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Anyone in the UK know of a decent supplier for the injector connectors (Bosch EV1 I believe).
I've found a few but all seem to be 'generic' made in China type stuff and the prices at some places I can only describe as creative.
I'm not saying that all Chinese stuff is garbage but a lot of it is, and I don't want garbage.
I'll be replacing the wires with 200°C silicone, 16 or 18awg I've not decided, the main harness plug will get replaced by something other than the Jaguar default, likely a more modern sealed type designed for harsh environment.
My need is primarily the injector connectors - I do NOT want any tails on them.
I also plan to attack other areas of the underbonnet harness so if anyone has any connector suppliers / part numbers for the various connectors (if they're even available) it would save me a little time hunting at least.
I like to make sure I have everything needed before starting, I don't like unfinished jobs thats how stuff gets lost and projects get stalled.
PS : One thing I'll add here just in case and for the sake of completeness and before somebody states that Silicone sheathed wire is unsuitable - wrong. The PVC cable sold by most auto suppliers is not suitable for anything beyond 70°C, which kind of makes it unsuitable for underbonnet use, it will leech chemicals and go hard - it isn't a question of IF, it WILL. Given the improved cable technology around suitable for the temperatures that will be present it makes no sense to use PVC sheathed cables under the bonnet / hood.
Last edited by BenKenobi; Aug 25, 2020 at 07:39 AM.
Reason: Just a PS
the larger connectors I can figure out but buying a load of injector connectors only to find out they don't fit isn't on the agenda - I have found numerous but so far none inspire confidence.
I like the way you've done A and B banks, and the added numbering - that's neat. I hadn't thought of that but it is now on the list.
Given the improved cable technology around suitable for the temperatures that will be present it makes no sense to use PVC sheathed cables under the bonnet / hood.
Yup, lots of good choices readily available. There's no good reason not to take advantage of them. I use some high-temp wire that I bought years and years ago from (I think) Painless Wiring. I can't remember the spec at the moment but it's been fine. It came in 50 foot spools so I've made several harnesses and still have some left over!
That said.....
IMO the greatest benefit comes from re-routing the harness along the fuel rail so it isn't in direct contact with the engine. If your plans include clamping the harness against the engine (as originally done) then the premium-spec wire becomes even more important!
I intend to re-route where possible to clean up the valley as much as I can, including space in and around the AC compressor and the space at the back of the engine. I'll probably strap to the underside and actually create two harness one for A and one for B, I do intend to look at the ignition stuff too, a lot of the other things seem to be simple spades. I need to sit with a beer or two and just look into the bay and make mental pictures of possible solutions (nothing worse than planning a solution only to realise it won't work in reality once you try). The current cables are so hard that I'm reluctant to disturb anything at the moment because this car is too heavy to push !!
i would also suggest a ' wire frame ' bent to the route you intend , as this will ensure cable lengths plus some ' slack ' is there from the beginning, if anything, i found mine was a little on the tight side, but still fine, but would have rather it be a little longer in places , but it was first attempt and no one else had made one at that point in time to advise or guide
as for the connectors, i bought Bosch as you mention
this was the state of my old loom on removal ( s make the replacement first, lol )
I semi intend to do this the same way that I saw harness's assembled at rists wire and cable in my youth (don't think they exist anymore but they are likely the ones that made the originals).
Essentially it is a board with a layout and pins / dowel pegs at junctions, I'd build the board from measurement and the old harness, you can then assemble the harness on the board and apply sleeve etc on the board - we shall see how well this plan works. Where the connectors go there were two pins / nails that cables went through - I cannot find any pictures unfortunately - if I do I'll post one up. I reckon I could probably make something using pegboard which could be a universal wiring frame.
be aware, there are multiple connections to be made ' inside the loom ' as the injectors fire in groups of 3 and use a common return per group , so there are joints inside the looms ( look at injector #6 , it joins to injectors #4 & #2 as well )
hope this helps
BB
Last edited by Brake buster; Aug 25, 2020 at 11:22 AM.
Isn't that an efficient way to wire - sarcasm intended - just how many potential points of failure !!, splices in wiring harnesses were strictly a repair thing never a design thing when I did my apprenticeship ... this would have been better if the cables were spliced at the terminations in the injector connectors - may need to drop to 18 or 20AWG to achieve this though - can't see why these would need 16AWG anyhow. I suppose you could carefully do some sort of resection on the sheath and do a twist and bind it all together with adhesive lined heat shrink but I'm not a fan.
The through splices I've seen are ugly and bulky, for reliabilities sake in high vabration environments soldered joints should be avoided as there is a stress point created where the solder ends,
Wasn't a criticism of the information or its provision, more questioning a design decision, I do appreciate the info because I didn't know this so would probably have screwed up without realising - I hadn't planned to dismantle the old harness.
For what it is worth the firing of multiple injectors for one cylinder has never sat right with me either - first encountered this on a VW Scirocco GTII and a Range Rover - early fuel injeciton - how far things have come.
They are fine, but the problem I had is I had to trim the connector down in order for it to clear the metal plate which holds down each injector & allow it to fully seat on the injector plug. It's not a problem, as that wire release catch remains on the connector, & holds it in place against this metal plate, & i'd say they are still better than the OEM attachment method of frail plastic bits that fall apart in the sun, but it's obvious that they are technically not the correct ones to use.
I wired mine for full sequential injection to future proof, then made a short adaptor piece from the new 16 pin connector, to the old 8pin to convert to batch firing,.
That's an interesting idea, not entirely sure how you would convert this engine to full sequential although it couldn't hurt its addiction to unleaded - or its emissions.
There are sequential EFI kits available for older cars but the costs aren't insignificant and I've not found one for a 12 cylinder.