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Rear skirt is three piece so you must be joined, attached are some pics from rear. If you want to know more on how it is fastened let me know
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I personally Like that treatment, Quite a lot in fact!
I always thought the XJS was too high in the back anyway.
It always looked to me like it got its butt kicked; or worse, as I grew up on the farm other images came to mind. (ducking for cover.....)
But this is nice. Very nice!
(';')
Ones advantage is anothers disadvantage - I have more in common with Richard Hammond - aka vertically challenged - with the XJS on the quickjhacks I need steps - but they change little since bending over for prolonged periods is no fun whatever height it is at. I stuck a transmission jack under the rear sub so it wasn't hanging from the rubber mounts, even though they are getting replaced I saw signs that they were tearing and I want this on the floor in a controlled manner.
Wouldn't be without them though, it is so much easier to do stuff under the cars now. The rubber blocks on mine are showing their age now - they've had an XJS sat on them for two years so I need to replace them.
Ones advantage is anothers disadvantage - I have more in common with Richard Hammond - aka vertically challenged - with the XJS on the quickjhacks I need steps - but they change little since bending over for prolonged periods is no fun whatever height it is at. I stuck a transmission jack under the rear sub so it wasn't hanging from the rubber mounts, even though they are getting replaced I saw signs that they were tearing and I want this on the floor in a controlled manner.
Wouldn't be without them though, it is so much easier to do stuff under the cars now. The rubber blocks on mine are showing their age now - they've had an XJS sat on them for two years so I need to replace them.
Ya i plan on putting jacks as well for added security. Most of my work will be dropping the front sub frame this winter one I figure replace the tps and find out where my new oil leak is.
Put the new to me wheels and tires on just to get them out of the way so I can redo the orginal ones. Rear will need fender work for sure. Fronts not too bad. 82.8/73.8 hub centric spacers worked great. Got to figure out a solution to cover the hubs up but that's like 2 years down the road lol
Started playing around with switching the old tps to a Ford one.
Took some figuring out but the hardest part was getting the shaft right. Was trail and error really. I may make a shaft from metal if i can find the right size tubing.
Initial numbers show .329v at idle position and 4.65v at wot.
From what I've read you can grind the stops inside the ford tps (requires taking it apart) to increase the range to get up to 5.0v. I had a hard time finding the ford tps (93 4 cylinder mustang) so I don't want to take apart the one I have incase a botch it.
soldering was simple as the screenshot i had posted in the other post about TPS's was correct in wiring up the ford tps to the stock wiring plug. That post has great information.
I drilled and tapped 2 holes for #6-32 bolts for the mounting.
I need to make some spacers still just so there's no flex on the sides when tightening down.
Only took a few hrs of playing around. now its just tidying it up so i can forget about it
Could you post a few more pics please Rescue, and a link to where you can buy the TPS from?
I will when I get home today.
I found the TPS on eBay. took like a month to show up and it was in a dusty box so its been on the shelf for a long time I would think. I used the ac delco number 213-848 from ebay seller mpc-autoparts. It was the only one they had in stock.
I went down the rabbit hole last night regarding TPS sensors and there are some out there that might work but would be trail and error. main thing that is required is a 270 degree swing and the required voltage range.
I wonder if there is a way to adapt a contactless one? Ive seen a few online that might work that race cars use. and the voltages can be programmed via computer. that would be the future right there.
Rescue
I know the OEM TPS runs on 5v but can you tell me the sweep angle required please? I am very interested in a programmable one and they do it at the factory to the spec required, I think.
It is items like this which will be an increasing problem in the future, I believe.
Rescue
I know the OEM TPS runs on 5v but can you tell me the sweep angle required please? I am very interested in a programmable one and they do it at the factory to the spec required, I think.
It is items like this which will be an increasing problem in the future, I believe.
The swing is 270 degrees.
The ones I found (mostly in auzzie land and UK) had a range of .5v to 5v. I think I found one that went down to .2v but at 399 pounds little pricey for blood. It also rotated 360 degrees but that is because you can set it wherever you wanted.
Also need to make sure it's a 3 wire. Most were 8mm D shaft. I didn't measure the v12 one but it looks about the same.
Here are some pics I grabbed of the ford tps. Also the bolts i used are #6-32 @ 1 inch long.
THanks Rescue. as the XJS V12 capstan has a 90° sweep how do you make it work, please?
Hmmm maybe Im wrong about it. Maybe its 360 - 270 so 90. I was going by what i read. Unless the 270 is a internal measurement inside the tps. When I took apart the orginal tps to get the shaft out there was a wide birth of a circuit which looked about 270 wide.
In that other post someone took apart the ford tps and there is a stop inside that limits the swing of the tps. By shaving half a mm off the stop it increased the range of the tps voltage.
The programmable ones I have seen for sale say the can do a full 360 as well as either be set for cw or ccw rotation. Which would be the cuircuit inside is a full 360.
