The pump on the passenger side is leaking and it began to leak heavily today. Am I screwed? Do I own a parts car now? Oh lawdy! I cant find any info on this. ANy help from you guys is greatly appreciated. My 1994 4.0 appreciates it too.

 

If leaking from unions may be a simple O-ring. But do remember to relieve any remaining pressure before starting to undo things. Use oil resistant rings.

If the pump is a goner send photo of pump/sphere and master cyl, not sure if you have the Teves setup or the later XJ40 setup.

 

It seems to be leaking from the black body unit at a union where it looks like it can be unbolted. This could be the motor or the pump itself. Any ideas as to whether or not it can be saved?

 

Its the black unit where its joined to the entire assembly. Any clues?

 

That is a Teves pump. Have you used DOT5 (silicone)? It doesn't like that. Use DOT4 only. I'd contact the breakers: Quite a few cars have had failed ABS and mostly it has been the combined control unit/master cylinder. Another option is to convert to the original non ABS vacummebooster system, many owners have done this. Once again a breaker or somebody local(ish) with a parts car?

The pump is a sealed unit but may be repairable, I have never had reason to take one apart. If you do not feel like trying it yourself you could try a local hydraulics repair shop/hose,fittings etc supplier.

At least until a year ago the Teves parts were available from Jaguar but rather expensive. GBP 2000 for the master cyl!

Tell us how it proceeds.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that this system was introduced in 1989, ref sources for parts. Buick Reatta and a few other GM cars from the same period used Teves as well although I haven't checked if the parts are identical. I would assume the pump is the same at least, you being in US that should help.

 

There was a change sometime in 93 from Teves Mk II to Teves Mk IV. Even though the pump was separate IIRC in both cases it may be different.

 

Okay, I picked up a good used pump from a good wrecker here in los angeles. the part comes from a low mileage wreck, same year as my car too, so I hope im good to go. Luckily plenty convertibles were sold here in socal so I didnt have to sell my soul for it. I picked up the complete pump assembly so a complete swap is my only job for tonight. Now..... Where do I start? Lol

 

I assume you have the worshop manual? It is a bit of a procedure so PM me if you haven't got it. Just as well to get one for future jobs though.

 

I just picked up the car so no workshop manual yet. Ive depressurized the system already. Now im gonna cover everything in order to avoid paint issues if any fluid leaks out. then ill start to remove the hose and hardline going to the pump. After I reinstall the new pump ill have to start the car. Once the pump fills up the accumulator, I shut it off, depressurize the system again and repeat til its bled. Right?

 

I should post an update. The Install was simple and went well. After a couple of days I noticed that the pump was contantly running, and stopping. So I replaced the accumulator with my old one since its 7 years old, but I'm kinda paranoid and I'm thinking I'll just order a new one. The reason why I got paranoid is, I started the car after a 2 day rest period, and the ANTI-LOCK and BRAKE lights, on the dash, didnt shut off till after 4-5 minutes. So I think a new one is in order. Whut do you guys think?

 

I would wait it out and keep an eye on it. If you have been working on it, sometimes the electronics are slow, in my experience. Real slow actually. Think 1994 pc... as long as the light is turning off I would not worry about it. Also maybe try cleaning the connector to the ABS Control Unit. This will cause the ABS light to come on. Might as well ween that out of the equation since its such an easy thing to do.

 

Simple test: Switch off and count how many times you can press the brake pedal before it goes hard. One or two: replace accu. 4-5: On it's way out, replace when you have the time. 10 or more: It's fine.

 

Per, On the other thread you were helping me with-no fluid to LF caliper, but full pressure to other three, I get two reps before the pedal goes rock hard. Can the accumulator cause my issue as well?

 

I would be surprised if that was the case. the accumulator's task is to ensure there is braking assistance whatever the circumstances including repeated hard application of the brakes. As long as there is enough capacity left in the system for two pedal presses the pressure is high enough to initially give correct operation of the entire system. OTOH, if the leak is in the "right" place it could give a pressure differential resulting in no pressure at all to the offending port. I would bide my time on that one till I have a known good master cyl/actuator in place.

 

Did the pump keep running? if so there could be air in the system.

Did you bleed the system? ABS is notoriously difficult to get all the air out.

I have just bled mine and here is a write up I did.

Jaguar XJS Restoration : How to bleed Jaguar XJS teves ABS

 

When I had come to the point of purging the air that might be in the lines to the wheels I simply used a compressor driven vacuum bleeder as I wanted to flush the system with lots of fresh fluid anyway. Has been perfect ever since.

 

I used both a pressure bleeder on the resivior and a vacum bleeder on the nipple, no fluid. I then went to pumping the brakes with the pressure and vacum bleeder both on, still nothing on the left front, barely a drop came out

 

Drove all weekend and then tried the pumping test. I think were good to go. 29 pumps before the pedal gets stiff. Thanks Per and everyone else who helped me.