Yes the DType was a live rear axle which was OK on the smooth long LeMans course. Handicapped on shorter bumpier tracks.
Thanks for those details. RE; the IRS

 

Would you like to try replacing the camshaft on a Corvette compared to the V12? I’m sure I can change both cams in1/2 the time it takes to do a Chevy V8. Some cars you can’t even do it while the engine is in the car.
Since I’ve done a lot of both I’m sure this is true. Jaguar even has a bracket so you can slide the sprockets forward out of the way without losing tension on the timing chain.
In addition when finished no need to reset the timing. The distributor remains in place on the V12. As does the accessory’s, harmonic damper, water pump, front timing cover, timing chains, and sprockets.
Instead of sliding the cam out of the block, with Jaguar, you simply lift them off the top of the engine.
Finally because the springs don’t have to fight the weight of the lifter, pushrods, rocker arms, that a Chevy does. As long as the oil is properly changed the V12 may go its whole life without need of replacement or adjustment the way the Chevy does.

 

Would you like to try replacing the camshaft on a Corvette compared to the V12? I’m sure I can change both cams in1/2 the time it takes to do a Chevy V8. Some cars you can’t even do it while the engine is in the car.
Since I’ve done a lot of both I’m sure this is true. Jaguar even has a bracket so you can slide the sprockets forward out of the way without losing tension on the timing chain.
In addition when finished no need to reset the timing. The distributor remains in place on the V12. As does the accessory’s, harmonic damper, water pump, front timing cover, timing chains, and sprockets.
Instead of sliding the cam out of the block, with Jaguar, you simply lift them off the top of the engine.
Finally because the springs don’t have to fight the weight of the lifter, pushrods, rocker arms, that a Chevy does. As long as the oil is properly changed the V12 may go its whole life without need of replacement or adjustment the way the Chevy does.
I mention this because, yes, some tasks are easier on the Corvette. But there are also trade offs. The dash of a C4 ( which I owned ) is lucky to get out of the warranty period before it fails.
Others issues like the hybrid oil system failing with regularity on higher powered Corvettes,
The nightmare of changing the clutch on newer Corvettes, Etc.
No car is perfect.

 

Back to the topic at hand.
You'll notice in one of the pictures that he has the car up on jack stands at all four corners. This is HIGHLY recommended as opposed to just raising the rear end.
Numerous advantages: a) Ease of disassembly and removal of cage; b) ease of sliding cage out either from the rear or a side; c) far easier to reinstall and reconnect on a level plane; d) prevents possible damage to front lower air dam.

 

This is true, Brad, but I recommend the front lower suspension wishbone being on blocks or the wheels in indents in wood cribs. It is surprisingly easy to accidentally pull a car off four jackstands when - for instance - straining at a brake caliper bolt or an output shaft nut.

 

True enough. I've nearly done just that. Scary. And that's why I always put the wheels under the car. If the jack stands topple at least it won't pancake right the the floor......squishing the mechanic to death.

Blocks....good ones..... are safer than jack stands.

Cheers
DD

 

Yes, I concur completely. Some 4" x 4" x 8-10" blocks screwed together 2 or 3 layers high can provide excellent safety precautions.
There are no second chances if a two ton car falls on you. As we said in the Army, "Have a backup to the backup."