I joined this "multi-forum" site 8 years ago on the XK8 forum as I had just purchased a 2000 XKR Coupe. Learned about ALL the stuff that goes wrong; and tore into the top end to replace the plastic timing chain tensioners, spark plugs, cam cover gaskets, water pump etc. Recently I bought a non-running 1990 V12 Convert; but having previously visited this XJS Forum had learned about the Marelli ignition issues, rotor burn through and crank sensors etc; which was the problem with this car. I don't think I would buy a JAG, any Jag, without the knowledge bestowed upon us by the true EXPERTS here....to them (You know who you are) I THANK YOU IMMENSELY. So now I have earned my XJS "Right of Passage". After enjoying it just a little; I jumped in and.........
Cleaned out the Vee (what an oily mess it was), New plugs (old ones were correct NGK and looked pretty good actually, but were gapped at .040 versus .025), HT leads (old ones had some cracked boots), did Palmer's dizzy shaft nub and silicone squirt.; new cap and rotor of course. Replaced cam cover seals (it already had the Gortex type, which I thought came about later from Ford (mine's a 90), so maybe they were replaced yet the Vee wasn't cleaned? Eliminated the Smog pump and pipes. Bought a 140amp CS130 alternator and moved it up to the smog pump location. Removed the radiator to have it rodded, but was delighted to discover its been replaced or re-cored; had shop add a drain **** though. Made some simple water filters/screens out of SS kitchen strainer mesh, and formed them into the upper inlets (temporary). Expansion tank appears to be newer also (in very nice condition). New hoses, including heater valve outlet feed hose (what a pain). Installed a custom made dual electric fan set up. (Removed from a 92 coupe I just bought...more on this new car later). Fixed some broken electrical connectors, installed newer injector harness that came on the parts car (yeah), and cleaned up and re-wrapped a bunch of wiring. Haven't driven her yet...but already I can tell she runs sooo smooth now. No more shaking at idle...I think I'll try the "Nickel Test".

All pretty now

Wouldn't work on hobby cars without a lift (Sharp eyes will see the latest acquisition a Facelift V12 Coupe. It's too nice to be a parts car but I did take the custom dual electric fan unit off it. BTW they only made 1199 Facelift 5.3L cars...wow; more on it later)

Lifting front end allows for easily bleeding coolant air bubbles.


Sacrificial parts car (good engine), rusty body, only 2 months older than Convert so same componentry. Got this for the rear hubs (hubs on Covert cracked...very wierd) but it has yielded many good parts. Was only $700 USD worth every penny.

 

Spectacular, your work thusfar is exactly what that car needed.

You can also delete the carbon canister nonsense, and look into proper spin-on coolant filtration. Not those tebfa coffee strainers that don't grab anything.

Also for smoother running and huge heat/friction reduction look into Archoil oil and fuel additives, or LiquiMoly Ceratec (same concept). The v12 responds well to racing grade oil modifiers it'll rev faster aswell.

 

Terrific job, and exactly the right way to do things. Congratulations.

 

So doesn't the canister help reduce vapors and prevent smelling fumes in the cabin?
Also prevent vapor lock in hot climates...like Florida?
And prevents loss of fuel due to vaporizing? These are questions...not a challenge.
As I'm all for eliminating complexity, weight and maybe freeing up space for a future cold air intake inlet.

 

Another common little mod/fix, have you replaced the throttle shaft bushings? It is popular to replace these with bronze, rather than the stock rubber. Takes slop out of the linkages.

Btw the heater hoses don't have to be that bad. Cut a line parallel to the hose with a razor blade to easily remove the old and put some soap around the new one to slide it on easily.

 

I haven't yet as they aren't sloppy....Can you give me some specs on the bronze bushings so I can shop for some? Or the part number from your source. (I'm just being lazy I guess).
It's the access to the one I was referring to that's a PITA e.g. the lower one on the left side (input)...it's done. But the hose XKS Unlimited sent for the return has the wrong turns in it.

 

Can you give me some specs on the bronze bushings so I can shop for some? Or the part number from your source. (I'm just being lazy I guess).
It's the access to the one I was referring to that's a PITA e.g. the lower one on the left side (input)...it's done. But the hose XKS Unlimited sent for the return has the wrong turns in it.

 

Grant told me to do it so I did. Do we need any more explanation?

I'm sure on paper it has a function, however there is no ill effect from tossing it, I left the long metal pipe open inside the front fender well if fuel vapour somehow goes down..around and 10ft forward to escape then it deserves to be free! If your concerned with vapour lock perhaps coating the fuel rail in thermal reflective material or ceramic type coating would be ok? It gets to be about 95F here in the summer havn't seen any issues.

As for weight and engine bay heat the biggest improvement I had was cutting the front face off the air intake boxes, fitted a nice mesh screen then ditched the smog pump it really obstructs the flow - where as now the air from the fans blows more freely past the exhaust manifolds etc.

 

I eliminated the Smog Pump and Bosch Alt...GM CS130 now in it's place. Cool Air intake and trumpet mods on my to do list....and probably eliminating the Vapor canister system as well.

 

Elimimating the vapour contraption allows for extra space for all kinds of goodies, I want to relocate my coolant filter assy to the front fender well and have a body shop cut in some (tasteful) vents