Hi Bro

While doing some research at 'Orange Blossom Towers' I came across something interesting, as apparently in the Lucas Ignition Amplifier, there are Two Resistors which can be Tested without taking them out of the Unit.

And if one of them has failed then the Car won't Start.

Not being an Auto Electrician, I don't know how to Test them or Which one Stops the Car from Working if it fails.

That is all I can tell you from various snippets, I've picked up here and there which may be something or not.

But Grant would probably know.

 

Paul can you confirm - the car is starting but dying in a few seconds, if this is this correct then ignition is good..

 

Yes that is correct Warrjon. She starts and will die after about 2 secs.

Cheers O.B

Also today just for spits and giggles I swapped out the 6CU for the 16CU to make sure my ECU hadn't died or something. No. Same fault.

Put the 6CU back in for now until she is up and running.

Also just been going over all that wiring to the Amplifier and such. All looks good.

O.B is there a sure method I can test to make sure my Amp hasn't died without having one spare to substitute? Or would the car not even start if this was dead? It would be strange though as my Amp is mounted at the front in front of the radiator and I hadn't touched it for this project.

Also Greg mentioned about checking inside the dizzy for the hall effect coil that goes over to the Amp. Looks like I am diving under there next however if it this was dead would it start at all?....

 

Just got called to work.

Will catch up later.

 

WE HAVVVVVEVEEEEEEE LIFT OFFF!!!!!!!!



She runs she runs she runs!!! :icon_d ance-disco:

All those who placed their bets on that darn coax cable well you got it!

The splice near the amplifier ( mine is outside near the front of the radiator) was ok but still I soldered it up last night.

Now that goes back up to my firewall where there is another splice going to the OEM coax....that was a different story.

I followed your guys advice and checked continuity from the ignition amp coax wire all the way back to pin 18 on the ECU harness. I did this with the car switched off (obviously) and got my boy to earth it out. No continuity between pin 18 and earth. Bugger.

So that splice up near the firewall I started taking off the old heatshrink and tape. It seem to just come apart. Wasn't sure if that was me or it was already like it. Feeling like another false find...i just plugged it back in anyway and started the engine:



I turned the key and expected it to do the same but..wait.....what? That bloody engine is still running! What? I pumped the pedal two more times....vrooom....vrooom....what? This can't be?

My smile went from ear to ear as the boys came in garage wanting to know what the sound was. Both their eyes lit up when the saw the Blue Goose was alive! I ran her up to about 1/4 engine temp and then turned her off to write this post.

I have to go back now and clean up all the wiring and also solder that coax cable to make it ultra reliable.

Thank you guys so much for all your help. I could not have done it with out any of you!



WoOz, GinF, O.B, Warrjon and 34by151 via

 

If the amp was dead or anything in the ignition the car would not start.

It is a fueling problem. Or more to the point the ECU is not firing the injectors when cranking.

We know the ECU us firing the injectors ignition on (priming pulse). So from this we can assume the wiring is ok.

The ONLY way the ECU knows to pulse the injectors once per engine cycle is that shielded wire, the tach signal. Can you check continuity of the coax. Also is the coax grounded both ends or just one end.

OOPS I posted this from my phone and did not see your last post.

Great you got it fixed before heading back to sea.

 

TOLD YA IT WOULD BE SIMPLE.

These are SIMPLE cars.

That coax is a mongrel, I ditched mine in the engine bay years ago. I used standard wire, and picked up the OE coax just near the bulkhead connector near our gas pedal. Never had an issue with it since.

WELL BLOODY DONE.

Santa now has his chariot up and going.

 

WONDERFUL NEWS TO WAKE UP TO. Really well done Paul. And you know loads more about your car than you did before. No knowledge or experience is ever wasted, even though it might be painful to acquire!
It has made my day.
Greg

 

Well done Bro!

I am so pleased for you and know what a really great feeling it is, to get to that point where all hope is gone and then when you think you've run out of ideas you suddenly find the Solution.

So now the only thing left to do is to put in your new ECU and then you can go to Sea happy!

 

Guys I can't thank you all enough for all your help.

I would have posted sooner but I have been rip roaring around the town!

Just to back track:

Once I got her started I ran her up to normal operating temp and tried to reverse her out. No problems. A bit of forward and back in the garage. No probs. Loaded up the engine with the AC compressor and fan. No worries.

Looks like my previous issue with idle dropping under heat soak has been fixed also! (See https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eriods-168508/)
She didn't go below 750 RPM at idle. Yes! I was hoping all this work would fix this problem!

So now I was happy to upgrade the ECU:


Started her up. Seems ok. Then took her for a spin. Drove around the streets. Stopped her. Let her heatsoak. Took off again. No probs. Took her on the freeway. Zoooooom! Goes like a dream.

Came home and the young fella was so excited. He wanted me to take him to the park in the Blue Goose so and was itching to put it into Reverse and Drive for me! ( I think he missed the Blue Goose)


The first time she has been out in months!

 

Good on ya Paul, Now drive it lake ya stole it until you go back to work.
Are we going to see you boxing day at 34by151's (James) place, or the rest of your family without Dad ?

 

Option two Clarke. I will be

But have a beer or 4 for me mate!

 

Your Car looks drop dead Gorgeous Bro!

I knew you could fix her, it was never in doubt!

So Well done.