Per intro, my wife loves her Jag, but numerous problems over past 1-2 years. Saw good threads that seem to do a good job of listing solutions, part #'s and costs, but not reasonable labor. We have 2 dealerships within range: place she bought is a very significant drive, nearer one does not fulfill manufacturer's obligation for service (The Collection, Coral Gables, should be denied franchises.) Other options have been all over the board in terms of service and costs, so seeking to go in forearmed.

Problems:
- Three new batteries in past year, all dying in minimal time;
- Brake, turn lights undependable;
- P0302
- P0133

Garages have given us quotes in excess of $1,000 to replace cyl 2 sparks, alternator, etc., as proposed solutions to above. Even after reading about need to remove manifold, etc., that seems like highway robbery. Opinions? Leads on reliable, reasonable cost mechanics in SW Miami?

 

If you don't DIY, like me, then it's imperative that you find a good local mechanic who really knows what he's doing, is willing to install parts that you've sourced yourself, and doesn't charge you an arm and a leg. Otherwise, maintenance costs can be expensive on these cars, simply because they're Jaguars.

May I suggest you pose your question in the regional forum that covers Miami. Here's the link directly to that forum...
USA Lower Atlantic - NC SC FL GA - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

If you don't see a hyperlink above, then cut and paste above address into your browser OR go to the Jaguar Forum main page and look for the Lower Atlantic NC SC FL GA regional forum. Good luck!

 

It is a money pit if you don't DIY.
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Unfortunately, not all of us can. So the next best thing (unless you have a mechanic in the family) is to find a reputable mechanic who will charge a fair hourly rate to install parts you supply. And the most expensive way to repair these cars IMHO is to take it to a dealership.

 

The Dealership is expensive but I have learned on my STR that it is a rare car and the chances of a non-factory repair place knowing how to work on one is very small.

Of course I am lucky because my dealer is Momentum in Houston where the legendary Brutal works and I always use him when I get over my head. I had him do the alignment and the transmission service even though I supplied the parts.

That is the only dealer I have ever used that has fixed every problem I have brought in. Kind of amazed at that!
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The first code is probably a bad coil or plug, the second code is probably a bad O2 sensor or dirty O2 sensor connection. How is the car behaving? Both problems are minor and depending on miles just replace all 6 coils and plugs. There are 4 O2 sensors and you can decide on replacing all or stretching those out. How many mile are on the car

 

no more new batteries, just recharge what you have and look to why it is not holding a charge or discharging or failing to charge. You can get a very inexpensive volt meter that you plug into your cigar lighter to tell you voltages in the ele circuit. Tail light and turn signal problems are probably related to low voltages.

 

If it's a bad O2 sensor you want to replace it soon or it's liable to cause the cat. conv. to burn out.

 

Thanks to all. We'll take into account when we go to the mechanic, as well as a very long post by someone I found when I first joined (hope I can find again.) No answers to date from the regional forum, so if any of you know anyone down here in Miami that might just not be logging on regularly, I'd appreciate a referral.

Cheers!
Jim

 

First my experience with Jaguars is non existent at the moment we have 3 now so it will be growing soon. Normally if someone said to me with any car that they had problems which included 3 flat batteries and an intermittent fault with brake and indicators lights at the rear. Then the first thing I would look for is a short to ground possibly a chafed wire, although it could be unit that has an intermittent or conditional earth leak. Possibly near the rear light clusters, although it could easily be in the switch and control circuitry.

 

Worth measuring the current after 40mins of NO items in use or triggered. So need key out and to defeat any switches of things left open.

Probably something is keeping module(s) alive. (Every change in a sensor can restart the time.) Even a 1A or 2A draw soon flattens a battery.