So, twice after getting the car to Seattle, it will not start. Cranks over fine, just does not fire.

Here is the strange part. I pull the A bank HT lead from the dizzy. Crank, and the car starts (B bank only). Then I replace the HT lead for the A bank, and the A fires. Car runs fine after that.

Thoughts?

 

I'm thinking the car is saying, "Give me break man, you got a back rub, but I was rode hard and put away wet. Talk to me in a week."

 

Another weird one.

Coil wire problem? And removing/refitting jostles it in just the right way? Are the coil; wire end terminals a snug fit at both ends? And clean?

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,

Everything is tight. I have new wires, new coils, new coil 4 pin connectors. It is a bit baffling

But maybe I will give it a rest, and just use my bike for the rest of the week. I'm taking advantage of the nice Seattle weather and varnishing the brighwork on the boat.

 

Jokes aside, can you give us a bit more detail. Such as was it after sitting overnight or after driving somewhere? Any consistency in when it happens versus when it doesn't? etc.

 

First time was at a petrol station, just off I90 near Seattle. Shut the engine off to fuel up. Wouldn't start. Pushed it over to the parking area. Thinking it hot fuel/vapor lock, I let it sit for about 10 minutes. No go. So I thought it had to be spark. Pulled the HT lead for A to check the spark. Fired right up, so I replaced the lead and the A bank fired up.

Today, so members at the cul wanted to hear it run. I had already opened the bonnet. No start. So, pulled the A ht lead again. And it started right up again.

If it does it tomorrow I will pull the B bank ht and if the results are the same.

I was wondering about the crank position sensor. But the car only has 55,000 miles on it.

Strange, eh?

 

It almost sounds like the coil finds a better path to ground for both banks somewhere through the bank A HT lead during start and when there is vacuum in the engine (less air) the plug gap is now the easier path to ground.

 

So is that one hot start and one cold start?

 

Right. One cold and one hot

 

XJeffs,

Thinking about your theory. It is dark. Perfect time to check for spark leaks, went to the parking lot with a friend, of course the car started right up. But he saw a sparkle of blue when I turned on the ignition key, but before I cranked. It was on the top of the distributor cap.

And I now remember when I pulled the cap in Colorado to replace the rotor, there was no paper gasket. Could it be that the gasket is not for sealing for weather, but electrical insulation?

 

When I first read you post, it sounded like either a defective or damaged cap or rotor.
They are fragile even when new.
Inspect the INSIDES for arcing (almost invisible marks).
Wild guess would be the cap is now to close to the distributor internals.
Gasket might serve as a space too.

 

I really think the paper gasket is for sealing. The cap itself is a plastic material which is a great insulator so I don't think the gasket would help much more.

The fact that the old rotor burned up, means there is a problem somewhere. Do you think the cap could be causing your problems? Or maybe the paper gasket is needed to put the cap at the right height compared to the rotor.

 

Apologies if I sound like a broken record, but have you checked the gap of every spark plug?

 

I agree with this...

Hasty plugging in of the coil wires, even normal careful, can bend the male ends inside of the cavity on top of the coil. Try looking into and down into both of the coils to make sure that the male spade ends didnt get pushed off to the side when refitting the female ends/plug... I had the same problem,,, and for a while the car ran, until it didnt anymore... Took a pick, straigtened out the spade/male end and it fired right up.

 

One other possibility is the HT leads on that bank are connected incorrectly.

 

I found a problem. My new coils have a pin in then, with no brass contact lining the walls of the ht lead socket. Tried to get a picture, but it was too dark.

So of course the ht lead is not making proper contact.

Anyone see this setup before?

 

Yes! Same exact thing with my new coils. Stopped me in my tracks. I am headed into work and (unless someone offers some good next step,,, and your in the States) I'll try and find the contact info of the folks at United Motor Products (I think it is) that was helpful enough to make up a pair of coil wires for me. Great guy.

 

Jay,

That would be a huge help. For the moment, I think I am going to grt a brass rod and machine up a brass insert to fit over the pin and inside the coil wire connector.

I have to wonder why the change?

 

I found the culprit. The fuel pump relay was not fully seated in its socket. Took a 5 lb hammer to it. Voila!

 

Culprit for what, Scott?