I have absolutely no parking brake.
Upon removing the rotors I found that the linings were either completely gone or the thin remnants had came off the shoes. My question for the forum members is this. My axles are very difficult to turn. Is this normal? I have never found this level of force needed to turn any other rear axle with the car in neutral and the rotors off. I do hope I don't have differential trouble. Thanks for any advice.
RagJag

 

If you only have one wheel off the ground in the rear, your wheels are hard to turn because you have traction control.

 

Okay, Knomad. Thanks. I wondered about that. I have not worked on any cars with TC before. Good to know there isn't something expensive wrong. Now if I can just remember to release rhe parking brake! Obviously the PO didn't as this seems to be a common problem with these cars.
RagJag

 

I've been guilty of leaving the parking brake on more than once. It is hard to see the red light on the dash when you have your sunglasses on.

 

I did too, the first time I drove it. I was not familiar with that system.

 

Hard to say how much effort is "too much" to turn the wheels. Unless you're hearing noises from the diff -- clunk, grinds, growls -- I doubt that you have a problem.

As for the traction control explanation, well, frankly, I don't think that would account for anything. Traction control operates by closing the throttle and/or applying the brakes via the ABS system.....so with the key off/engine off, and brakes removed, it couldn't be functional.

To be honest I don't think the XJS was ever built with traction control but I can't swear to that.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, Doug. I havent taken the right rotor off as yet. I will try then. There doesn't seem to be any noises coming from the diff. Don't know what is in the diff as to oil either. Parts should be in tomorrow and I will know by then if there is any problem.
RagJag

 

By traction control, he meant limited slip differential, or positive traction. All XJS's have positive traction. That will make one axel hard to turn is the other one is on the ground...

Dave
Atlanta

 

axle...sorry

 

I installed the parking brake shoes and found, upon rotor removal, that the lining material was not attached to the shoes, probably due to being driven while applied. Also the linings were paper thin. This is not too difficult a job. The small brake shoe springs are very strong. You need to use a little thought to getting them off. Easier to get them back on. I have a very strong park brake now. The shoes cost around $60-$70 from Bap-Geon because Paul's were on vacation until next week.

Do any of you know when Jaguar started using this type of inside the rotor parkbrake? Is that a Ford addition? I have that type on my 2007 Toyota, also.
Thanks for any replies.
RagJag

 

I *think* it dates back to the earliest outboard-rear-brake XJ6s of 1987/88

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, Doug. A friend of mine thought that was a Ford idea.
RagJag

 

I dunno who dreamed it up first. The earliest example I'm aware of, personally, is the '65 Corvette.

Cheers
DD

 

Whoever did that, it was a very good engineering idea. Much better than the gimpy design of activating the rear shoes/pads as a parking brake. Also better than the old drive shaft type. Probably cost a little more.
RagJag

 

Amen...

 

Anybody know how to adjust the parking brake on a V12 1992 XJS convertible with inboard, on the axle, calipers and discs.
I have just got one brake caliper off the car - took a day. I think you are supposed to remove the whole axle from the car.
I need to loosen the parking brake cable to get the cable back in the slot when I am done.

 

Slightly off topic but I have always been curious by the different approaches to handbrake use between the UK and US. Even though I have lived in the US now for almost 30 years it still drives me potty when someone parks a car with manual transmission by putting it in first gear and never applying the handbrake Now when I drop my car off for service or hand over to the parking valet I always tell them it's in neutral, and the handbrake on and show them how to release it otherwise for certain they will drive off with the handbrake on!!

Even worse, when I get back in the car, I always have to remember to depress the clutch before starting the engine or else experience a nasty jolt forward!

In England we always park the car in neutral with handbrake on, it's drilled into us and incorrect use during a driving test would be an automatic fail.

Does anyone know why the approach is different over here? Is it just to-may-to, to-mah-to or is there a specific safety reason?

Thanks,

Allan

 

The inboard brake cars use separate calipers for the parking brakes. If the calipers are clean and lubricated they'll self adjust. Usually, though, the mechanisms are so gunked up that they just don't work. Remove, disassemble, clean, lubricate, reinstall...with new parking brake pads.

After the calipers are installed operate the actuating levers by hand to take up the initial free play. It's a ratchet type mechanism. Don't rather the pads clear down against the discs. Just take up the excess play.

The parking brake pads need "bedding in" just like regular brake pads. I drive at 10mph and slowly apply the parking brake. Do this 3-4 times over the course of a day or two and your pads will be bedded in.

There IS a cable adjustment near the parking brake handle itself but, other than initial set-up, there's usually no need to "go there".

Cheers
DD

 

Never really understood that myself although, if the engine compression is good, simply leaving the car in gear will hold it stationary. I've driven some cars with tired engines where, if parked on a slope, leaving it in gear without setting the parking brake will simply mean that it sorta chugs downhill!


I always use the handbrake....with either auto or manual trans. Not only for safety but it keeps the handbrake mechanism exercised. Additionally, with an automatic transmission, setting the parking brake first allows the parking brake to hold the weight of the car rather than the parking pawl inside the transmission.




Why not do both? Use the handbrake AND leave the car in gear? Belt and braces. I see no particular advantage to insisting the transmission be left in neutral.




No specific reason that I can think of other than being a bit lazy

Cheers
DD

 

{Quote:}
I've been guilty of leaving the parking brake on more than once. It is hard to see the red light on the dash when you have your sunglasses on.

-I'm glad it just isn't ME, when dropping or raising the top, I've been known to leave the damn handbrake on, as the red light usually lines up with the steering wheel. -I may check out a small beeper or whistle when the key is on and the HB is on....or simply dismantle the handbrake wire leading to the top up/down switch.