Passenger window not working
#21
yeah thats what im saying, just unplug it and plug the meter in and see if its giving u 12v. idk if you have taken the door card off before but its pretty easy as long as you know about sliding the metal ring down from the grab handle.
im assuming you have checked fuses and whatnot. And Idk but id guess the windows are on the same one, so since the drivers side is working thats not it.
im assuming you have checked fuses and whatnot. And Idk but id guess the windows are on the same one, so since the drivers side is working thats not it.
#22
New update on passenger window, have not had luck locating the problem, but a new update. Fall has now come to NH and the temps have been getting colder at night. I took the car to work after a chilly night and for kicks tried the passenger window, and it worked. It went smoothly up and down for the whole trip. However, during the day, the temps warmed up to the mid 70's and after work the window failed to work again. I tried it again this am, after a chilly night, and it worked again smoothly going up and down.............any thoughts?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
#23
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Been there. Frustrating.
The possibilties are limited, though, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
You either have a mechanical problem or electrical problem.
A mechanical problem would be that the window is physically stuck. Generally, in such a case, you'd hear the motor straining or see the interior lights dim slightly as the motor draws current in a vain attempt to operate the stuck window. Or perhaps you'd see the volt meter drop just a tick. Or, since the motors develop a fair bit of torque, you can sometimes actually see the the door trim kick out as the motor torques against a stuck window and a rigid mounting.
On the electrical side you have lack of power or a dead motor.
Lack of power can be a fault in supply power to the switch, the switch itself, or a wiring fault, usually in the form of a weak connection. Besides connections at the switch and motor there is "probably" an intermediate connection somewhere. You'll have to check the wiring schematics.
Some test light or volt meter checking when the fault is present should reveal where voltage is going....or not going.
As for the motor itself, well, they're known to develop "dead spots" which give intermittant operation.
I recall, perhaps incorrectly, that you've already tried a new switch....so that leaves A)wiring/connections B) mechanical problem and C) and the motor itself
If you don't have the above-described symptoms of a mechanical problem you can probably rule it out.
That leaves wiring/connections (which can be checked either visually or with a test light or meter) and the motor. Lacking a test light or meter you can just clean/tighten connections and see what happens.
My gut feeling is that you have a motor problem but I wouldn't replace it before spending an hour or so making some routine wiring/connection checks.
If you conclude the motor is at fault you might be able to open it up and actually see a fault....worn brushes, for example. Otherwise you'll have to buy a new one....which is sometimes tricky due to several redesigns/supercessions of the motors and window regulators.
Anyhow, I'm afraid that you'll just have to roll up you sleeves and dig in :-)
Cheers and good luck
The possibilties are limited, though, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
You either have a mechanical problem or electrical problem.
A mechanical problem would be that the window is physically stuck. Generally, in such a case, you'd hear the motor straining or see the interior lights dim slightly as the motor draws current in a vain attempt to operate the stuck window. Or perhaps you'd see the volt meter drop just a tick. Or, since the motors develop a fair bit of torque, you can sometimes actually see the the door trim kick out as the motor torques against a stuck window and a rigid mounting.
On the electrical side you have lack of power or a dead motor.
Lack of power can be a fault in supply power to the switch, the switch itself, or a wiring fault, usually in the form of a weak connection. Besides connections at the switch and motor there is "probably" an intermediate connection somewhere. You'll have to check the wiring schematics.
Some test light or volt meter checking when the fault is present should reveal where voltage is going....or not going.
As for the motor itself, well, they're known to develop "dead spots" which give intermittant operation.
I recall, perhaps incorrectly, that you've already tried a new switch....so that leaves A)wiring/connections B) mechanical problem and C) and the motor itself
If you don't have the above-described symptoms of a mechanical problem you can probably rule it out.
That leaves wiring/connections (which can be checked either visually or with a test light or meter) and the motor. Lacking a test light or meter you can just clean/tighten connections and see what happens.
My gut feeling is that you have a motor problem but I wouldn't replace it before spending an hour or so making some routine wiring/connection checks.
If you conclude the motor is at fault you might be able to open it up and actually see a fault....worn brushes, for example. Otherwise you'll have to buy a new one....which is sometimes tricky due to several redesigns/supercessions of the motors and window regulators.
Anyhow, I'm afraid that you'll just have to roll up you sleeves and dig in :-)
Cheers and good luck
#24
#25
#26
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"...seem to be working fine..." is a bit uncertain but if all the electricals are OK then the window must be physically stuck.
Sometimes the felt channel gets jammed up. Or perhaps the mechanical mechanism is worn out and binding up?
If you have a helper hold the switch will the window go up-down if you help it along with your hands?
Cheers
DD
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