XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

LIVE Repair

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Old 03-28-2015, 06:22 AM
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Default LIVE Repair

I'll be attempting a rear cage drop in a 1987 HE XJS, the live cam will be on by 8:00a ny time, until whenever. There may be some choice language during the job, so please be warned. You can watch it in real time here
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:29 AM
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I fail to understand the "may be language".

THERE WILL BE LANGUAGE, trust me.

We also require "Clarkes Sitting Stool" for drinking and contemplating the next move to be included.

Have fun.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:22 AM
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good to see the master here, do the stabilizer arms pop off or what?
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtalkradio
good to see the master here, do the stabilizer arms pop off or what?
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-68339.html
I used one of these, but mine was from sears. Put the cam end into the hole and bash it sideways with a BFH.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:52 AM
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thanks, only thing I'm missing is live interactive audio, its called a rear radius arm, it does come off from the wishbone, crazy nut though 19mm with a shaved end to make clearance for the shock mount, amazing
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtalkradio
thanks, only thing I'm missing is live interactive audio, its called a rear radius arm, it does come off from the wishbone, crazy nut though 19mm with a shaved end to make clearance for the shock mount, amazing
I thought you were talking about the trailing arm which controls forward and backward movement of the cage. You use the pry bar to get the forward end of the trailing arm off the body, after taking out the long fine thread bolt.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:32 AM
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Emergency brake disconnect from cage?
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtalkradio
Emergency brake disconnect from cage?
I managed to lever the nipple out of the right hand caliper freeing the cable
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by texasscot

I managed to lever the nipple out of the right hand caliper freeing the cable
If you need some slack there's a nut and locking nut at the end of brake lever in a recess in floor in the car. Its used for getting the correct tension.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:54 AM
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The passenger side was cake, its the drivers side, I've decide to take the caliper off and it will come with it
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:54 AM
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Its out, phase 3 on the way
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:22 PM
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Thanks for watching today, parts ordered, work will resume Tuesday afternoon.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mrtalkradio
Thanks for watching today, parts ordered, work will resume Tuesday afternoon.
How long did it take to drop the Cage start to finish, as I might have to do mine.

Great job! very impressive!
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mrtalkradio
thanks, only thing I'm missing is live interactive audio, its called a rear radius arm, it does come off from the wishbone, crazy nut though 19mm with a shaved end to make clearance for the shock mount, amazing
Only the Poms could think of that one.

I drop them off the body, and deal with that nonsense on teh ground.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeblossom
How long did it take to drop the Cage start to finish, as I might have to do mine.

Great job! very impressive!
First time I did one, about 2 hours.

Now I have them on the ground inside an hour. The trailing arms to body are the time consumers sometimes. BFH, as in a Sledge hammer, does aid removal.
 
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
First time I did one, about 2 hours.

Now I have them on the ground inside an hour. The trailing arms to body are the time consumers sometimes. BFH, as in a Sledge hammer, does aid removal.
I think I'd be scared of doing some damage an ripping a hole in the floor!

Would it be as good to undo the Trailing Arm at the other end?

Providing the rubber bushes look ok.
 
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:35 AM
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Of course, but at some stage ther gotta come off.

I have had a few where I sprayed "penetrating oil" thru the gap at the top of the large bush and the body, so that it runs into that tapered snout, for about 2 weeks before doing the job, and they simply pop off.

If that snout pulls out of the floor, and Pommy cars do have that issue thanks to salt rust, a body shop that is half decent can reweld a snout fairly simply.
 
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:53 AM
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If you have the right tools, the forum up on a computer, and a helper under an hour.
You will run into snags here and there. If your nuts and bolts are rusted and the such could take 2 hours. The nuts holding the rotors on are probably the biggest challenge, they were for me anyway.
 
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:58 AM
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I'm not sure what a Jag shop or any other shop would charge to do this job. I'll venture anywhere from 90-150 an hour, plus parts.
I ordered rotors, pads and calipers for $660. I paid my assistant lunch, coffee and a 12 year old bottle of 110 proof Wild Turkey Bourbon. I've got 9 hours into the job so far. I probably have 5-6 hours remaining.
 
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Of course, but at some stage ther gotta come off.

I have had a few where I sprayed "penetrating oil" thru the gap at the top of the large bush and the body, so that it runs into that tapered snout, for about 2 weeks before doing the job, and they simply pop off.

If that snout pulls out of the floor, and Pommy cars do have that issue thanks to salt rust, a body shop that is half decent can reweld a snout fairly simply.
Cheers Grant

If I have to do that job, I will bear that in mind, though I reckon that what you can do in 2 hours will take me a couple of days.
 


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