No Climate Control Servo Action
#1
No Climate Control Action
Hello all,
Sometimes I wonder if certain features on these old jags ever worked right in the first place (i.e cruise control, heated seats, climate control)
It would seem that I have no servos or flaps or air mixing of any kind happening in my car. This is an '88 I'm talking about so it's got the newer style climate control with the push/pull temp knob.
The fan speed knob generates three fan speeds (Low,Norm,High) but I get no airflow anywhere. It's like the blower motors are blowing against all closed flaps.
No adjustment of the temp knob elicits any response nor does changing modes between manual and auto.
I know very little about the vast intracicies of the system in this car and right now I would be satisfied with getting any air (cold or hot) to blow out of the centre vents.
Besides the fans the whole things basically dead.
First steps to bring back the servo and climate control logic?
Note: The temp knob freely rotates 360 degrees. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that?
Sometimes I wonder if certain features on these old jags ever worked right in the first place (i.e cruise control, heated seats, climate control)
It would seem that I have no servos or flaps or air mixing of any kind happening in my car. This is an '88 I'm talking about so it's got the newer style climate control with the push/pull temp knob.
The fan speed knob generates three fan speeds (Low,Norm,High) but I get no airflow anywhere. It's like the blower motors are blowing against all closed flaps.
No adjustment of the temp knob elicits any response nor does changing modes between manual and auto.
I know very little about the vast intracicies of the system in this car and right now I would be satisfied with getting any air (cold or hot) to blow out of the centre vents.
Besides the fans the whole things basically dead.
First steps to bring back the servo and climate control logic?
Note: The temp knob freely rotates 360 degrees. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that?
Last edited by EcbJag; 11-04-2014 at 02:04 AM.
#2
OK, my Delonair 3 experience is a tad limited, but here goes.
The temp knob is 180deg, thats all, so there is an issue that is a MUST fix
There is a fuse, in a plastic holder up above the RH console vent, where the drivers Left knee would be in our RHD cars (imagination needed here), and it is a PAIN to get at. That sucker will kill the servos with conviction. I use a 10 amp in there.
On the LH side of the workings, behind the 4 pack fan relay pack is another inline fuse, but usually the fans are inop if it blows.
The temp knob is 180deg, thats all, so there is an issue that is a MUST fix
There is a fuse, in a plastic holder up above the RH console vent, where the drivers Left knee would be in our RHD cars (imagination needed here), and it is a PAIN to get at. That sucker will kill the servos with conviction. I use a 10 amp in there.
On the LH side of the workings, behind the 4 pack fan relay pack is another inline fuse, but usually the fans are inop if it blows.
#3
Spent better part of an hour looking for the temp potentiometer on the web. It looks like its part number JLM1166 can anyone confirm?
I'll check fuses tomorrow and get back thank you Grant!
On a most likely unrelated sidenote, when I got the car the vacuum hose meant for the heater valve was connected to the RH intake manifold next to the vacuum advance hose for the dist. This resulted in a "hissing" noise in the cabin when throttle was applied. I put a plug on the air manifold hole and put said hose back where it belonged on the heater valve. No more hissing but one has to wonder why someone did this in the first place
I'll check fuses tomorrow and get back thank you Grant!
On a most likely unrelated sidenote, when I got the car the vacuum hose meant for the heater valve was connected to the RH intake manifold next to the vacuum advance hose for the dist. This resulted in a "hissing" noise in the cabin when throttle was applied. I put a plug on the air manifold hole and put said hose back where it belonged on the heater valve. No more hissing but one has to wonder why someone did this in the first place
Last edited by EcbJag; 11-05-2014 at 12:47 AM.
#4
On a most likely unrelated sidenote, when I got the car the vacuum hose meant for the heater valve was connected to the RH intake manifold next to the vacuum advance hose for the dist. This resulted in a "hissing" noise in the cabin when throttle was applied. I put a plug on the air manifold hole and put said hose back where it belonged on the heater valve. No more hissing but one has to wonder why someone did this in the first place
Check if the vac reservoir is connected to the manifold, if not, no flap action, most likely. The vac reservoir should have two pipes going to it. One, direct from the manifold, and the other comes to it from the cabin. A third pipe is also there but goes straight to the heater valve from the cabin.
Greg
#5
I spent a great deal of time repairing my DA Mk111 and it still has issues.
First thing I would check is for teltail signs of coolant around the controller, located on the RH side of the HVAC unit. Mine has had coolant leak on it and caused one solenoid driver to fail, I have replaced this transistor but the unit is now intermittent. I suspect the problem is in the PCB.
Doug had a great fault finding guide (which I lost in a hard drive crash) for the DA Mk111. It's probably on this site somewhere. Search for it as it will assist you to isolate the problems to specific areas.
#6
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Delanair Mk III Testing/Diagnostic Guide
Here's the guide.
Lots of electrical tests which might be worse than meaningless if the wiring connectors and grounds are corroded....which in my experience they often are....and cleaning them might well restore proper operation.
And don't forget the little plastic inserts, mentioned at the very beginning, to isolate the ECU pins
Cheers
DD
Lots of electrical tests which might be worse than meaningless if the wiring connectors and grounds are corroded....which in my experience they often are....and cleaning them might well restore proper operation.
And don't forget the little plastic inserts, mentioned at the very beginning, to isolate the ECU pins
Cheers
DD
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