cage.
If the area is rusted it's better to find out now, and make the needed repairs, rather than have it come apart while driving the car and ending up in a ditch.
Cheers
DD
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
leep123 (06-16-2018),
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
OB
In my experience Doug is dead right. Undo the large bolt holding the big end to the cup on the body. get a ;large cold chisel and place it just against the join where the inside cup of the arm bush meets the welded cup on the body. One or two HARD smacks on the metal bits where they meet, not the rubber, and off it will pop.
The small end is hard to undo, requires the shock to suspension pin to be undone at the bottom, the special washer to be knocked back, etc etc. I guarantee you the big end is far easier.
In my experience Doug is dead right. Undo the large bolt holding the big end to the cup on the body. get a ;large cold chisel and place it just against the join where the inside cup of the arm bush meets the welded cup on the body. One or two HARD smacks on the metal bits where they meet, not the rubber, and off it will pop.
The small end is hard to undo, requires the shock to suspension pin to be undone at the bottom, the special washer to be knocked back, etc etc. I guarantee you the big end is far easier.
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
leep123 (06-16-2018),
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
#9
#10
#11
After reading many threads about dropping the irs, I saw several recommendations for using a 24" pry bar like this one from sears to release the front of the arm from the body. I've only done the job once (on an xj6) but it worked as promised. I'm sure you could find something similar in the UK.
https://m.sears.com/mayhew-steel-pro...FRWUaQodS1sDQg
https://m.sears.com/mayhew-steel-pro...FRWUaQodS1sDQg
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (06-16-2018)
#12
Believe me, the join between the top of the arm cup and the body cup is obvious once you give it a clean and get a light on it. Works fine; but it does need a shock on it (rather like the calliper/steering arm bolts) to get it off.
A puller will just wreck the bush and leave the cup and shreds of rubber still attached.
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
Jagboi64 (06-17-2018),
orangeblossom (06-17-2018)
#13
I would imagine he means the carpet or anything covering the cables for the abs connectors. They are quite obvious.
#14
#15
Hi Daim
You 'Did' say:
(Undo battery, i convert, open rear cubby and lift floor up, unplug both ABS sensor cables)
You cannot lift the floor up inside the 'Cubby Box' its solid steel
But having said that the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors are very easy to get to, when you take the Road Wheels off
The ABS Wheel Speed Sensors are very easy to get to when you take the Road Wheels off
You 'Did' say:
(Undo battery, i convert, open rear cubby and lift floor up, unplug both ABS sensor cables)
You cannot lift the floor up inside the 'Cubby Box' its solid steel
But having said that the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors are very easy to get to, when you take the Road Wheels off
The ABS Wheel Speed Sensors are very easy to get to when you take the Road Wheels off
#16
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (06-17-2018)
#17
#18
#19
#20
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (06-17-2018)