Subframe motor mounts.
#41
its only grounded at the amp end.
after fixing this wire, it still runs like ****. no change. after a 5 minute warm up it started surging, and promptly died.
Whats wrong with my V12? - YouTube
after fixing this wire, it still runs like ****. no change. after a 5 minute warm up it started surging, and promptly died.
Whats wrong with my V12? - YouTube
#42
its only grounded at the amp end.
Whats wrong with my V12? - YouTube
Whats wrong with my V12? - YouTube
#43
#44
Just watched the video...it sounds and looks like you've got a major vacuum leak somewhere! Are all 4 bolts in on each side that hold the airboxes on?
You mean the ground mesh is grounded by the amp? Or it attaches to the black wire? It should only be attached to the black wire which feeds back into the ECU.
also, anyone wanting to know how loud my exhaust was? its so loud that the cameras mic cant even record it. its really, REALLY, loud.
Last edited by M90power; 05-24-2012 at 08:24 PM.
#45
Have you tried swapping in another amplifier?
Getting back to the vac leak - I've asked in a couple different threads here...have you taken care of all the vacuum stuff underneath the passenger's manifold? I know your air pump is gone - is everything blocked off? Is everything routed to the correct ports? If something's on the "off-idle" port instead of the manifold port or something, that'll do it. How are the air injection ports blocked off in the manifolds with the air pump rail gone? All that stuff is controlled or affected by temperature, or a timer that may make it seem like temperature.
I think you pulled the dizzy when you cleaned out your vee - what kind of shape were the wires to the pickup in? On both of mine they were horrible, worse than any other single piece of wire on the car.
Checked fuel pressure yet?
Does it die at idle or just when you open the throttle? I know it idles poorly but does it idle at all?
Getting back to the vac leak - I've asked in a couple different threads here...have you taken care of all the vacuum stuff underneath the passenger's manifold? I know your air pump is gone - is everything blocked off? Is everything routed to the correct ports? If something's on the "off-idle" port instead of the manifold port or something, that'll do it. How are the air injection ports blocked off in the manifolds with the air pump rail gone? All that stuff is controlled or affected by temperature, or a timer that may make it seem like temperature.
I think you pulled the dizzy when you cleaned out your vee - what kind of shape were the wires to the pickup in? On both of mine they were horrible, worse than any other single piece of wire on the car.
Checked fuel pressure yet?
Does it die at idle or just when you open the throttle? I know it idles poorly but does it idle at all?
#46
That surging wasn't you working the throttle? It was doing that on its' own?
Your idle is way too high and bouncing off the ECU's idle rev limiter (or whatever you call it). AAV or massive vac leak, or possibly misadjustment on the throttle plates. What did you set your throttle plate gap to?
Your idle is way too high and bouncing off the ECU's idle rev limiter (or whatever you call it). AAV or massive vac leak, or possibly misadjustment on the throttle plates. What did you set your throttle plate gap to?
#47
#48
We seem to be posting on top of each other. Check my post above about your idle speed.
On the TBs, certain ports are positioned very precisely at the very edge of the throttle plate, just when it breaks open. Externally these ports will look like they're in the "same place" as other manifold ports on the TB but aren't. If a vac line was put back on the wrong port you could have issues.
On the TBs, certain ports are positioned very precisely at the very edge of the throttle plate, just when it breaks open. Externally these ports will look like they're in the "same place" as other manifold ports on the TB but aren't. If a vac line was put back on the wrong port you could have issues.
#50
#51
#52
#53
#54
You need to set this car up as designed. You have a lot of things not correct. Get a hose for the AAV and connect that back up. Then set the throttle plates properly. Connect the MAP line. Plumb the vacuum hoses as original or block them off except for fuel pressure regulators. Then set the timing according to specs.
In the mean time you need to verify your wiring repairs with a DVOM from the ECU connector.
Verify coolant temp sensor reading at the ECU connector.
When at operating temp or close to it measure the O2 sensor volts.
Do you have a spark tester? If not use an old spark plug and check that spark is getting to each spark plug when it is running. Do one cylinder at a time. Shut off, swap plug, restart and see nice spark each time.
Set TPS voltage to proper setting.
This is a fairly simple FI system. It uses MAP, TPS and CTS to determine fueling. Air temp, O2 sensors are used to trim the fuel.
The system fuel mapping is based on proper fuel pressure and a properly functioning ignition system(all 12 cylinders firing, correct firing order, timing).
You said you have no vacuum leaks. Have you checked the intake gaskets for leaking not just hoses? Once you get AAV and throttle plates set properly you will know for sure. A vacuum leak on these older FI systems will cause a high idle that you can't reduce with the AAV.
If this was my car I would do this and in this order:
1. ECU wiring harness checking. Use a DVOM to check that every wire is connected to correct place on the other end. It is time consuming but only way to be 100% sure is to do it.
2. A compression test and leak down test. Need to make sure you have an engine that can actually run properly.
3. Fuel pressure test. Jump the fuel pump relay. If it is at spec then go to the next step.
4. Throttle plate adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment
5. TPS adjustment
6. Connect all vacuum hoses to proper ports. Including distributer.
7. Recheck firing order one last time then start engine and set timing with light
8. Make sure all 12 cylinders are firing.
Once you do all this report back. Until then you have some work to do.
Once all the basics are done then and only then are you really ready to do more diagnosis.
In the mean time you need to verify your wiring repairs with a DVOM from the ECU connector.
Verify coolant temp sensor reading at the ECU connector.
When at operating temp or close to it measure the O2 sensor volts.
Do you have a spark tester? If not use an old spark plug and check that spark is getting to each spark plug when it is running. Do one cylinder at a time. Shut off, swap plug, restart and see nice spark each time.
Set TPS voltage to proper setting.
This is a fairly simple FI system. It uses MAP, TPS and CTS to determine fueling. Air temp, O2 sensors are used to trim the fuel.
The system fuel mapping is based on proper fuel pressure and a properly functioning ignition system(all 12 cylinders firing, correct firing order, timing).
You said you have no vacuum leaks. Have you checked the intake gaskets for leaking not just hoses? Once you get AAV and throttle plates set properly you will know for sure. A vacuum leak on these older FI systems will cause a high idle that you can't reduce with the AAV.
If this was my car I would do this and in this order:
1. ECU wiring harness checking. Use a DVOM to check that every wire is connected to correct place on the other end. It is time consuming but only way to be 100% sure is to do it.
2. A compression test and leak down test. Need to make sure you have an engine that can actually run properly.
3. Fuel pressure test. Jump the fuel pump relay. If it is at spec then go to the next step.
4. Throttle plate adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment
5. TPS adjustment
6. Connect all vacuum hoses to proper ports. Including distributer.
7. Recheck firing order one last time then start engine and set timing with light
8. Make sure all 12 cylinders are firing.
Once you do all this report back. Until then you have some work to do.
Once all the basics are done then and only then are you really ready to do more diagnosis.
#55
You'll have to follow the vac hose digram to see what lines go to what ports, if yours is MIA they're online, just google it.
Your throttle plates should be .002" from closing and are sensitive to being unbalanced...can you rig up anything from the busted hose, even temporarily, to allow you to set your throttle plates correctly?
Jamey, you mean internal to the ECU? The only other timers are the 45sec or 15 min, then the thermal vac valve on the pass. side, and the CTS. As far as I can remember those are the only external time or temp inputs. 45-sec timer shouldn't do anything on his car since his air pump's been removed, unless someone miswired it back into something other than the SAV.
Your throttle plates should be .002" from closing and are sensitive to being unbalanced...can you rig up anything from the busted hose, even temporarily, to allow you to set your throttle plates correctly?
Jamey, you mean internal to the ECU? The only other timers are the 45sec or 15 min, then the thermal vac valve on the pass. side, and the CTS. As far as I can remember those are the only external time or temp inputs. 45-sec timer shouldn't do anything on his car since his air pump's been removed, unless someone miswired it back into something other than the SAV.
#56
#57
Do you have a spark tester? If not use an old spark plug and check that spark is getting to each spark plug when it is running. Do one cylinder at a time. Shut off, swap plug, restart and see nice spark each time.
ive done 90% of the things on your list. i havent checked the wires one by one, and i havent done a compressoin test. that is all.
#58
To be absolutely sure there are no vac leaks, block off the throttles completely, and see what happens when you start it.
Greg
#59
#60