Just joined, Hi,
Passenger window does not operate, bought new switch and replaced, not the problem. Any suggestions on the next step? Regulator?
Thanks

 

Hi,
Didn't identify the car, 1990 XJS V12 Convert
Thanks

 

Remove the switches and clean the contacts. The switch comes apart quite easily with 2 small screwdrivers one down each side. There are 2 rockers inside clean the contacts with fine sand paper 600+ and reassemble.

There is a modification to add relays that cures this problem forever if you are so inclined let me know and I'll post the cct diagram.

cheers
Warren

 

Thanks Warren, I will try that, but I did already take out the old switch and plug in the new switch I bought and the window did not operate. Would you suggest still cleaning the old switch and trying again?

Thanks,
John

 

Do you hear/see any sign that the window is "trying" to operate? A noise, slight movement, dimming of the interior lights when the switch is operated? If so the window might simply be stuck. The felt run channel might be dry (aerosol silicone needed here) or the channel might be damaged (replacement most likely needed). And/or the regulator mechanism might be stuck (try your favorite aerosol lube)

If there's no sign of life at all the window motor might be dead or perhaps you have have a wiring issue bwtween the switch and the motor. With a test light or multi-meter it should be easy to tell if the motor is getting power.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug,
No there is no noise, no dimming or any sign that window is trying to operate. Getting a test light was my next step to follow the power through the wiring to see where the problem is...starting with the switch.
Thanks for the advice, I will post what I find out.

John

 

If you have already replaced the switch do as Doug said and check for 12V before and after the switch.

The way the Jag windows work is kinda backwards from most. The motors have +12V on BOTH sides and the switch grounds one side or the other making the window go up or down.

If you don't have a multimeter go and buy yourself one a cheapie is ok that is all I have. Also get a set leads with captive ends so you can clip them onto terminals.

Remove the plug from the motor and check for +12V to ground on both motor wires, NOT across the wires. Then connect the meter across the wires and operate the switch one way will read +12V and the other way will read -12V. If this check out ok then the motor is most likely stuffed. You can confirm this by taking a 12V car battery and connecting it across the window motor.

The reason to check the motor its self is there is a thermal overload protection in the window power circuit and if this is faulty you could have +12V on the wire but not enough current to drive the motor. You can check this by connecting the DMM across the motor and operating the switch, if there is a high resistance the voltage will drop when the switch is operated.

Cheers
Warren

 

That is my plan, I will be getting a tester this week and will do what Doug is suggesting and post what I find out. I did take the switch apart, not a problem as you indicated, thanks.

I assume I will need to take the door panel off to get to the motor...a big job? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John

 

Not sure if this means anything, but all of the dash lights don't work when the headlights are turned on either. Is this a separate problem or connected? If separate, then I will solve the window first and then tackle the dash lights.

Thanks,

John

 

Almost certainly a different problem. I say "almost" because ground faults can cause weird problems that defy logic.

I'd approach them as two diffferent problems.

DD

 

Hi,
new problem just cropped up, I think a radiator hose just burst. Was parked in driveway and huge amount of steam started to pour out of hood, opened hood and could see a spray of coolant hitting side of engine from the drivers side just under the air intake. Is this something I can handle if I find the hose that is leaking?
Thanks,

John

 

I have the same problem with my passenger side window. Will try to clean switch tomorrow.

 

Robo5555,
Have you had any luck with your window yet? I have some time coming up that I plan to spend trying to solve my pass wind problem. If I do solve it I will post what I end up finding, maybe it will help solve yours.
John

 

That would be great....Have not had a chance to play with it yet. Thanks!

 

Figured it out...bad switch. Isolated the switch by using the drivers side switch on the passenger side and it worked. Now my convertible top is not working....suspect is a bad switch as well. Had to wigle b4 to make it work.

 

Hey Robo5555,

Glad you figured it out, that was the first thing I tried and it is not the switch in my case. Hope you figure the top problem out.

John

 

you find the hose?
thats low enough down you should be able to fill the system and see where it comes out.

 

Did find the leak and had the lower hose replaced, but after that repair the water pump started to leak and had to get that replaced. So far,,,things going great, rides great, still have to figure out the window issue.

Thanks,

 

what?? I though it ended up being the switch even after you got a new one.

you take it out and check the motor and see if you have 12v coming to it when the switch is pressed?

 

Hi,

I did get a new switch, plugged it in and nothing happened. I did take the old switch out, but did not clean it since I had tried the replacement switch. I bought a tester and will be starting my search this weekend. When you say check the motor...are you suggesting I take the door panel off and check power coming to the connector when the switch is pressed?

Thanks for your help,

John