XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Replacing Oil Pan in 4.0 XJS

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Old 01-03-2019, 10:56 AM
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Default Replacing Oil Pan in 4.0 XJS

The oil pan in the 96 XJS has a crack at the bottom. (It was stolen, damaged, and I am working on repairing it)

It needs to be replaced. After reading other posts, it seems that I need to get the bottom suspension out of the way? Does that sound right? I was hoping I could lift the engine with a support bar and get to all the bolts that way. Has anyone done this before? I'm looking for someone who might be familiar.

If I do have to get the bottom suspension out of the way....the age old question comes up, what else should I get done while I'm in there? Is the steering rack removed too? Sounds like a ton of work for a simple pan.

Thanks.
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 12:38 PM
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I'm afraid I wont have good news for you, its a major job and not something I'd attempt myself. As you know, you'll need to drop subframe and somehow support engine, either with a beam or an engine crane, not much needs to be removed and its all fairly easy to do but its all heavy things in there and I'd say a car ramp is a must.
While in there only TWO, maybe three things needs replacing. Vee-mounts are a must and big subframe bushes(MNC2370AC). If your engine mounts are worn out - thats the best time to replace them too(they were perfectly fine on mine).
You can read everything about it here:
https://www.xj40.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=998249
Few pointers:
Rack stays on the subframe, all that is needed is to undo PS lines, replacing all fluid and vee mounts huuugely improves steering.
Do not attempt to remove ABS sensors from the hub, simply unplug them under bonnet.
There are ground straps attached to brake lines, if they are difficult to undo - dont, simply cut them in the middle and then join/solder afterwards.
Do not use cheapo vee mounts as aftermarket ones are usually crap, I've used berkshirejags(UK) but these are apparently the only ones worth considering apart from genuine ones.
If you can be bothered and have enough funds, you can look into refurbishing front suspension at the same time but that can also be done later with the subframe on the car. All about it here:
https://www.xj40.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=998717
Not for the faint-hearted for sure.
 
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2019, 02:13 PM
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Thank you. This helps.

My Subframe Mounting Bush part number is a little different, it's CBC5736. Is that what you meant?

I also have a different Vee Mount Part Number. It's CBC5735.

I'm assuming those are the two (pairs of) parts recommended. This wouldn't be the time to consider swapping out the difficult to access LOWER control arm bushing, would it?

I have replaced the upper control arms and associated ball joints, so I certainly have disconnected by share of parts from that front suspension. (including the front shocks) I thought I was going to have to disconnect the steering rack...I was planning on replacing the bushings with the sportspack ones....which I have in my possession, but I guess thats for another day?
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:33 PM
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Ah yes, its CBC5736, which has a center hole, mine were a bit different with an offset hole. Vee mounts are CBC5735 indeed. Re lower arm bushings, with the subframe out it will certainly be a bit easier to do them but it will add an extra day of work easily too(spring compressor required too) so depends on how brave you feel I suppose
One thing you reminded me though re steering rack is two large spacer bushes SPC1059 that normally could be fitted to XJ6 and X300 but I suspect they might fit XJS too and they will stiffen up steering, might be a good idea to investigate this as they aren't expensive and would be easy to fit with the subframe out(big improvement too). Obviously rack bushes are fairly easy to swap but are easy to check too.
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:21 PM
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Not sure that the SPC1059 spacers are found anymore. I have the sportspack bushings that have the metal end. Its part number CBC9107.
 
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Old 01-07-2019, 08:31 PM
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I’m trying to figure out what I need to disconnect to get this oil pan out.

Will I need to disconnect tie rods, ball joints or anything at the wheels?

The manual is not too descriptive on how to pull this off. There’s no YouTube video. I read through the XJ40 links but there’s not enough info there for me.

I’m planning to use the harbor freight engine support and set the car on jack stands.

I see that I have to start by removing the pinch bolt securing the lower steering column universal joint to the rack.
Then I remove the bolt, washer and self locking but securing the steering rack top mounting to the crossmember.

At this point the steering rack drops?
 
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:44 PM
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I found this on another thread by Greg In France:

Ok, to change the rear front set of front subframe mounts, you have to raise the car, or at least the front, then:
  1. Raise the car, or at least the front
  2. Support the engine across the top using a support beam standing in the gutters each side of the engine bay attached to the front lifting eyes
  3. Then undo the front engine mounts at their topside, that is the bit that is attached to the bracket bolted to the engine (hard to get at but doable), needs a very short ring spanner
  4. Undo the shock absorbers, either at the top or at the bottom
  5. Loosen the huge bolt that goes through the front two subframe mounts
  6. Then support the subframe under the centre with a jack
  7. Then undo the steering column from the rack tower
  8. Then undo the nut that holds the rear mounts to the subframe
  9. Then CAREFULLY lower the jack a bit and if necessary pry down the frame at the rear, about 2 inches should do it. Be sure to not stress the front brake flexible lines by dropping the subframe too far, if necessary you will have to undo these, but I do not think it is.
  10. Then you can undo the two fixings that hold the rear subframe mounts to the lower chassis rail, the subframe itself masks one of them until lowered.
  11. Bolt on the replacements and jack the subframe back up and do up all the things you undid.
I think this is all that is needed to do the job.

Is this a pretty accurate description of what I can expect on a Facelift?
 

Last edited by Vee; 01-07-2019 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:58 PM
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Now I finally found this super helpful post!

jaghelp.com: Changing the power steering rack on a 1994 Jaguar XJS L6

I now understand I have three bolts to disconnect to loosen the rack. Will that get me the space I need to replace the oil pan?

Thanks.
 
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Old 01-08-2019, 03:29 AM
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Vee,

Everything at the wheels stays apart from the calipers, you'll need to undo them and hang them at the wheel wells and as mentioned cut the ground straps(if they are even still there), unplug abs sensors under bonnet(they will pull through inner wing) and you undo the top shock nuts, engine mounts nuts and vee-mounts (all clearly visible in the engine bay.
Then you undo power steering lines at the rack, steering column coupling and with the engine supported on a crane or beam you can undo the large bolts and nuts that hold the big bushes with the frame and the whole thing will drop down underneath the car. Make sure to tie the springs(or use a compressor for safety), better safe than sorry(Starbuck in that XJ40 thread explains why).
At this point you replace the pan and big bushes and put everything back together exactly the same way as it came out.
There might be some very slight differences between all these subframe models but that's generally what you need to do to replace your oil sump.

PS

I'm not sure this is doable on jack stands, you'll need the car ~3ft up to slide the subframe out on a jack, plus you'll need a second person to guide the rack into position later when fitting it back. Alternative is to remove the rack and fit it later but that adds to the job as you'll need to remove tie rods and rack fully.
By the way, its an ~8 hours job in a garage, probably three or four times longer if you do it on your own in your garage(or driveway).
 

Last edited by katar83; 01-08-2019 at 03:43 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-08-2019, 12:10 PM
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Katar83,

i think this is one of the times where it’s better to pay a shop to do it. I’m worried that this whole thing can get derailed with one wrong move, or one needed tool.

If everything goes according to plan, it would probably take me an entire weekend....when does anything ever go according to plan?

Thanks for the help and the reality reminder....
 
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