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the fuel vapour purge system. All this can be removed and the tank vented to air through the thin metal pipe that emerges in front of the LHS rear wheelarch (the one connected by a rubber pipe to the purge canister in the engine bay LHS.
the start up/distributor vac/dumping system. As you have a Lucas car, this can be disconnected/removed and a vac line run direct from the inlet manifold to the vac capsule on the distributo (you should find an unused blanked spigot under the A bank throttle body that is handy for this mod). Also check the vac capsule holds vac and does move the dizzy spindle.
the vac line to the cruise control, leave this intact
the vac line from the gearbox, leave this intact.
The line from the dizzy top to the AAV rubber, this must be kept to ventilate the dizzy.
see my pics in regards to all this.
Also I found this post as I think this is my next job now. i printed the picture off as well. so the dizzy and related plug wires stay there while i lift this off right? anything else to add? Thanks in advance
Remove air box covers
disconnect crank breather pipe from B bank air cleaner
Undo fuel supply and return pipes from where they first join to the manifolds
disconnect throttle rods
unplug injector loom
Undo brake servo vac connection to A bank, pull off vac connectors from end of A bank
Pull off vac connectors to cruise control and advance/return gizmos
If Lucas disconnect amplifier plugs/leads
undo AAV pipe from top of AAV
undo the flexible from the middle of the crosspipe that goes down the gearbox top. String it first as if you drop it down there, it is impossible to get it back, engine in car!
undo large vac feed pipe to cruise bellows (either from under A bank throttle body, or the other end)
I think that is it, but anything else still there undo
If you have a fuel cooler, you will have to undo it or degas the aircon
Undo CAREFULLY the 24 manifold securing nuts
with a friend lift off the lot as a unit (see pic below)
IMMEDIATELY stuff rags into the inlet tracts in the head before doing anything else at all!
So the air pump there wthere things attaches. That one hose that went to the airbox.
Then this hose the one on the right with the white stripe
It goes into a T which is connected to that sensor (pink top) on the right of it and also up the that area with the other hoses (trans vacuum) on the back of the RHS manifold.
What should I do with it? It is not clear from your post what that white striped hose is attached to at each end. Needs a pic from further away to see what bit of the engine it is on. If it was attached to the air pump it just needs blanking off.
And then this hard pipe that goes somewhere underneath.
Do I cap it? Or leave it open. I think it draws the warm exhaust as part of that 45 second timer thing. That pipe is the pipe that takes the air from the air pump to the air injectors on the top of the engine. Just leave it open. You cannot remove it easily, if at all, unless the engine is out of the car. Have you removed the air injection pipes and manifold tubes from the engine yet, and blanked off the manifold holes? This must be done.
As for the new header tank: buy a new or good second hand OEM style one, (SNG barratt have them) nothing else for it unless you completely re-do the entire system, which is pretty much impossible on a ABS car.
Last edited by Greg in France; Mar 18, 2021 at 02:21 AM.
I got recalled from leave so work tomorrow then I am gonna next week. Back for 3 weeks then gone for 3 more weeks. At least after the 2nd trip I'll have 14 days quarantine to work on the jag. We'll I hope. Lol
Hopefully I can get the manifold off today and figure out that V mess.
Yes, that is fine. Alternatively, you could just tap the actual manifold and screw in a short bolt or allen key -headed grub screw directly to block the hole.
As it looks like you have the B bank airbox off, as long as you undo the fuel line to the cooler, the one coming over the top of the manifold, and undo the fixings holding the cooler to the engine, you can get the manifold off, just by easing the aircon hoses/cooler assembly out of the way. Might need Madame to help though!
If not the aircon does have to be ungassed so the cooler can be disconnected from the aircon hoses. Leaving the cooler still attached to the manifold. In the olden days, one could just crack a hose joint and let the gas out. Nowadays you need to get an aircon specialist to do it.
Yes I tested the a/c last summer. It worked slightly. Definitely needs a refresh.
Anyways so that guide on how to remove the air rails was ok but for me to remove mine I had to remove a fuel line, detach and move the cruise control cable, move the Lucas box and move some more beeps and bobs. Oh and the 6 torx heads that you start with. All but one were stripped. Looks like someone decided to make them a Phillips instead. Nothing a pair of vice grips couldn't fix.
Anywyas they are out. Greg I like the idea of tapping the manifolds when they are out. On the list.
Is this the connection u are talking about to remove. If I move it here that will free me from the cooler and a/c system.
So this is what I've done today. And smashing my elbow a few times lol.
Doesn't look like much but took me 4 hrs lol.
Engine bay already looks better with the absence of stuff
Also u guys had me paranoid about that hose in the middle so I tied it with wire, used a bungee cord, and also zipped tied it to the pipe thats beside it lol
Also i had ordered 2 thermostats as per here. Superstats.
Top stuff Rescue! Yes, that is the hose that needs to be detached from the cooler.
well it's better than being underneath for once lol.
Awesome thanks.
Also realized that my 11 year olds old but clean socks and underwear he was throwing out are the perfect size for small rags and to plug the manifold holes up hehe.
Think this would be a decent replacement/ upgrade. Would just need the pullie off the old one. And It should fit into the air pump location.
Just making a list of things and trying to find parts I'll need
Replace the alternator with more amps and move to air pump location
Electric fans. im looking at a pair of 12.5" electric performance fans that are total 2500 cfm but draw 25amps each. Not set on that combo but something slim and efficient.
Yes, but they are not big enough and the blade shape is not modern. I have a 16.5 inch 27 amp and a 12 inch 19 amp. Twin 14s would go in OK and be OK. The rule is get the largest you can. Mine JUST go in with the large one overlapping the rad side a touch. I run no shroud either and fixing them without one I do NOT recommend! So get or make a shroud that holds the two largest you can get into it, is my advice.
Forgot to mention I'm glad I'm rebuilding the fi harness. As I was moving it I could hear the wires breaking inside. Why they ran it they was they did doesn't make since.
