Safety wiring - still required?
#1
Safety wiring - still required?
Hey there!
I was just ordering my safety wiring kit as I was thinking: do I really need it?
Since I took my front axle to pieces, I noticed that my calipers weren't safety wired, even though the manual and drawing state it is mandatory. In places like the rear subframe where the diff is mounted fo the frame and the screws aren't accessable, I can understand it, but is it really required?
I will be doing this - of course - but wanted your opinions... Do you safety wire? If no, what do you use to stop possible screw loosening?
I was just ordering my safety wiring kit as I was thinking: do I really need it?
Since I took my front axle to pieces, I noticed that my calipers weren't safety wired, even though the manual and drawing state it is mandatory. In places like the rear subframe where the diff is mounted fo the frame and the screws aren't accessable, I can understand it, but is it really required?
I will be doing this - of course - but wanted your opinions... Do you safety wire? If no, what do you use to stop possible screw loosening?
#2
Safety wire is the old fashioned way of doing things, and does require the proper technique to actually have it work properly. The easiest way is to use a thread locker like Loctite.
I much prefer to use a thread locker because it fills in the minor gaps between the threads in the bolt and the tapped hole and prevents water from getting in and rusting the threads. It is also resistant to vibration and keeping the preload that you induce when torquing the bolt to spec. Wire doesn't do that, and a bolt can vibrate loose enough to lose the preload.
Use the blue locker, as that is designed to be disassembled. I like Loctite 243. Red is designed to not come apart unless it's heated to over 200C. You won't be able to remove a bolt that is treated with red fluid unless you apply heat and that's not what you want for brake and suspension components.
I much prefer to use a thread locker because it fills in the minor gaps between the threads in the bolt and the tapped hole and prevents water from getting in and rusting the threads. It is also resistant to vibration and keeping the preload that you induce when torquing the bolt to spec. Wire doesn't do that, and a bolt can vibrate loose enough to lose the preload.
Use the blue locker, as that is designed to be disassembled. I like Loctite 243. Red is designed to not come apart unless it's heated to over 200C. You won't be able to remove a bolt that is treated with red fluid unless you apply heat and that's not what you want for brake and suspension components.
#3
#4
The following users liked this post:
oldGwichkid008 (12-07-2023)
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,738
Received 10,746 Likes
on
7,099 Posts
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
Dr Quail (02-02-2017),
Greg in France (09-15-2016)
#6
Jaguar likes thread locker because it is far cheaper to
install. Especially with pretreated fasteners.
But, it has no inherent advantage over safety wire and
some disadvantages such as requiring meticulous surface
prep and, for some grades, heat on removal.
On the other hand safety wire avoids those two disadvantages
and carries with it the advantage of easy visual confirmation
that it is present.
Red Loctite is now the defacto choice for securing ring gear
bolts. Then the bolts work out and chew up the gears and
lots of "analysis" takes place on the rock crawler forums
speculating on improper application of the threadlocker.
Well ahem, the threadlocker is released by heat. The gear
lube on a rock crawler can easily climb over the heat threshold.
Oooops.
install. Especially with pretreated fasteners.
But, it has no inherent advantage over safety wire and
some disadvantages such as requiring meticulous surface
prep and, for some grades, heat on removal.
On the other hand safety wire avoids those two disadvantages
and carries with it the advantage of easy visual confirmation
that it is present.
Red Loctite is now the defacto choice for securing ring gear
bolts. Then the bolts work out and chew up the gears and
lots of "analysis" takes place on the rock crawler forums
speculating on improper application of the threadlocker.
Well ahem, the threadlocker is released by heat. The gear
lube on a rock crawler can easily climb over the heat threshold.
Oooops.
The following 2 users liked this post by plums:
Grant Francis (09-14-2016),
Greg in France (09-15-2016)
#7
I think the safety wire was (is?) a requirement from US authorities.
Safety wire is a visible and therefore easy-to-inspect way to secure critical components.
I do not use it where bolts can be tightened properly. Brake caliper bolts does in my opinion come into that category. A tight bolt will not come loose, thread is self locking as long as the bolt is under tension.
Loctite is also fine, but don't rely on it if there is a risk of overheating.
Safety wire is a visible and therefore easy-to-inspect way to secure critical components.
I do not use it where bolts can be tightened properly. Brake caliper bolts does in my opinion come into that category. A tight bolt will not come loose, thread is self locking as long as the bolt is under tension.
Loctite is also fine, but don't rely on it if there is a risk of overheating.
The following users liked this post:
Dr Quail (02-02-2017)
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
#11
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Yeah, safety wire is old tech. Not only does it work, but, it looks so "neat".
When, I did the project before the Jaguar, I did a "Hot Rod of the Forties" build. I made a "template" for locating bolts to be drilled for safety wire. And, somewhere, I found the tool to twist it neatly. A couple of coils of it in my kit. I've used it for other stuff.
And, in my printed Jaguar lore is a treatise on it's use. Authored by an aircraft tech. More than fasteners are secured by it's use.
I use Loctite as well, judiciously, though, both varieties.
Carl
When, I did the project before the Jaguar, I did a "Hot Rod of the Forties" build. I made a "template" for locating bolts to be drilled for safety wire. And, somewhere, I found the tool to twist it neatly. A couple of coils of it in my kit. I've used it for other stuff.
And, in my printed Jaguar lore is a treatise on it's use. Authored by an aircraft tech. More than fasteners are secured by it's use.
I use Loctite as well, judiciously, though, both varieties.
Carl
#12
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Dr Quail (02-02-2017)
#13
ah.... a good idea that goes to waste....
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (09-17-2016)
#14
Greg
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (09-17-2016)
#15
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Indeed, I have one Whitworth box wrench on my tool board. As I recall, the nuts on the U joints needed it!!!
I've removed and replaced the nuts on each of the battery posts on he fire wall of my XJ wuzza six. 1/2" or perhaps 9/16" SAE. Perhaps,
merely close enough??? If I the thread that is different, good thing, I did not loose the nuts!!! I'm good at that.
Interesting Saturday AM trivia, w/o question.
Old tractors, oh yeah. My son has a circa 60's Case. Swapped a Renault coupe for it. Needed some fixing of PO bodges. Now works as needed.
Carl
I've removed and replaced the nuts on each of the battery posts on he fire wall of my XJ wuzza six. 1/2" or perhaps 9/16" SAE. Perhaps,
merely close enough??? If I the thread that is different, good thing, I did not loose the nuts!!! I'm good at that.
Interesting Saturday AM trivia, w/o question.
Old tractors, oh yeah. My son has a circa 60's Case. Swapped a Renault coupe for it. Needed some fixing of PO bodges. Now works as needed.
Carl
#16
except for certain race sanctioning bodies as applied to competition vehicles.
However, safety wiring is a frequent requirement in aviation around the world.
In the case of Jaguar, it may be just Jaguar being careful in the era of the
E-Type which had highly stressed and complex components in a very
light vehicle likely to be driven frequently at high speed.
Steel may have also been less consistent in elasticity, leading to less
trust in torque values.
I do not use it where bolts can be tightened properly. Brake caliper bolts does in my opinion come into that category. A tight bolt will not come loose, thread is self locking as long as the bolt is under tension.
the fastener from rotating out of tension when subjected to stress and vibration.
Last edited by plums; 09-17-2016 at 02:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Dr Quail (02-02-2017)
#17
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dsetter
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
0
09-13-2016 12:09 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)