Hello Everyone.

It's been a while. Winter here, full time work and full time school. But I am still intent on bringing this 1990 XJS Convertible, been sitting in a backyard for nearly 12 years, back to life and,,, I AM.

One thing I understood I'd have to do as part of this was to solve a problem with a slow leak somewhere in the PSteering system. I identified 1 of the 4 tube/pipe fittings on the steering rack body as pitted/rusted and leaking. 1 of the others was pitted/rusted and close to leaking as well, that it was just a matter of time. I had a very difficult time finding the high and low pressure replacement lines and could not --- the two short preshaped lines that deliver the high and low pressure fluid to and from the rack. So, silly me, I tried to fabricate and replace the lines twisting and turning with identical size brake line. No dice. Steel and not easy to bend and shape. I didn't like the results,,, it was MUCH tougher than I thought,,, so I decided to just replace the whole rack.

I ended up with a rack from a 1992 XJS from Florida. Fairly cheap. Good shape. Looks new. I also decided to replace inner and outer rods and joints in the process... I removed the old and here is what happened. I seem to have lost my way, lol...

The post on top of the rack body (where the steering column meets the rack) has a cut out notch that accepts the bolt that holds the/a clamp in place. I THOUGHT the notch clamp situation was kinda preset and would "take care of itself" on assembly... The clamp and bolt will not fit unless the rack cylinder notch, the bolt and clamp are lined up properly (no easy task). Then, you can slide the bolt home and thru which works to keep things together and in place. Super tight in there and getting things lined up is a knuckle buster. Tightening once set in is pretty easy (12mm with long extension). I got it together BUT it seems things are off. The steering wheel is not centered as I bring the wheels/tires to "straight" turning the wheel. I know that I'll need it to be aligned professionally at the end of all of this but thought I could get it close. When I took things apart,,, the RH tie joint/end was 15 turns off off the rod,,,, the LH was 14 turns off. Now, to get things back anywhere NEAR tires lined is RH 25 turns onto rod and the LH is less than 10 onto rod and things are NOT right, obviously. Steering wheel is at 90 off.

I feel like when I take it all apart and put it back together again that pushing the piston left or right to turn the notched rack cylinder (where the steering column clamp meets the rack) one full turn either way (which is the only option) will NOT bring it to where I need things. Just the reverse of what I have, considering the SINGLE notched cut out on rack post. Does this make ANY sense, lol?

Does anyone have any secrets as to how to reset steering wheel, rack cylinder notch, clamp and bolt and what should I be looking for to understand that the piston is in the right position at rest, wheels straight...?

What a PITA!!!

HEEEEELP, lol... Any guidance or suggestion is MUCH appreciated.

And, latest pic from last summer.

 

Hi Jay

When you look at the Rack from under the Car you should see a grease fitting with a plug in it

With the Track Rod Ball Joints disconnected remove the plug in the grease fitting and then get a small (Thin) Screwdriver

and poke it into the hole

Then move the Chromium Piston Arms 'In or Out' until your 'Thin Screwdriver' locates the 'Center' of the Rack, which I 'Think'

could be a hole (it felt like a hole)

Leaving the Screwdriver in the Hole (to keep the Rack centered) Next line up your Steering Wheel, as it would be if you

were driving Straight ahead

Then Line up your Road Wheels as best you can, as they would be if you were driving straight and then adjust the

Track Rod Arms

Where the number of Threads on each Arm should be about the same

As I also 'Lost my way' as to how many 'Threads' it should be, so I counted the number of Threads on one of my other XJS's

To give me a rough idea

Then did up the 'Ball Joints' and then slowly drove it round the garden, where it seemed to be Steering much better than OK

After which I took it to a Shop to have the Steering Re-aligned, where it turned out that 'more by luck than judgment'

It was almost perfect as it was

 

HellO OB... Long time!

Thank you so much... Ill be crawling back under Sat and Sunday afternoon.

Q: Does centering the pistons in the rack this way also line up the cylinder/shaft with the 'cut out notch' on the rack? You know, the notch that accepts and has to line up for the bolt? Praying so!

 

Hey... Quick question while I have you...

I have a much new nicer steering wheel. When I went to remove the old one - it has this trap door on the underside of the wheel. Its a "D" shaped securing screw that deals with the air bag. I cannnnnnnOT of the life of me turn it out. Any suggestions?

 

Hi Jay

I never removed the Rack on mine, or took out the bolt so I cannot say for sure but I would think so

But what happened on mine was I wore out a Brand New Tyre on one side of the Car!

Which was totally down to a lack of experience on my part, so I did the bit with the Screwdriver

To see if the pistons were lined up (which they were)

Then I used another one of my XJS's as a sort of a 'Controlled Sample' where I took the Thread Measurements off from that

It was a mile out same as yours but as this Car was 'new to me' I figured (correctly I think?)

That the previous owner changed one of the Track Rod ends and screwed things up (literally!)

But as it turned out my 'Guesstimate' was almost Spot on.

So once you've Centered the Rack with the Screwdriver in the hole, it should be fairly easy to find your way from there

Just make sure the Car is Safe and Steering in a Straight line, to get to the 'Shop' to have it realigned

As for the Steering Wheel I do not know, as I thought mine had an Airbag but it turns out that it doesn't

Although it looks very similar to the one that does

If you can put up a Photo, then maybe someone will know

 

centre rack as OB detailed. I use string line down each side to then line wheels up when fitting tie rods. Lower steering column secures to the rack where it must (only one possible position as you found)
Inside l usually prefer to remove not just the steering wheel but as an assembly including the knurled reach adjusting knob. This slides out on the spline as a unit after removing the fasteners and then rotate to straight ahead and slide back in. You need the upper column trim pieces off to access those fasteners. If you just remove the wheel itself to realign the indicator cancel mechanism may not function as it should without adjustent.
I have no airbag experience so can't help there.

 

Jays Car being a 1990 won't have the knurled reach adjusting knob but instead a 'Pull Back' lever, same as mine

Jay: The Airbag Wheel and the Non Airbag wheel look almost identical

My Car was Non Airbag but on your Car it might have one, what with USA regulations and all that

So you need to find out what you've got before you go any further

As you don't want it exploding in your face

Jay: Quick Update just had a thought!

I'm not 100% sure on this although I've got a feeling that the Steering Rack from a 1992 uses different Shorter Track Rod Ends

So I would check that out if I were you

 

Hello OB and Bax

SO, I went in and under. Found the rubber ribbed plug and pulled it out. When I shined a light in there to look for the hole to stick the driver in,,, there was no hole to speak of, just what looked like a steel stud. I pushed at that, no movement, thinking it might be a slide catch and be a centering pin of some sort. No movement..... Just to the RH side was/is a hex headed bolt (no more than 1 inch from the "plug" hole), I turned that out and was able to see the center indent/hole you spoke of - but it wasn't really a hole. Just an indentation that lined up with the hex bolt void. I decided I'd use that as the line up... PLEASE TELL ME IF THAT'S CRAZY!?!?!?!

From there, I undid the clamp on the post on top of the rack body (where the steering column meets the rack). OMG - PITA... Again, I needed to then lower the whole rack. Using the indentation and hex bolt hole, reattached the clamp at the steering rack/steering column, made sure things were still lined up and tightened it up regardless of where the steering wheel was.

After, I removed the old steering wheel, I have a new one without an airbag (I should have taken pictures but it so hard when working alone) in much much better shape than the OG. For the air bag screw that was KILLING me, I bought a fairly expensive set of needle nosed vise grips, cramped down hard, and turned the "D" shaped bolt OUT and PRESTO the wheel came right off. Centered the new wheel, tightened up the 19mm center bolt and POOF, good stuff.

Later, went back in a adjusted wheel alignment to the best of my ability with a 10mm wrench - I will bring it for an alignment ASAP....

So now, PUNCH ME IN THE FACE. I start the car, add some brake fluid, things look good. I come back 2 days later and I clearly have a brake fluid leak,,,, somewhere,,,, and so it goes.

Thank you BOTH so much for your input, support, suggestions and advise. Back at it tomorrow!

ps... looking to do the engine swap on my XK8 in the days to come AND I think I might be getting a GREAT deal on a 88 Porsche 928... Excited!

Stay well, stay clean

 

OH YES AND.... OB - to your point about the length difference....

The 1992 rack, rather than male fittings attaching the steering rack pistons like the 1990, the 1992 rack has female ends at the pistons. I took things to a table, lined up the old and the new inner tie rods, tried to take into account how much was gained or lost due to the M/F difference, and it seemed the same - roughly. At least not such a drastic difference once assembled that the difference would/could not be made up by adjusting at the tie rod ends in an alignment shop. We shall see.

Again, until SOON, lol --- piece and hair grease

 

Hi Jay

Glad you got her sorted out, looking good so far!

As I don't have a 92 Rack or have ever seen one in the flesh, the centering hole 'thingy' may be a little different to the 90

Although it looks like you have sussed it out, so hoping She's already driving straight and true and will only need a bit of a 'Tweak' in the

Alignment Shop

Fixing a Jaguar XJS can be like spinning plates, for as soon as you've sorted one job out another takes its place

Nice Car BTW great Color!

 

Hey OB - Hi!

Yes, Im stoked. I have a good ways to go. I think, this week, I will drive her over to a frineds and take some pictures in her garage. The friend of mine, who basically gave her to me, has been given a very short timeline to get a BUNCH of cars out of the yard where he has been keeping them. Loooong story. But it looks like I might be able to get my hands on a 1988 928 Porsche. I gotta play it right.

Im needing to get the floor (LH) welded in. Then, a full upholstery set up from Pauls Jag In Fl. Then, like you said, a ton more. I have done quite a bit already but have a loooong ways to go.

Speaking of --- have any idea how to reset a 02 sensor light, lol? OR,,, how to do the final tucking of a new roof liner in the back around the back window? I know that there are 2 runners that hold the bottom edging, but up around the top, I just cant figure out how to get it right.

So it goes,,,, so it goes. About the leak,,, GiFrance suggests I might have missed a o-ring when replacing the high pressure PS hose. Thinking back on it, it sounds right.

I'll be back here more in the next days and weeks. No doubt.