The only practical way to do it is to have the car on a hoist. Axle stands won't work, as you can't get the car high enough. You have to remove the upper half shaft from the hub and then let the lower control arms hang vertically down to give enough clearance to get the disk off.

The callipers would have to come off first before the disk, and that's not super easy to get to in the car either. To be honest, it's much easier to remove the IRS and work on it out of the car if you're doing a disk change. The first time to remove the IRS will take a while, but once you've done a few you should be able to have it out in 45 min. The first time will probably take all day though!

 

Jagboi64,

Thank you for the insight. I have decided to drop the IRS. After looking at it, I figure once the exhaust is off, the rest should be basically easy. As in all things, the first look can be daunting. It was that way when I first looked at the V12 in my XJ-S. But after looking at it awhile and replacing a few things. It is just another compressor. I plan to start on Monday and I will keep you up dated.

Thank you again,
J.Walls

 

Very sensible decision, good for you.
Greg

 

.

not to worry , give it a couple years in the OHIO snow and salt, and it will look like normal!!

 

Warrjon
I enjoy reading your posts; they are enlightening upbeat and sometimes very humorous. I like the one above where you dropped the rear end in 1/2 hour. My local garage says they maybe able to do it in eight hours! So much for them. I just got in from my garage where my son and I were working on the front brakes (rear later on) We are both knowledgeable on auto repairs and felt front brakes a piece of cake. WRONG! We are working on a '93 that is not a rust bucket. Far from it. All went well until we got to the two caliper bolts. We started with a pneumatic breaker drill and ended up with a three foot breaker bar. So far we have removed three bolts and still are working on the last long one. The last one is a SOB! Breaker bar has not yet worked. We left the car one inch above the jack resting on the handle of the breaker bar attached to the bolt. We are hoping that over a period of time the weight of the car will break loose the bolt. If not we will pull the wheel unit off the car and persuade the bolt with a torch!
I am not complaining. Just want anyone that reads this post that it is not as easy as a piece of cake or pie or what ever it is!

 

Lots of practice. The first time I took it out it took me ages as the radius arm bushes were rusted to the cups. Now with everything replaced and the exhaust running under the diff I can get the rear end out in about 1/2hr.

Those front caliper bolts can be a right PITA I soaked mine in WD40 for a week and still had difficulty getting them off.

 

Hi Afterburner

Been there done that (or should that be Undone That) Those Caliper Bolts are as you say a Total PIA!

And I had 4ft Scaffold Poles on the end of Spanners and also left the Car hanging up like you did.

Pneumatic Impact wrenches didn't work for me either but I did find something that turned that job, into a 'Walk in the Park'

Which was a Mains Powered Impact Wrench that only Cost about £30 (UK)

Have a look at Pages 9 and 10 of my 'Cherry Blossom' Restoration Thread which includes an 'On the Fly' Live Video.

Of doing the impossible of undoing those Stuck Caliper Bolts in just a few Seconds.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-122634/page9/

 

Mains powered impact wrench ? Am I correct in concluding that is an impact powered by electricity. In UK, 220v ? As opposed to here, where most stuff is 110. Althouhgh most houses have 220 for stoves and dryers. I use one outlet for my HF 6HP aior compressor.


I've both air and electric impact wrenches. My air unit "bangs" a lot harder than my electric one.


True, though, impact plus torque is persuasive.


I did change the front pads on my car. The calipers were fine. Not a tough task at all. Then!! Now??


But, when it became clear that the rear calipers had to go, I farmed that out. 4600 in labor. I got calipers and pads via Rockauto. good price and no cores to mess with.


Carl




ugh

 

Warrjon,Orange Blossem, and Jaycad
Thanks! Still no joy with the larger bolt. It is doing a magnificent job supporting the front end of the car! I am really discouraged because of this fluke and have decided on a different course of action. I wanted to do a complete brake job: redo the calibers, pads, and rotors, but after removing the left front caliber I found the rotor to be perfect and the piston function proper. As a result I am just going to replace the pads.

Comparing the front and rear rotors I think the previous owner did a brake job on the front and skipped the rear brakes......Who could blame him???
Score? Bolt one, me zero!

The rear end is a different story. The rotors have about a 1/8 inch lip and are wavy. They have to be replaced. Bolts are my nemesis! Before I get into this job I would like to know how to start, not necessarily remove the rear rotor bolts. Is it better to loosen them with the drive shaft engaged or just wait until the unit is out of the car?

An after thought:
I intend to use jack stands to support the car and roll the rear end out on two dollies, one under each end. Is there sufficient clearance from the body to do this?

 

The pro mechanic that swapped out my calipers in situ mentioned cutting bolts. Which ? I don't know. But, I think I know. The pro's do that to move things along. Then deal with the stubs !


A few years ago, my neighbor was seeking to extract a bolt securing a stick shift transmission in place. Side line work at the time for extra $'s.


I suggested cutting it. A recip saw did the deed. Relieved of load, the stub came out easily.


Errands done. Outside chores commenced, but shut down early. Counsel to daughter on her errant clothes dryer and F's climbing.


But on the track to fix Chipper I. Drive pulley in place. Seems to align with the driven pulley. Now, insert the key and secure. Two ways this time!!!


Effort to fire up Chipper II delayed. It seems to be low on oil. I got a quart. And found my Ether spray can.


Lunch beckons. Corned beef and ???


Carl


Csrl
Carl
vs!!!

 

If you put the wheels back on and lower the rear with a jack you can wheel it out

 

Carl: Cabbage, preferably fry with onions in EVOO! Anything else your playing Cowboy and Eskimo! I am not going to decapitate that bolt, but thanks for the suggestion. Just going to replace front pads

Warren: I'm going to drop the rear end on to two dollies and roll it out from under the car. The clearance I was referring to is between the body and the rear end. Approximately how high do you have to raise the body of the car?

 

Thanks for raising this Mrtalkradio and for all the responders.


I have never undertaken this job and had always thought that replacing the rear inboard brake pads was a black art only to be undertaken under the light of a full moon having sacrificed the odd virgin or two beforehand. Now I feel I could give it a go if need be.


Glad it worked out for you Mrtalkradio. You live in a beautiful part of the world. We have good friends in NH but I don't see many XJSs out there. Will look closer next time.


Cheers,
LeeP

 

If you remove it sideways, through the wheel arch the car does not need to be very high.

 

mmmm... I like the cut of your jib!

 

Leep123: If you find two virgins send them over here; were running short!

Warren: Of course you pull it out the side! I was only thinking of removing it from the rear. That is a symptom of a common and most prevalent disease call Craniumrectalitis
That was a great picture; showing the 4 bolts and the exhaust displayed the simplicity of the operation.

 

After;


1. T'was corned beef in a tin. A substitute for Spam. Not bad at all. No cabbage in the veg space in the fridge. But, nice cauliflower and broccoli.
Little onions and a tomatoe from "out" smallish community garden. cooked up the veggies in the micro. Garlic salt, olive oil, a tsd of vinegst and pepper. Warmed Corned beef in the micro. Added stewed veggies and a pickle or two. Shared CB with Coco. Delicious !!


2. Pads did the deed in front. Great. 1/2 way there. I feel much safer in my Jaguar that will just "squat ands stop" sans angst!!!


Carl

 

If it's an +89 don't forget the speed sensor cable just seen the pic I posted on the RH side of the cage.

 

Still no luck with the long caliber bolt. This weekend intend to use mepps gas for a protracted period and then use a jack on the end of the breaker bar to encourage dislocation of the bolt.

Estimated probability of success 50%; probability rounding bolt head 85%; probability of breaking the bolt 15% probability of drinking copious amounts of beer 100%

 

I once swapped a 1970 VW type 2 transporters rear brakes to the larger 1971 drums.

46mm rear axle nut was kind of snug. 3/4 socket and breaker bar!
Nope.
3' cast iron pipe extension!
Nope.
8' extension!
Nope.
Jump off top of van onto 8' extension!!!
Sprung me 15' across the back yard. Nope.
Oxy/Acetalene torch! AKA the blue wrench!!!!
knocked 1/3 of the nut off. Axle don't care. Now the 8' extension on the remainder!
nope.
Brown liquor soak. For me.
Ok. Torch off opposite 1/3 leaving two bits. VBFH!!
YES!

Astounding how strong these bonds can be!