Do me a favor.

Take the wheels off and put them under the car.

I'll sleep better.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for caring but there is a jack under the front sub frame. And those 6 tonne jack stands aren't even trying.

I'll put the spare tire under the rear diff for you tomorrow.

still setting up and getting little boxes ready for parts etc.

 

Rescue
Believe it or not, it is very easy to pull a car off four jackstands if that is all that is touching the ground. Also, again believe it or not, hydraulic jacks gradually descend over time - nothing to do with their lifting capacity. And they can just "let go".
Please, get some large (say 2 foot long x 1 foot) thick pieces of wood and put them under the front subframe and each of the rear corners under the hubs or jacking points.
If not we will tell your wife!

 

If you tell her then the jacks may fail. I have a pretty high life insurance policy lol.

 

steps include

1. Disconnect battery ground cable and remove transmission dipstick.
2. Remove bolt securing dipstick upper tube, then remove upper tube.Where is it? Top or bottom access?
3. Position fender supports to allow installation of engine support tool, then attach engine support tool No. MS53B or equivalent, to engine lift brackets. Tighten tool hook to support engine weight.
4. Disconnect intermediate exhaust pipes and heat shields, then disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold.
5. Remove front and rear heat shields and rear support center nut.
6. Remove spacer, then using a jack, support rear mounting plate.
7. Remove bolts securing rear mount, then remove rear spacers. Lower jack and remove rear mount.
8. With rear of transmission supported with jack, remove crossmember.
9. Disconnect driveshaft from transmission and position aside.
10. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission, then disconnect shift linkage. my speedo is in the differential
11. Disconnect kickdown switch electrical connector and remove bolt securing switch wiring clip from transmission.
12. Disconnect modulator vacuum line, then remove clamp securing modulator and the modulator. Some fluid will drain from modulator housing when modulator is removed.
13. Disconnect oil cooler lines from transmission, then remove bolt securing oil line clamp to engine sump.
14. Remove torque converter access cover. Remove bolts attaching converter to driveplate. Does the converter come out after?
15. Remove right side steering rack bellows heat shield, then remove right side catalyst from exhaust manifold, if equipped. Why?
16. Remove engine to transmission attaching bolts except two lower left side bolts and lower starter attaching bolt.
17. Remove lower dipstick tube. Attach transmission jack to transmission and remove remaining engine to transmission bolts. Lower transmission and remove from below vehicle. Use caution not to damage right side catalytic converter when removing transmission.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.

where I'm at so far. Just puttering. Comments in red.

Is this where the starter is. And is the one bolt u can see the bottom start bolt?



And pic of the dipstick tube? this bracket its sitting in has a bolt somewhere? Probably covered in grim.




No rush as I'm still trying to visualize it in my head lol.

 

The dipstick tube is in two parts. The top part is bolted to a small bracket onto the block. It is damn-near impossible to see it, but if you look down from the top and follow the dipstick carefully you will see it about level with the cam cover. A 7/16ths head, captive bolt can just be reached to undo it from the bracket.
The converter comes out with the gearbox after you have unbolted it from the flexplate.
pic attached. In my case (see second pic) the red dipstick tube is still attached to the engine, and the box will come out. BUT getting it back into the box after the box has been installed requires the bracket to be undone. If you remember, you may be able to get the tube back into the box during installation before the box is bolted up. I forgot to do this!

 

I thought I had heard that the IRS doesn't like being suspended for loóooooong periods (if a month is the real estimate) due to really only being supported by the 6 (is it) vulcanized rubber (old?) mounts. Less ya just replaced them. Still, it's several hundred pounds,,, and they could separate or be weakened...

And yes,,, dude, put something under that car that is thicker than you that will NOT allow the car to fall and hit the floor in a worst case moment. **** happens fast when 2 tons of car decides it's going to go gravities way. It will not work out good for you! Listen to what folks are saying on this.

Do it!

 

Couple of pieces of thick logs under.

 

No.progress today.

Link for reference with some info for myself

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ission-133739/

 

That is a great write up on rebuilding a auto, I think I would give it a go also if needed.
Fingers crossed - not any time soon.

I think the seal drift set would be a major plus along with a DTI and mag base.

 

Not sure if I posted this. I've watched it like 20 times so far.

 

Wow! Epic thread Rescue. Lots of detail in there for everyone to take advantage of. Saw those diff internal pics too. I've got the 3-bolt DANA, so not quite the same.

 

Put some jack stands under the rear axle for support, spare tire under on of the front wheels




sized up motorcycle lift as transmission lift. It will do. Plan is lower it as low as I can then slide the transmission off onto cardboard then pull it the rust of the way out from underneath the car.




engine is supported by jack / wood from oil pan to front sub frame.

Removed trans mount (getting fast at it now haha)

Removed crossmember note on this. There are 2 bolts that go into the tunnel on either side of the transmission. Remove these first. I couldn't see these and thought it was just the other 6 bolts lol. So 8 in total. There are 3 different sizes of bolts so keep track. But all are 1/2. Use a ratchet boxed end wrench for the 2 up in the tunnel. I dont have a 1/2 one so used a 13mm instead. Worked fine i used 1/2 to loosen.

First pic is that bolt up in tunnel.


Greasy lol. Oh well no rust haha.

Done for the day. Just trying to do a little each day to keep me feeling accomplished.

 

Update.

steps include

1. Disconnect battery ground cable and remove transmission dipstick.
2. Remove bolt securing dipstick upper tube, then remove upper tube.Where is it? Top or bottom access? Answered. 7/16 access by feel from top
3. Position fender supports to allow installation of engine support tool, then attach engine support tool No. MS53B or equivalent, to engine lift brackets. Tighten tool hook to support engine weight.using jack/wood underneath
4. Disconnect intermediate exhaust pipes and heat shields, then disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold.
5. Remove front and rear heat shields and rear support center nut.
6. Remove spacer, then using a jack, support rear mounting plate.
7. Remove bolts securing rear mount, then remove rear spacers. Lower jack and remove rear mount.
8. With rear of transmission supported with jack, remove crossmember.
9. Disconnect driveshaft from transmission and position aside.
10. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission, then disconnect shift linkage. my speedo is in the differential
11. Disconnect kickdown switch electrical connector and remove bolt securing switch wiring clip from transmission.
12. Disconnect modulator vacuum line, then remove clamp securing modulator and the modulator. Some fluid will drain from modulator housing when modulator is removed.
13. Disconnect oil cooler lines from transmission, then remove bolt securing oil line clamp to engine sump.
14. Remove torque converter access cover. Remove bolts attaching converter to driveplate. Does the converter come out after? Answered!
15. Remove right side steering rack bellows heat shield, then remove right side catalyst from exhaust manifold, if equipped. Why? Anyone? Buller? Buller?
16. Remove engine to transmission attaching bolts except two lower left side bolts and lower starter attaching bolt.
17. Remove lower dipstick tube. Attach transmission jack to transmission and remove remaining engine to transmission bolts. Lower transmission and remove from below vehicle. Use caution not to damage right side catalytic converter when removing transmission.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.

where I'm at so far. Just puttering. Comments in red.

 

Rescue
See me previous post number 666, i have already answered a couple of them.

 

Oh ya I just copied and pasand should have changed my comments lol.

But if the top starter bolt for sure a 7/16 12 point? Odd why they would do that but its jaguar lol.

I need to go buy some extensions too lol. I think the biggest ive seen is 20" 3/8

 

The top bolt is a 12 point bolt head requiring a 7/16ths 12 point (double hex) socket. It is small because to get the bolt into position at all required the casting to be made with the casing having a horizontal groove in it. So the smallest practical bolt head was used to avoid having the make the groove even deeper and thus weakening the casing too much. A 3/8ths drive socket and extension is required.
It is best to use an extension with a wobble head on it, so the socket has a bit of wriggle ability.

 

Ok thanks for that explanation.

 

Rescue
It is quite tricky to actually get the socket squarely on that particular bolt. The more you can angle the engine/tranny downwards, to give a bit more room at the top of the box, the easier things are. There is just enough room, if this is done, to get your hand up round the bellhousing/engine flange, and actually feel if the socket is properly on the bolt. The last thing you want is to knacker the bolt head...

 

Luckily...or maybe not...I have long skinny fingers and can get into those tight places fairly easily.