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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 07:02 PM
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Default Jack Stands

Hi,
I need to buy jack stands to store my car for the winter. You already know that my car weighs 3700 lbs (1.67 tons) and I was wondering what specs I should be looking for. If I get a pair (yes, I'll get 2 pairs) that is rated at 2 tons, is this 2 ton for each jack stand, 2 jack stands or 4 jack stands?
Thanks,
Jomo
 
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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All of the jack stands that I've seen are rated for a pair (2 stands).
 
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 07:41 PM
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Yeah, usually 2 ton stands are 1 ton per stand. Under stand that it i okay to have the car jacked up at the side for something, using only a single stand, because only a percentage of the cars weight is on that jackstand.

so if you buy a full set that hass a rating up to 4 tons with a 2 ton car on it. Just look at how they are constructed. I have bought some decent ones at harbor freight for the price, I have also used some pretty cheesy looking craftsman stands, which are similar to the big red brand and relabled GM jack stands.

The top part is solid metal, so don't worry about it much, really just look at the thickness and welding on the base. a cheap stand is 1000x better than no stand, and you usually don't need to worry about them much.
You may want to consider the shape of the top though. Personally, I really dislike when they have a deep groove cut in them, but to each his own.

If you look at big red, craftsman, torin, GM, duralast, harbor freight, etc they are almost all exactly the same. I would just buy the harbor freight ones and maybe a set of pads in case you ever need them.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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This is going to sound wrong, but here it is.

I use cinder blocks. Yes, cinder blocks. Two for each corner under the jacking points, flat side. They did fine last winter, plan to do the same this winter. I do the same with my much heavier Suburban, has worked thus far. I let the air out of the tires as well because...I am under the impression it's better for the tires not the be under pressure for a while for no reason.

So to review: Morris gets the red - neck treatment in the winter when snow keeps the cat inside.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 09:43 PM
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Buy the bigger jack stands. If they are rated for 1000lb each then you are at 95% of capacity. If you get in the car or fill fuel tank then you have exceeded capacity.
Pretty scary if you have to go under car. I know its for storage only but you cant be too careful when it comes to safety.
Cinder block scare me because they can crack and crumble. Wood blocks would be better.
My 2 cents worth
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Eskr
This is going to sound wrong, but here it is.

I use cinder blocks. Yes, cinder blocks. Two for each corner under the jacking points, flat side. They did fine last winter, plan to do the same this winter. I do the same with my much heavier Suburban, has worked thus far. I let the air out of the tires as well because...I am under the impression it's better for the tires not the be under pressure for a while for no reason.

So to review: Morris gets the red - neck treatment in the winter when snow keeps the cat inside.

There isn't too much wrong with the blocks but you are *hehe* flat wrong about the tires. You are putting WAY more stress on them by deflating them. Much more prone to developing flat spots where the rim is pressing them and more importantly you are stressing the hell out of the weakest part of the tire, the sidewall. Think about what the sidewall does when it is inflated...it sits with 30 psi of pressure against it. Think about letting the air out. It is flexed and stretch all sorts of ways with all the weight of the car on it instead of the thicker out tread of the tire!

have you ever seen a worn out dried tire with cracks along the sidewall? Imagine pressing and stretching on that, it is what is happening to your deflated tires.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 01:39 AM
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BC XJ, have you seen 1 ton sets somewhere before?? The lowest I have ever seen was 1 and 3/4 which still comes out to nearly twice the rating necessary for the car.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Eskr
This is going to sound wrong, but here it is.

I use cinder blocks. Yes, cinder blocks.
Nothing wrong with that as long as you are not getting underneath the vehicle ... and you don't care if the vehicle drops in the event the cinder block shatters.

To all readers who come along in the future: cinder blocks have a nasty habit of shattering under stress. Just watch a bricklayer can break a cinder block by just tapping on the cinder block with a mason's hammer.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 03:28 AM
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I think it mostly about the load being distributed. Cinder blocks are rated for 1800 PSI. I don't know the physics behind stresses, but my girlfriend knows stresses and concrete design, she is about to graduate civil engineering school.

If you want me to try and explain how it is possible to break a cinder block with a hammer but the fact you can still sit a car on it, I will try to get her to explain it to me.

I just think you are oversimplifying. Sort of like saying you can press a brake pedal with your foot, so how can the power of your foot be strong enough to hold back a 2 ton car? I would also note that it is important to orient the blocks the correct way. Many people lie the flat side on the ground and car because it seems like a nice flat surface, but you are greatly decreasing the strength and spread of the load.

not saying i recommend blocks, but they should be used correctly if necessary and a block is better than a jack alone. Even when I am using stands I leave the jack just barely let down to catch the car if something were to happen.

Jackstands can be had for $50 for a set of four. My life is certainly worth more than $50, definitely a must have
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 07:06 AM
  #10  
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I have 2 sets of stands, and 2 sets of ramps I use for service. For storage, either will work, BUT, i throw a bottle jack with a block of wood under the rear subframe to take the load off of the cradle bushes.
Don't want to walk out and see the entire rear assembly on the floor! :-0
Pete
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #11  
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I have 4 pair (8 jack stands) of these. I wouldn't think of getting under a car without them.

6 Ton Jack Stand Set
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sidescrollin
Yeah, usually 2 ton stands are 1 ton per stand. Under stand that it i okay to have the car jacked up at the side for something, using only a single stand, because only a percentage of the cars weight is on that jackstand.

so if you buy a full set that hass a rating up to 4 tons with a 2 ton car on it. Just look at how they are constructed. I have bought some decent ones at harbor freight for the price, I have also used some pretty cheesy looking craftsman stands, which are similar to the big red brand and relabled GM jack stands.

The top part is solid metal, so don't worry about it much, really just look at the thickness and welding on the base. a cheap stand is 1000x better than no stand, and you usually don't need to worry about them much.
You may want to consider the shape of the top though. Personally, I really dislike when they have a deep groove cut in them, but to each his own.

If you look at big red, craftsman, torin, GM, duralast, harbor freight, etc they are almost all exactly the same. I would just buy the harbor freight ones and maybe a set of pads in case you ever need them.
Harbor Freight has a sale coming up. They will have a set of two 3 ton jacks on sale for $18.88. The sale is Nov. 28,29,30. Item# 38846. I've had my eye on them for a few weeks.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Even
Harbor Freight has a sale coming up. They will have a set of two 3 ton jacks on sale for $18.88. The sale is Nov. 28,29,30. Item# 38846. I've had my eye on them for a few weeks.
Are you by chance a member of Harbor Freight's "inside track" club?
Reason I'm asking, that price isn't coming up for me ... it's showing $24.99 for a set. Checked all my email sale flyers and etc., no joy.

I have no local HFC, but coincidentally will be passing by one Thursday while visiting family. If you have a web link you would share, I might pick up a set of those smaller stands. I have a bunch of the larger ones, but I'm fixin' to get into full resto mode on a Mk X, and I'm sure a small set would come in handy at some point.

Regards, Retro
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Eskr
This is going to sound wrong, but here it is.

I use cinder blocks. Yes, cinder blocks. Two for each corner under the jacking points, flat side. They did fine last winter, plan to do the same this winter. I do the same with my much heavier Suburban, has worked thus far. I let the air out of the tires as well because...I am under the impression it's better for the tires not the be under pressure for a while for no reason.

So to review: Morris gets the red - neck treatment in the winter when snow keeps the cat inside.

Concrete blocks aka cinder blocks are strongest when upright not laying down flat,having said that no way would I get under a car weighing 4000lbs supported by blocks. I think to much of my wife's husband to do something that careless. Hope you have plenty of life insurance for the survivors.

There used to be a product called cinder block and they were not as strong as today's modern concrete block.

Must have hit the thank you butten by mistake.
 

Last edited by swayne; Oct 28, 2014 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 09:06 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by retromotors
Are you by chance a member of Harbor Freight's "inside track" club?
Reason I'm asking, that price isn't coming up for me ... it's showing $24.99 for a set. Checked all my email sale flyers and etc., no joy.

I have no local HFC, but coincidentally will be passing by one Thursday while visiting family. If you have a web link you would share, I might pick up a set of those smaller stands. I have a bunch of the larger ones, but I'm fixin' to get into full resto mode on a Mk X, and I'm sure a small set would come in handy at some point.

Regards, Retro
I've been trying to attack h a picture of the add. It's proving a little difficult va my phone. If your really interested send me your email and I will send it that way. The sale is HB's Black Friday sale. Hopefully you will be passing by a store on those dates. Good luck!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 10:01 AM
  #16  
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I don't believe EsKr was speaking of leaving the car on the floor with flat tires. If I was storing a car for the winter, I might deflate the tires to 15 psi. Jack stands of any type will hold at least 1,000 lbs. I have not heard anyone say that the 1.5, 2 or 3 ton limit on stands meant a pair of them.
Putting a support under the diff cage may be a good idea for that would take some of the strain off the mounts.
RagJag
 
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