Thank you, Paul. I appreciate greatly your kind words.
My general aim with the car is to replace any failed parts with more reliable and robust parts, if they are available. And also to improve any OEM stuff that is not good enough for modern conditions. This is what has guided me in improving the handbrake, fitting a Torsen diff and upspec'd UJs, fitting a Hall effect TPS, and simplifying the cooling system, for example.
Hitherto, OEM fuel and hydraulic parts have been good; but are now NLA. An aftermarket power steering hose blowout from the fitting, at only 4 years old and not more than 10,000 miles, was a shock, and could have been a very big problem if I had happened to be far from home.
Thorsen advised me to use PTFE AN fittings for this application, and (not to tempt fate, subject to further use) it seems to be a real improvement. These fittings are also excellent for fuel lines, and their great advantage is that they can be undone and done up again with no extra sealants or leakage trouble. Fitting the hoses to the metal parts was very straightforward too.

I feel that users are now falling into two distinct groups (and I have no criticism of an individual owner's choice):

• those who use their cars as low mileage hobby cars; and
• those who use them more as regular driver's cars. As a retiree my entire mileage is far less than it would be if I was still working, and although fuel costs keep my XJS mileage lower than I would like, I use it at every opportunity. Hence my desire to have it as reliable as I can make it.

 

Greg,
I am in complete agreement with the two different groups of owners and furthermore I believe both groups can live in harmony. Like you I am in the second group and my goal is to drive my vintage cars as much as possible. I tend to bullet proof things as much as possible with an eye towards future servicing and performance.
Thomas

 

Good work! I just replaced the rack in my car and this is not a fun job to get all the fittings done up. Not having catalytic converters would certainly make the job easier.

 

Good morning, Greg! I have been following with great interest your most recent adventure with the power steering hoses, fantastic work! Looks very robust. I noted your comments on the car usage... I'm not sure where I fit in! I certainly LOVE driving my car, but my funding is limited to be able to repair as needed, so it makes me more hesitant to drive, as I would proportionately increase my repair bills!
I had a technique I wanted to share with you for your consideration, something I was taught by a very good aircraft mechanic when I had my airplanes. "Bullet-proof" takes on a new meaning when your vehicle is operating in the clouds at 12,000 feet above the earth! This technique involves the use of tie-wraps (the nylon ties we use to secure such things as hoses to the frame, etc.). What I was taught is that there is a hazard when making a single wrap around the sagging hose and the support (such as frame). Attaching/tightening in such a manner places the hose in direct contact with the support, and invites rubbing with the potential to wear through the hose.
To avoid this issue, I was taught to make the first tie-wrap exactly as you have shown in your power steering hose pictures. HOWEVER, one would make this quite loose. A SECOND tie-wrap is then tightened between the hose and the support, so that the hose is not touching the frame/support. This technique secures the hose, but eliminates the rubbing. I am going to stop here for a second and attempt a picture to show you what I mean... OK, just got back in from the garage and got a couple of pictures that should show you what I mean. There is a little bit of a "feel" to determine how "slack" one leaves the first tie-wrap (obviously readily adjustable). I would tighten the tie-wrap on the hose for a firm fit, still slightly loose in the picture.
I have never ever had a hose-rub failure with this technique, and I offer it up to you from the Aviation world!
Warm regards,
John (now in Georgia!)


First tie-wrap attached, but NOT tightened fully

2nd tie-wrap attached between the hose and the support, then tightened firmly. At this time, BOTH tie-wraps can be snugged up.

 

Great idea and tip, John. next time I have the car on the ramp (after the next drive to recheck for leaks) I will replace my tie in the photo below just as you show. Thanks for thinking of me.

 

John
As promised:



Thanks again.

 

That's smart - those braided stainless steel hoses are like sand paper on paint.
Thomas

 

Sadly, Thomas, my once newly painted engine bits would not notice!
But I did slip some 4mm walled silicone hose over the braid where I was concerned about chafing on an engine bracket bolt. The red ring here shows the place:


I am SO impressed with the AN fittings, and so grateful for your advice on them. As and when I have to do anything concerning oil or fuel hoses, I shall convert to them. For example, I had the devil's own trouble with sealing the transmission oil cooler fittings when I changed the starter earlier this year. Next time it will be on with the adaptors and AN fittings, and using flexibles. It will make any further maintenance on them a breeze.
I cannot recommend their use highly enough, and they are extremely easy to set up, far easier than flares and annular nuts and far easier sealing.