Jaguar xjs 1985
#21
09-07-2017, 07:01 AM
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You said that it's normal but I saw that the air pump is connected to air cleaner and I found this i information on internet, maybe the problems is in air pump.
(One of the first symptoms of a bad or failing smog pump is a rough running engine. When a smog pump fails the finely tuned air-fuel ratios can be upset, and it will negatively affect the performance of the engine. The engine may have trouble idling, and may drop in engine speed, or stall when the pedal is pressed)
thanks.
Ion
(One of the first symptoms of a bad or failing smog pump is a rough running engine. When a smog pump fails the finely tuned air-fuel ratios can be upset, and it will negatively affect the performance of the engine. The engine may have trouble idling, and may drop in engine speed, or stall when the pedal is pressed)
thanks.
Ion
#22
09-07-2017, 07:51 AM
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#23
09-07-2017, 07:59 AM
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Ok. Then here is something, I disconnect the accelerator system separately and when I push the accelerator on driver side the rpm going up a little but after I hear something like explosions in exhaust system and it tyrns off, but when I push accelerator on passenger side, engine just turns off.
thanks.
Ion
thanks.
Ion
#24
09-09-2017, 06:56 PM
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It stayed running with the fuel pump wired directly to the battery? Which post of the pump did you connect to the battery, negative or positive?
"+" voltage to the pump comes from the pump relay. If you connected the pump to the "+" battery post and the engine stayed running then you need to find out why the relay isn't supplying 12v "+" to the pump.
Do you have a 12volt test light?
Cheers
DD
"+" voltage to the pump comes from the pump relay. If you connected the pump to the "+" battery post and the engine stayed running then you need to find out why the relay isn't supplying 12v "+" to the pump.
Do you have a 12volt test light?
Cheers
DD
I measure the presure in fuel injection system.
38psi when engine it's on.
48psi when fuel pump is on and engine off.
and when I turn off the engine presure goes down from 38 to 15 psi in one second, an next 5-10 second does down completely.
is that ok?!
thanks.
Ion
#25
09-10-2017, 05:16 PM
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Where is this measurement taken? Should be between fuel rail and port fuel pressure regulator.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
#26
09-10-2017, 05:40 PM
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Where is this measurement taken? Should be between fuel rail and port fuel pressure regulator.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
I'm waiting for a new fuel pump, but anyway I don't like that the presure is going down on fuel rails, because I checked every injector twice and no one had a leak.
thanks.
Ion
#27
09-13-2017, 10:01 PM
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Where is this measurement taken? Should be between fuel rail and port fuel pressure regulator.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
This pressure is a little high, but should run the car.
Fuel pressure should not drop quickly. If it does, and no leaks are present in any lines, then either the fuel pump check valve is bad, or an injector is not seating and is leaking fuel into the intake.
I'd swap the fuel pump. They are not expensive and you can get them at most parts stores. Check your fuel pressure again with the new pump. If you still have a quick leak down then I'd pull the fuel rail to check for a leaking injector.
thanks.
Ion
#28
09-17-2017, 10:01 AM
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Hi. Today I changed fuel pump and the problem still persists. I can tell one thing what I don't like. Like I said I disconnect accelerator system separately and when I pus the accelerator on driver side the rpm going up...but on the passenger side if I push...it turns off.. can somebody explain me why it turns off?
thanks.
Ion
thanks.
Ion
Hmmmm.
I'm not sure why ....and I'm not sure it's important to know why. I'm not sure if this discovery has any bearing on your original problem. Let's hear what others have to say on that.
I know from past experience that if the LH and RH throttles are not synchronized the engine will run badly. I'd attach both throttle linkages and make sure the throttles open smoothly and evenly, as intended and, for the time being at least, move on to something else.
Okay, back to the beginning.....
The original problem was that the engine would run but then die if the throttle was opened. If this is accompanied by chugging and black smoke/heavy exhaust smell it suggests over fueling. If it cuts off cleanly it suggests lack of fuel. You haven't mentioned black smoke and chugging so let's run with lack of fuel.
Lack of fuel can be caused by.....
1) Inadequate fuel supply. But you've replaced the pump and direct-wired it to eliminate a possible problem with the control circuit. And, if I understand correctly, it sounds like you enough fuel pressure.
2) Incorrect operation of the injectors so that fuel is not being injected into the cylinders in response and proportion to the incoming air from the open throttles.
I'd assume, for the moment at least, that #2 is true and methodically check and eliminate all the possibilities. Sometimes that the only choice.
Personally, I'd check the TPS- throttle position sensor. It 'tells' the ECU that the throttle is being opened so that fuel metering can be increased. This is needed because the vacuum operated manifold pressure sensor (the main input in fuel metering, located inside the ECU) is slower responding. The TPS signal, however, is instantaneous, to cover that transition period until the pressure sensor can catch up.
The TPS is checked by monitoring voltage as the throttle is opened. You want to see about .32-.36v at idle and 4.5v -4.8v at wide open throttle and, most importantly, no dead spots when the throttle is slowly opened. Voltage is measured by probing the red and yellow wires at the TPS, key on, engine off. The TPS connector must remain plugged-in.
There are many other things to check. The TPS is just a jumping-off point. If it checks out OK then move on to something else.
Cheers
DD
#29
09-18-2017, 07:07 PM
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Hmmmm.
I'm not sure why ....and I'm not sure it's important to know why. I'm not sure if this discovery has any bearing on your original problem. Let's hear what others have to say on that.
I know from past experience that if the LH and RH throttles are not synchronized the engine will run badly. I'd attach both throttle linkages and make sure the throttles open smoothly and evenly, as intended and, for the time being at least, move on to something else.
Okay, back to the beginning.....
The original problem was that the engine would run but then die if the throttle was opened. If this is accompanied by chugging and black smoke/heavy exhaust smell it suggests over fueling. If it cuts off cleanly it suggests lack of fuel. You haven't mentioned black smoke and chugging so let's run with lack of fuel.
Lack of fuel can be caused by.....
1) Inadequate fuel supply. But you've replaced the pump and direct-wired it to eliminate a possible problem with the control circuit. And, if I understand correctly, it sounds like you enough fuel pressure.
2) Incorrect operation of the injectors so that fuel is not being injected into the cylinders in response and proportion to the incoming air from the open throttles.
I'd assume, for the moment at least, that #2 is true and methodically check and eliminate all the possibilities. Sometimes that the only choice.
Personally, I'd check the TPS- throttle position sensor. It 'tells' the ECU that the throttle is being opened so that fuel metering can be increased. This is needed because the vacuum operated manifold pressure sensor (the main input in fuel metering, located inside the ECU) is slower responding. The TPS signal, however, is instantaneous, to cover that transition period until the pressure sensor can catch up.
The TPS is checked by monitoring voltage as the throttle is opened. You want to see about .32-.36v at idle and 4.5v -4.8v at wide open throttle and, most importantly, no dead spots when the throttle is slowly opened. Voltage is measured by probing the red and yellow wires at the TPS, key on, engine off. The TPS connector must remain plugged-in.
There are many other things to check. The TPS is just a jumping-off point. If it checks out OK then move on to something else.
Cheers
DD
I'm not sure why ....and I'm not sure it's important to know why. I'm not sure if this discovery has any bearing on your original problem. Let's hear what others have to say on that.
I know from past experience that if the LH and RH throttles are not synchronized the engine will run badly. I'd attach both throttle linkages and make sure the throttles open smoothly and evenly, as intended and, for the time being at least, move on to something else.
Okay, back to the beginning.....
The original problem was that the engine would run but then die if the throttle was opened. If this is accompanied by chugging and black smoke/heavy exhaust smell it suggests over fueling. If it cuts off cleanly it suggests lack of fuel. You haven't mentioned black smoke and chugging so let's run with lack of fuel.
Lack of fuel can be caused by.....
1) Inadequate fuel supply. But you've replaced the pump and direct-wired it to eliminate a possible problem with the control circuit. And, if I understand correctly, it sounds like you enough fuel pressure.
2) Incorrect operation of the injectors so that fuel is not being injected into the cylinders in response and proportion to the incoming air from the open throttles.
I'd assume, for the moment at least, that #2 is true and methodically check and eliminate all the possibilities. Sometimes that the only choice.
Personally, I'd check the TPS- throttle position sensor. It 'tells' the ECU that the throttle is being opened so that fuel metering can be increased. This is needed because the vacuum operated manifold pressure sensor (the main input in fuel metering, located inside the ECU) is slower responding. The TPS signal, however, is instantaneous, to cover that transition period until the pressure sensor can catch up.
The TPS is checked by monitoring voltage as the throttle is opened. You want to see about .32-.36v at idle and 4.5v -4.8v at wide open throttle and, most importantly, no dead spots when the throttle is slowly opened. Voltage is measured by probing the red and yellow wires at the TPS, key on, engine off. The TPS connector must remain plugged-in.
There are many other things to check. The TPS is just a jumping-off point. If it checks out OK then move on to something else.
Cheers
DD
I measured the TPS voltage, I turned key on.. engine off, from the start is .21 v after when I opened the throttle slowly, voltage increase to 4.66 v. Is there problem if ia .21 v just when the throttle is not opened?
thanks.
Ion
#30
09-18-2017, 07:26 PM
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Hmmmm.
I'm not sure why ....and I'm not sure it's important to know why. I'm not sure if this discovery has any bearing on your original problem. Let's hear what others have to say on that.
I know from past experience that if the LH and RH throttles are not synchronized the engine will run badly. I'd attach both throttle linkages and make sure the throttles open smoothly and evenly, as intended and, for the time being at least, move on to something else.
Okay, back to the beginning.....
The original problem was that the engine would run but then die if the throttle was opened. If this is accompanied by chugging and black smoke/heavy exhaust smell it suggests over fueling. If it cuts off cleanly it suggests lack of fuel. You haven't mentioned black smoke and chugging so let's run with lack of fuel.
Lack of fuel can be caused by.....
1) Inadequate fuel supply. But you've replaced the pump and direct-wired it to eliminate a possible problem with the control circuit. And, if I understand correctly, it sounds like you enough fuel pressure.
2) Incorrect operation of the injectors so that fuel is not being injected into the cylinders in response and proportion to the incoming air from the open throttles.
I'd assume, for the moment at least, that #2 is true and methodically check and eliminate all the possibilities. Sometimes that the only choice.
Personally, I'd check the TPS- throttle position sensor. It 'tells' the ECU that the throttle is being opened so that fuel metering can be increased. This is needed because the vacuum operated manifold pressure sensor (the main input in fuel metering, located inside the ECU) is slower responding. The TPS signal, however, is instantaneous, to cover that transition period until the pressure sensor can catch up.
The TPS is checked by monitoring voltage as the throttle is opened. You want to see about .32-.36v at idle and 4.5v -4.8v at wide open throttle and, most importantly, no dead spots when the throttle is slowly opened. Voltage is measured by probing the red and yellow wires at the TPS, key on, engine off. The TPS connector must remain plugged-in.
There are many other things to check. The TPS is just a jumping-off point. If it checks out OK then move on to something else.
Cheers
DD
I'm not sure why ....and I'm not sure it's important to know why. I'm not sure if this discovery has any bearing on your original problem. Let's hear what others have to say on that.
I know from past experience that if the LH and RH throttles are not synchronized the engine will run badly. I'd attach both throttle linkages and make sure the throttles open smoothly and evenly, as intended and, for the time being at least, move on to something else.
Okay, back to the beginning.....
The original problem was that the engine would run but then die if the throttle was opened. If this is accompanied by chugging and black smoke/heavy exhaust smell it suggests over fueling. If it cuts off cleanly it suggests lack of fuel. You haven't mentioned black smoke and chugging so let's run with lack of fuel.
Lack of fuel can be caused by.....
1) Inadequate fuel supply. But you've replaced the pump and direct-wired it to eliminate a possible problem with the control circuit. And, if I understand correctly, it sounds like you enough fuel pressure.
2) Incorrect operation of the injectors so that fuel is not being injected into the cylinders in response and proportion to the incoming air from the open throttles.
I'd assume, for the moment at least, that #2 is true and methodically check and eliminate all the possibilities. Sometimes that the only choice.
Personally, I'd check the TPS- throttle position sensor. It 'tells' the ECU that the throttle is being opened so that fuel metering can be increased. This is needed because the vacuum operated manifold pressure sensor (the main input in fuel metering, located inside the ECU) is slower responding. The TPS signal, however, is instantaneous, to cover that transition period until the pressure sensor can catch up.
The TPS is checked by monitoring voltage as the throttle is opened. You want to see about .32-.36v at idle and 4.5v -4.8v at wide open throttle and, most importantly, no dead spots when the throttle is slowly opened. Voltage is measured by probing the red and yellow wires at the TPS, key on, engine off. The TPS connector must remain plugged-in.
There are many other things to check. The TPS is just a jumping-off point. If it checks out OK then move on to something else.
Cheers
DD
I measured the TPS voltage, I turned key on.. engine off, from the start is .21 v after when I opened the throttle slowly, voltage increase to 4.66 v. Is there problem if ia .26 v just when the throttle is not opened?
thanks.
Ion
#32
09-18-2017, 10:26 PM
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I checked again and it is .31 v, but I saw a leak on crankshaft cylinder 6A
I don't know, is that oil or something else, also on passenger side that metal air pipe have a small gap, do I have to fix that gap?
Thank you
Ion
#33
09-19-2017, 01:34 AM
Veteran Member
Ion
Please do not think me impolite; but in my view anyway, you have a decision to make. Do you want this cat to be a keeper and to be properly reliable? If the answer is Yes, then the first thing is to decide to be 100% methodical. You must go through each system in the car, examine it carefully and make it 100% right. This means, in no particular order:
Greg
Please do not think me impolite; but in my view anyway, you have a decision to make. Do you want this cat to be a keeper and to be properly reliable? If the answer is Yes, then the first thing is to decide to be 100% methodical. You must go through each system in the car, examine it carefully and make it 100% right. This means, in no particular order:
- Fuel system from tank to engine
- Radiator thermostats and cooling system
- Ignition system, plugs, HT leads, distributor, amplifier, coils, associated looms and sensors
- Brakes
- Suspension and steering
- All fluids
Greg
#34
09-19-2017, 07:29 AM
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