More alternator issues and Quest?
#1
More alternator issues and Quest?
My meter is reading 11 volts after start up. Then after 1 or 2 miles of driving I get a loud clicking or clanking noise and the meter jumps up to 14. Then everything is usually ok, around 13 or 14 for rest of drive.
What do you guys think, just replace/rebuild the alternator? I've never had a car that made this kind of sound from the alternator. It can be heard above the Radio. Anyone know the cause?
Thanks...Jimmy
What do you guys think, just replace/rebuild the alternator? I've never had a car that made this kind of sound from the alternator. It can be heard above the Radio. Anyone know the cause?
Thanks...Jimmy
#2
Even tho it is a rebuilt one, could be the bearings, or something else inside, sometimes a bad one makes it thru the rebuild process. I have one I put on a while back, and same thing on start up, 13V and when I rev up the engine/motor it jumps to 14V, I need to check mine, another thing is the connections are lose, or it could be the wrong amperage. But the loud clicking does not sound right. Hopefully one of the more experienced members will hop on and give their input
#3
#4
Stab in the dark, and its very late here.
The nut on the front is not tight, so the fan and pulley are slipping around.
The rubber dampened V pulley of the crankshaft has delaminated, and rattling around, and eventually it finds its "spot" and shuts up. This is the rear most V, and only drives the alternator.
Inside that front crank pulley is a tapered cone, they break, and 2 Woodruff keys, they shear, and they will/can make a terrible noise, but its generally a deep "thonk" type noise.
Told ya its late. I will dream about it and see what gives in the morning.
The nut on the front is not tight, so the fan and pulley are slipping around.
The rubber dampened V pulley of the crankshaft has delaminated, and rattling around, and eventually it finds its "spot" and shuts up. This is the rear most V, and only drives the alternator.
Inside that front crank pulley is a tapered cone, they break, and 2 Woodruff keys, they shear, and they will/can make a terrible noise, but its generally a deep "thonk" type noise.
Told ya its late. I will dream about it and see what gives in the morning.
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JayCee (03-08-2017)
#5
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Four thoughts.
1. I think Grant is on to a definite possible.
2. Remove the drive belt. Fire it up. Same noise? If so, not the alternator.
3. Now still with the belt off and the engine not running. Turn the alternator by hand.
Anything short of a free smooth spin denotes internal mechanical issues.
4. But, not always!! Way back, circa 1968, wifey decided she wanted to drive. Try as hard as shew could, the four on the floor Corvair Monza was beyond her. We went shopping and found a really nice 65 Monza on the used lot of the local GM dealer.
But, as it developed, odd things kept popping up. The drive train and ancillaries were far more experienced than the rest of the car!!! The alternator just quit. I removed it and because of innate curiousity, took it apart. Wear everywhere. Way beyond anything I'd ever seen. Swapped for a rebuild. That part OK. but many more issues followed !!
Carl
1. I think Grant is on to a definite possible.
2. Remove the drive belt. Fire it up. Same noise? If so, not the alternator.
3. Now still with the belt off and the engine not running. Turn the alternator by hand.
Anything short of a free smooth spin denotes internal mechanical issues.
4. But, not always!! Way back, circa 1968, wifey decided she wanted to drive. Try as hard as shew could, the four on the floor Corvair Monza was beyond her. We went shopping and found a really nice 65 Monza on the used lot of the local GM dealer.
But, as it developed, odd things kept popping up. The drive train and ancillaries were far more experienced than the rest of the car!!! The alternator just quit. I removed it and because of innate curiousity, took it apart. Wear everywhere. Way beyond anything I'd ever seen. Swapped for a rebuild. That part OK. but many more issues followed !!
Carl
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JayCee (03-08-2017)
#6
#7
As it was late when Grant posted, I noticed your car is a 6.0L
This car will have a ribbed belt for the Alternator and Jaguar did away with the cone and dual woodruff keys on the damper and went to a Chevy style push on.
With the car cold loosen the alternator belt enough to slip it off then spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding or sideways movement.
This car will have a ribbed belt for the Alternator and Jaguar did away with the cone and dual woodruff keys on the damper and went to a Chevy style push on.
With the car cold loosen the alternator belt enough to slip it off then spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding or sideways movement.
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#8
As it was late when Grant posted, I noticed your car is a 6.0L
This car will have a ribbed belt for the Alternator and Jaguar did away with the cone and dual woodruff keys on the damper and went to a Chevy style push on.
With the car cold loosen the alternator belt enough to slip it off then spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding or sideways movement.
This car will have a ribbed belt for the Alternator and Jaguar did away with the cone and dual woodruff keys on the damper and went to a Chevy style push on.
With the car cold loosen the alternator belt enough to slip it off then spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding or sideways movement.
Thanks...Jim
Last edited by JayCee; 03-14-2017 at 10:40 AM.
#9
I did a little further research and found that the ribbed pulley can break loose from the damper. Not uncommon evidently!
According to Kirby it usually will cause a squeal, that sounds like a loose belt. I don't see how this could make the "mechanical" noise that I am hearing. I will start by marking the pulleys and then see if they have slipped after a drive.
The alternator would be easier and cheaper...Oh Well!
Cheers...Jimmy
According to Kirby it usually will cause a squeal, that sounds like a loose belt. I don't see how this could make the "mechanical" noise that I am hearing. I will start by marking the pulleys and then see if they have slipped after a drive.
The alternator would be easier and cheaper...Oh Well!
Cheers...Jimmy
#10
Jaguar went to the ribbed belt with the change to 110amp alternator, my 89 has the ribbed belt.
My car has 260000km on it and the damper pulley has never been off and if it were loose the timing would be all over the place with the Marelli ignition. All 5.3L engines had the cone setup for the damper. The snout was changed on the 6.0L and is larger in diameter for the slip on damper.
Over tightening of the belt is probably the largest cause of the pulley breaking away, ribbed belts have less stretch than V belts.
Before you replace anything remove the belt from the alternator and spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding, if the belt has been over tightened then this could damage the alternator bearings.
My car has 260000km on it and the damper pulley has never been off and if it were loose the timing would be all over the place with the Marelli ignition. All 5.3L engines had the cone setup for the damper. The snout was changed on the 6.0L and is larger in diameter for the slip on damper.
Over tightening of the belt is probably the largest cause of the pulley breaking away, ribbed belts have less stretch than V belts.
Before you replace anything remove the belt from the alternator and spin the alternator pulley by hand to see if there is any binding, if the belt has been over tightened then this could damage the alternator bearings.
#11
[QUOTE=Grant Francis;1634669]Stab in the dark, and its very late here.
Inside that front crank pulley is a tapered cone, they break, and 2 Woodruff keys, they shear, and they will/can make a terrible noise, but its generally a deep "thonk" type noise.
The 6.0 liter did not use a tapered cone. It used a straight walled ( for want of a better term) bushing. If you are R and R the pulley, you will find the stock bolt is too short. I bought a longer one at the hardware store and used it to push the pulley down enough to use the stock bolt.
Inside that front crank pulley is a tapered cone, they break, and 2 Woodruff keys, they shear, and they will/can make a terrible noise, but its generally a deep "thonk" type noise.
The 6.0 liter did not use a tapered cone. It used a straight walled ( for want of a better term) bushing. If you are R and R the pulley, you will find the stock bolt is too short. I bought a longer one at the hardware store and used it to push the pulley down enough to use the stock bolt.
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JayCee (03-19-2017)
#12
Actually the 94 has a 120 Bosch alternator and the tapered cone was no longer used. Also the timing was no longer effected by a loose pulley.
I just took a drive after marking the pulleys with some white paint. The paint is no longer aligned, therefore the pulley is slipping on the damper. So now I have a big repair ahead of me, and have to figure out where to get a good pulley/damper.
Thanks...Jimmy
I just took a drive after marking the pulleys with some white paint. The paint is no longer aligned, therefore the pulley is slipping on the damper. So now I have a big repair ahead of me, and have to figure out where to get a good pulley/damper.
Thanks...Jimmy
#13
You're right I just went and looked at my 6.0L damper (sitting on my bench) the timing ring is fixed to the inner part of the damper so it can not move.
It will be the out part of the damper that is loose, the rubber has broken. If I were you I would try and find someone who rebuilds dampers and have yours rebuilt.
It will be the out part of the damper that is loose, the rubber has broken. If I were you I would try and find someone who rebuilds dampers and have yours rebuilt.
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JayCee (03-14-2017)
#14
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I've heard good things about Damperdoctor; never used them.
I've used Dale Manufacturing several times with excellent results.
new home page H.B.
Don't be put-off by the unglamorous web page.
Cheers
DD
I've used Dale Manufacturing several times with excellent results.
new home page H.B.
Don't be put-off by the unglamorous web page.
Cheers
DD
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JayCee (03-15-2017)
#16
I've heard good things about Damperdoctor; never used them.
I've used Dale Manufacturing several times with excellent results.
new home page H.B.
Don't be put-off by the unglamorous web page.
Cheers
DD
I've used Dale Manufacturing several times with excellent results.
new home page H.B.
Don't be put-off by the unglamorous web page.
Cheers
DD
I have to admit that with all the years I have been working on cars, I have never had to replace one. Not looking forward to it. I would love to hear if you have any "tips / tricks".
Thanks...Jimmy
#17
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Different cars, one being my X300/XJR
I have to admit that with all the years I have been working on cars, I have never had to replace one. Not looking forward to it. I would love to hear if you have any "tips / tricks".
Thanks...Jimmy
Thanks...Jimmy
If you can't break the damper bolt free by hand you can use the torque of the starter motor to do so. More on that later
Cheers
DD
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JayCee (03-15-2017)
#18
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