The absolute best thing that you can do on these cars especially when they have stood is to go thoroughly and methodically through every plug, every relay, every fuse box terminal (throw away all old fuses and replace with new) and every connector with contact cleaner and tips - do not be tempted to use abrasives they are only a quick fix and connections actually degrade faster once this is done.

It is a bear of a job but the only way to eliminate the gremlins from the Lucas temple ...

 

My plan is to put in a digital dash when I do the interior.

Worse cWorssince I just run the car to move it around is I manually turn on the 16 and 12 inch fan.

Man they push air.

 

 

Hahha nice

 

Talk to me about the power locks.

So when i put the key in the door the power locks dont do anything. Lock or unlock

If i have the window down (door closed) and lock it from the inside by reach my hand through the open window, I can hear the motors run, and it goes like 5 times, almost like on off on off like it's trying to lock. Then it stops. And doors are locked lol.

Basically I just want to lock the doors for the trip out west on the trailer. But I can't seem to do it unless I have the windows down to do it.

I dont have anything inside worth taking and I'm not worried about it but just want to know how the system is suppose to work?


Also how high do I need to lift the Jag to remove the front craddle?

I'm look at getting some sort of life at my new place and I'm leaning towards a quickjack system which I think is better value and since this isn't my forever home i can move it easier then a 2 post lift installed.

 

Don't know about the door locks as I've not got that far and never really cared since my door locks when turning the key anyhow. On the lift systems I can't recommend the quickjack highly enough - my car's been sat on a pair for 2 years now (that sucks - doesn't time fly). You need the 5000 EXT's, I made supports for the jacking points by drilling holes in 4 hockey pucks these in turn sit on the quickjack provided rubber blocks. I'd buy a battery to use with the jacks if you don't have spares laying around. Edit : You may be better off with the 5000 SLX and buy the SLX extension plates (which is what I did since I plan to use these on smaller vehicles - when the Jag isn't sat on them

If I was ever going for a permanent install it would not be a two post system - these are OK for general service but not for major works that may shift the weight too much.

 

Thanks for the input. I already have the hockey pucks with the holes.

Just getting tired of having a sore back as being 6 2 and working on a engine that is just above my knees.


https://www.quickjacklift.ca/car-lifts/bl-7000ext/

This is the same as the 5000 but increased up to 7k. I have a jeep too I need to work on lol.

 

Then still go for the SLX - you can add the extension plate accessory and it makes them a little more universal. Not sure the Jeeps heavier than the cat ....

 

the door locks can be a bit fiddly... You'll need to remove door cards to get to them of course... It's a FULL TRAVEL problem and the locking mechanisms, once reached (door cards off) will show you the way - you're good at stuff.

Lube them up, thru the strikers at the door jam, "exercise the hell out of them,,,, may produce some better control - but it's really just a matter (most likely) of old grease, dust, dirt etc, that prohibits the locking solenoids from completing there travel. If ONE doesn't go right, the other will follow, to unlock...

My LH door lock will lock everything (including trunk) 80% of the time on first shot, 100% on second and third. Wasn't always like this, especially the trunk. RH, perfect. Locks all. I can absolutely FEEL the difference in the two locks with the key in the slot. Key definitely falls into a resting place at the key and tumbler travel on the RH side, not on the left.

In NYC it's NOT a good idea to have lock problem, so unless I KNOW it's something that can be done in a day with locks,,, I leave well enough alone. I envy others country and suburban living situations 🤣

Go on JLC to get a really nice shot of all the links, rods, bits and pieces in the door and go from there... Those diagrams are the best!

 

Me 2 door jeep is 3960#s stock and my wifes jeep grand cherokee L is 4619#s stock

 

Thanks ya i dont even lovk my doors half the time.

Maybe its the gun signs i have posted lol

 

Hells bells - come a long way from the old *****'s days eh ...

 

Yep the new JLs are great.

 

Hey any of you know how much fuel is needed in the tank to get the fuel light to come off? If I go put 25 liters (1/4 tank) in it should go off right?

 

Yes, assuming the float isn't partially filled with gas/petrol. Does the gauge show 1/4 tank?

 

It's never show anything. I've only put 10L a time in it so not sure if the gauge doesn't work or I just done have enough it it. The low light is on. Only light that is on in the dash. Good thing I think lol.


Also anyone know the wiper size for these cars?

I think PO put 2 15s on but they over lap the trim. im thinking 14 and 13?

 

So remember me mentioning my 12 inch fan would come on as soon as I turned the fan speed *** on the dash. Well now it doesn't. Idk why it won't now. So wierd. Didn't change anything.

 

Four gallons, 18 litres on mine. Which is the factory spec per the handbook.

 

Thanks. I'll have to go grab another 10L. I'm sure it's bad connections behind the dash but would be nice to have no dash lights on.

 

If you haven't already

While the fuel is low and below the sender port, maybe pull the sender and test it by hand. Clean it up, see what ya got. I don't know where the sender access hole is on yours but mine is a fair ways up the tank. Might be worth a look see before more fuel is added...?