Hello-

I'm having a hard time finding information about this procedure. I will have the car soon to put it up on the lift but I wanted to see what needs to be removed to gain access to the oil pan. Does anyone have firsthand experience? One procedure I found shows where it bolts to the bell housing, but does not list any helpful steps. When I searched I mostly found other models or tranny pan procedures.

The pan was cracked and welded as a temporary fix, and now it is leaking again and he would like to replace the pan.

This may be a longshot question, in which case I'll just wait till I have the car in my hands to get a better idea of the labor.

Thanks

 

I have a very slow drip around my drain plug from previous owner over tightening so will be interested to hear how this pans out (pun intended). It's not a must do now but it does need done eventually.

 

I have not done it myself on the X300, but I reckon its not that much different to the others I have done.

I reckon that you will either have to raise the engine, or lower the suspension cradle to get it out/in.

A drawing from my parts book shows the basic set up.

I am not aware of it being attached to the bellhousing in any direct way.

 

Good to know, I'll try and get a closer look soon

 

First hand experience here. I had a customer poke a hole in the middle of the oil pan in his 96 XJR. Also did crank bearings on two cars although they were not supercharged.

It was many years ago so specifics are foggy but generally speaking, the suspension cradle must swing out of the way for proper access to the oil pan. You need an engine support fixture on top since the suspension crossbeam holds the engine mounts. Once the suspension is out of the way, the rest is self explanatory. There is no oil pan gasket, it is RTV.

 

1. work out a way to support the engine from above
2. remove the front cross member ........





Graham

 

Thanks that is exactly what I wanted to know. Not sure I can tackle this one but I'll be back if I do.

 

I have had an almost knocking noise started on my 1995 XJ6. The car only has 69K miles on it. I recently dropped the oil pan like others have mentioned by dropping the cradle. I noticed the oil pump chain is really loose. Everything else seems tight. I was expecting to see a bad rod bearing or connecting rod. Does anyone have any information on how tight the oil pump chain is supposed to be. I am new to Jaguars. Thank you!

 

Welcome to the forums Tony,

I saw this yesterday and had expected one of our X300 owning members would reply so I didn't post. As I see there has still been no reply today, here's the relevant information on the chain from the Workshop Manual:




It 's been some years since I did the sump (pan) change on mine but I didn't recall there had been any slackness in the oil pump chain. Sure enough, the Manual confirms the deflection is only very small when correctly tensioned.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

There are numerous "universal" engine supports available for modest cost on ebay. Well worth the investment, and generally handy to have in the garage. Makes this job much easier and safer.

 

Thank you for getting back to my post so quickly. The chain currently has almost 3/4in or 20MM of slack right now. So it definitely needs to be adjusted.

 

Hi Tony,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums!

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store in your area, they typically keep their affordable engine support bar in stock:

Harbor Freight Tools Engine Support Bar

You can download some of the X300 Workshop Manuals from this forum at this link:

Jaguar X300 Workshop Manual

The last time I checked, the oil pump chain was still available from Jaguar and was inexpensive. Try our forum sponsors or jaguarmerriamparts.com.

How do the teeth on the oil pump sprocket look?

Cheers,

Don

 

I do, thank you for the tip!!

 

Hi

I just bought a pretty low mileage (kilometers actually) -95 XJ 3.2 a month ago. It has 120k kilometers, so roughly 75k miles.
Then I changed the engine oil, and did a silly mistake by not thinking the oil amount through.
I didn't know how much oil goes into this engine, and after adding 3 liters (little over 3 quarts) I made the silly mistake of thinking that I'll let the engine run for about 3 minutes with 1000-2000rpm so the oil circulates, and then add the rest.
I had no idea that this engine takes about 8 liters, over 2 gallons of oil!
So now I have been worried that I might of hurt the cranck bearings.
(some white particles came out with the engine oil, don't know if it was water or whitemetal, the temperature was good for condensation water at that time, around freezing)
So do you think the cranck got enought oil in these circumstances? I think the oil pressure was ok the whole time. Or does the cranck need some other oilflow also with higher oil level? Thanks!

 

Welcome to the forums Alfaguari,

The oil level is intended to ensure the oil strainer/pickup is always immersed even when the vehicle is cornered hard. If it was only three minutes with the vehicle stationary and level on the gound, the pickup is unlikely to have been sucking air and the bearings will not have run dry.

When a main or big end bearing fails, the noise is unmistakeable!

Graham

 

Thanks for the answer.
The car was basically still and level, and my main worry at this time is that is there some other lubrication for the cranck than just the oil pickup. (like falling or splash)
Your message suggests that there isn't, which would be great news, because propably in that case the white particles that came out were just old oil/condensation water, not whitemetal(coating)!
One other reason I think why the oil capacity is about 8 liters, is that that way the oil remains better for longer than lets say with 6 liters.
So the engines will stay in better condition for longer, in general.