Hello all. Its been a while sins ive posted any thing just been lurking around read posts. Ive spent the last two mounts replacing all the fuel lines, injection harness , wires, plugs, coils ect. Now that ive done all this it wont start im getting fuel just no spark tested the coils that I just replaced all are good. Ive traced it back to the white wire that that gives the power to the coil put my test light up to it quick flash one time and that was it. Put my multimeter up to it nothing no volts at all. I had a problem before when the car would crank but wouldnt start when the car was hot dont know if that has any thing to do with it. the cars been siting in my garage for 3 mounts or so ran when i parked it. So I wont to know my next move what to check next any input would be appreciated.
Thanks Luke

it a early 89 with lucus

 

First things first.

You MUST HAVE 12v to the +ve post of the centre coil with the ignition ON. If you aint got that, the rest is useless. The main cause of lack of volts here is the electrical section of the ignition switch, well documented for many years as an issue.

That supply then supplies the amp (LH inlet manifold) with its 12v needs, and that would explain the no spark, and probably the issues you were having prior to this 3 months workout.

Once you got 12v to that terminal, it should be fine.

 

thanks for the reply
ok so how would i checked the ignition switch make sure its the problem be for i spend the money replacing it and how do you remove the dam thing i tried putting an alien key in the small hole on top just behind the key face with the key in the run position and it didn't budge.

 

Testing is fairly simple.

Just down from the switch (about 4") is the rubbery connector for the loom. You will find a solid Brown wire in the "car loom" section, and that is 12v HOT (as in LIVE at all times the battery is connected), so using a volt meter, find that one. Now turn the IGN switch to position 1, which is accessories, and probe the other wires until the live one is found, note the colour, now go to IGN on (position 2), and find that one. The position 1 wire will stay live in the IGN position. All 3 wires should read battery voltage when probed. The wire you have remaining is the START wire. So probe that wire, turn the switch to the start position, battery voltage SHOULD be seen on the DVM. If that is so, the switch is FINE. If it as more than HALF a volt down then the switch is certainly starting to go hissy. However, IF the starter motor starts to crank, that voltage will drop, but should NOT drop lower than about 11v.

removing the electrical section is fun at best. With your head firmly planted on the brake pedal, looking at the rear of the assembly you will see a SMALL philips headed screw on the circumference of the mechanical section, at about the 4 o'clock position. That is the screw you need to remove to allow the electrical section to simply slide out of the mechanical section.

I have snapped my "spare" electrical section and if you look closely the TINY screw holes are plainly visible. Only ONE is used, so maybe the 2 are for when they moved that switch to the LH side, coz the RH sided screw would be a NO GO on the LH side of the column.

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ive got a spare amp for sale.