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Wondering what folks would do? I have a 1990 XJS with about 59K on the odometer. The Cluster failed or is failing. Is a mess at the ribbon and I finally gave up. Just ordered a "new" one with 102K on the counter... Is there a way to,,,, say roll the odometer back?
What does one do in a situation like this? Never been here before or even considered it.
Hi dave... the speedo, and in turn, wasn't working which is why I got the new one. Maybe they are not working due to the ribbon,,, and in that case I will swap. I was gunna give it the ol college try, anyways. Oil pressure doesn't work and some of the lights don't either. Ribbon is a real mess.
OB... I dunno, yours is a good point, all your points BUT there is something about the difference between 102K and 59K that I wanna fight for, of ya know what I mean...?
I would try and sort the ribbon out first.
The speedo generally only fails when the mechanical side of the odometer wears or the transmitter or module packs up.
The usual culprit for multiple fails like you describe is poor earthing so run an extra earth from the bar at the back of the cluster to the body.
The other culprit is cracked tracks on the ribbon.
I agree about showing the wrong mileage, it's just not right and will cause you problems when you decide to sell.
Forgot to say, also check the condition of the multi-plugs and sockets that connect the unit to the loom; make sure all the contacts are clean.
Last edited by Steve M; 04-27-2018 at 06:00 AM.
Reason: Added a bit.
The ribbon on mine is a mess. Afraid to touch it kinda messy. I've tried to do a few patches and repairs, some cleaning and freshening contacts... But it's time has past.
Thing is, with my limited electric experience, I was getting power in places I should have been. At OPress gauge at the gauge, under the hood, new OPress reader at the oil line. Still, nothing from the gauge. Same with Speedo line in the trunk and ins and outs at the relay or converter from the Speedo to the dash (never actually got to the pickup at the differential). Juice at the Speedo posts but no Speedo function.
Looking forward and very interested in actually plugging in the new cluster and see where I am. Still,,,,
I want to be able to do something about the odometer. Hopefully the old one works and I can resell the Speedo unit, the dial, from the new cluster. Fingers crossed.
here's the link. Don't know if you can see it due to it being "sold" but this is the Cali wrecking yard. Talk to them... Good People, great service. Can google their number. Or i can get it for ya. Lol,,, let's see if I think that once I have the part in hand, haha.
Wondering what folks would do? I have a 1990 XJS with about 59K on the odometer. The Cluster failed or is failing. Is a mess at the ribbon and I finally gave up. Just ordered a "new" one with 102K on the counter... Is there a way to,,,, say roll the odometer back?
What does one do in a situation like this? Never been here before or even considered it.
Odometers are 'supposed' to be tamper-proof but an instrument repair shop could surely roll back the numbers for you. But finding such a shop might be tricky. Ages ago they were fairly common. I'd just google "Speedometer repair New York" and see what happens
Thanks Doug. I've never experienced it but my guess is, with all the shenanigans that go on here in the lively NYC,,, I would have to get a special document from The Donald (or some stateagency) which,,,, I've heard, he used to sell for the right price to anyone who had the doe, lol. But rumors are rumors.... If push comes to shove, I might try to see where a Google search leads. And,,, imma take a close look and see what I can do IF the 'new' one works or,,, if the old one will work in the new cluster. We shall see.
Welders working on LH floors as we speak, btw,,, said he might be able to fab that cross member under the rad, as well.... I'm thinking, if he will let me, I'll become his new shop slave to learn what I can from him. He is supposed to be the best on the island.
my next project is to turn an old OVERDONE Goldwing gl1200,,, into one of these!!!
I got excited when you said 'new' but I guess it's from a scrapper.
Hopefully it is not worse than the one that you have!
I am a lucky guy in that I actually have a new circuit flexible in stock. However (apart from crowing!) I post to mention that anyone with a couple of weekends to spare could quite easily make direct insulated loom connections to the individual instruments, and at the same time eliminate the multiplugs for something more reliable. Only very small diameter insulated wire would be needed, and once done, a much more reliable and serviceable gauge cluster would be the result.
The multiplug wires are colour coded, attached is a diagram I once made of where the multiplug connections went to. The instrument does not know how the volts get to it (via a track or a wire), it is just a matter of carefully connecting the wires to where the tracks on the board went. Making a very careful diagram and taking it one wire at a time would do it.
I will look out what multiplug wire colours info I have; but it is not strictly needed; just connect each wire to where it went to via the board track (or tracks for the common feeds and earths).
Last edited by Greg in France; 04-27-2018 at 08:29 AM.
The multiplug wires are colour coded, attached is a diagram I once made of where the multiplug connections went to. The instrument does not know how the volts get to it (via a track or a wire), it is just a matter of carefully connecting the wires to where the tracks on the board went. Making a very careful diagram and taking it one wire at a time would do it.
I will look out what multiplug wire colours info I have; but it is not strictly needed; just connect each wire to where it went to via the board track (or tracks for the common feeds and earths).
WOW WOW WOW!!! YES!
Ill be doing this!!! At least for a few things. Maybe I didn't even need the new cluster!?!?!?
The cluster has a horizontally-oriented metallic grounding bar. When I had an XJS I ran a redundant ground from there to a known-good ground behind the dashboard....can't remember where exactly after these years.
Weak grounds are the bane of old cars.
Make sure you have good grounds and clean connections....make a weekend of it....and the vast majority of the much-ballyhooed "Lucas, Prince of Darkness" problems will be solved !
Hi. Yes Doug. I have tied into that bar across the back and top - grounded the bar at one of the ribbon connection screws to the body but still,,, how the bar is connected to the "earth grounds" (if I am saying and thinking that right) is with/via ribbon ultimately. Yes? I think, if I remember rightly, there are three places, as tied in with a screw that clamps down tightening into the plastic backing, along the length of that flattened bar, to ribbon. Is that really the ground for the entire cluster? The method of tie in for ground seems it must be a problem.
Oh... And I haven't thought about this distinction for a year --- I think mine is a Marelli car... Same difference kinda though, I guess.
For instance,,, my tachometer seems nothing like accurate. In your experience, is that something that is solved by better ground point? Can I ground the tach by tying into its ground "post" bolt/nut (one of the three copper/brass posts on the back side holding it to the cluster) and go to solid ground? Would that help - ya think?
Hi. Yes Doug. I have tied into that bar across the back and top - grounded the bar at one of the ribbon connection screws to the body but still,,, how the bar is connected to the "earth grounds" (if I am saying and thinking that right) is with/via ribbon ultimately. Yes? I think, if I remember rightly, there are three places, as tied in with a screw that clamps down tightening into the plastic backing, along the length of that flattened bar, to ribbon. Is that really the ground for the entire cluster? The method of tie in for ground seems it must be a problem.
My memory is foggy on some of these specifics but I think you are correct: the bar is connected to the ribbon. let's wait to hear what others have to say
Oh... And I haven't thought about this distinction for a year --- I think mine is a Marelli car... Same difference kinda though, I guess.
Marelli vs Lucas probably not significant WRT the cluster
For instance,,, my tachometer seems nothing like accurate. In your experience, is that something that is solved by better ground point? Can I ground the tach by tying into its ground "post" bolt/nut (one of the three copper/brass posts on the back side holding it to the cluster) and go to solid ground? Would that help - ya think?
Poor grounds can give the craziest symptoms.
On my XJS the tachometer would go nuts whenever I turned the headlights on. I suspected right away it was a poor ground....and it was.
If the tach has a dedicated ground post then, yes, you should be able to ground it directly
04-26-2018, 02:47 PM
Odometer Questions With a 'New' Inst Cluster
