I have a 96 XJS with the AJ16.

This year I'm planning to replace the bushings on my radius arms.

've ordered the parts from JDHT, I wanted to make sure they were OEM since they lasted so long the first time, and I've read some bad reports on the more common URO aftermarket ones. I'm hoping the OEM ones from JDHT are indeed still made by Metalastik.

Anyways, while I'm in there, is there anything else I should have done? I'd hate to pass up on an opportunity to swap something else out while I'm in there. Kinda like not replacing the ball joints when replacing upper control arm bushings.

Thanks.

 

It depends on how far you want to go although there isn't much left after the radius arms; shock absorber bushes and V mounts at the top of the cage.

 

Vee,

You might want to install the large bushes in the arms as per JaguarSport rather than the standard way. IE put the air gaps in the opposite plane to the line of the arm, such that the inline forces are directed through the solid parts of the bush. This can help tighten up the back end.

Good luck

Paul

 

Hmmm. Interesting. I hadn't thought about that. That is an excellent suggestion. I will have to do some additional research.

Thank you!

 

Vee,

the cheapest improvement you'll make as it won't cost you anything if you're buying new bushes anyway!

Lots of us in the UK have done this and there really is no downside to it at all (IMO!)

Paul

 

Paul
I found that a great deal depends upon the tyres, spring rate and damper settings. I tried this on my non-sportpack car, and it produced a very distinct and noticeable - by the Management no less - "bunny hop" to the rear end on some very good main road surfaces at about 50 to 60 MPH. No apparent cause from the road surface, So I took them off and turned them back to holes fore and aft and all back to the legendary velvet on cream ride.
Just depends I suppose.
Greg

 

Vee, like Steve said, it depends how far you wish to go. But one thing you could test for, at least, is as follows
As you have to undo the front shocker lower pin to get access to make the change to the arms at the axle end (I think, but even if not, you are there anyway) you could slide the pin right out. This then allows the wishbone to be tested for fore and aft movement in the outer and inner fulcrums. That is, is there play in the fulcrum bearings that is allowing the bottom wishbone to move fore and aft, rather than just up and down? The rubber in the radius arms is there to accommodate designed movement of the entire rear axle system, there should not be play in the actual bearings.
Changing them is not that easy in terms of setting it up properly, as the outers have some preload that you have to measure, but it is a DIY job. Even if you find some play and do not fix it straight away, at least you know about it. Once the superb high speed long corner tracking ability of the XJS starts to deteriorate, this is very often the cause.
Greg

 

Greg,

Tks for your comments. I hadn't heard of that type of symptom so I stand corrected that there is never a downside to this mod! I just assumed as Jaguar did it on the XJR-S, it would be fine for everyone! I did it when I changed my rear suspension to a tighter setup and don't seem to have any adverse feel, but as you say, maybe it depends on the combination of tyre, spring, shock etc.

Cheers

Paul

 

Greg,

I did as you recommended. Pulled the pin and tried to move the wishbone. Nothing. I couldn't move it fore or aft, at least on the passengers side. I will do the same on the drivers side tomorrow. Unless I find something different, I will close this thread.

Thanks for the recommendation!