Here's a quick update ...

First off, thanks to all of you for your advice and assistance! After hearing from everyone, I've decided to put off doing this project, at least till I get some equipment and more parts together. My original thought was that I would replace everything with the subframe in place, the consensus seems to be that it's better to take it out. So, wasn't going to replace engine mounts, now think I will.

Also need to get an engine support. Harbor freight has this one:

1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

Does anyone here have first hand knowledge of this unit? It seems to me I've heard that the v12 is about 700 lbs, plus trans I guess, the HF support claims 1000 lbs capacity ... not sure if thats enough margin for safety for a HF product. (for those unfamiliar Harbor Freight sells inexpensive, mostly chinese made tools - quality seems better than it was in years gone by but still somewhat hit or miss. I haven't seen this piece in person, but reviews are pretty positive).

Another question: how to support the subframe while working on it all. I'm thinking of using my motorcycle jack, it has a top area about 12 x 18 inches and 1500 lb capacity, also can be mechanically locked at a couple heights. Not this one, but similar style:


I'm sure that could handle lifting it, but how unstable will the whole thing be when it's out of the car? Our garage houses two cars, I'd like to be able to roll it out to work on it, then roll it back under at night for the other car to park there. Is that feasible?

Thanks again for all your help!

Eric

 

That beam will be fine.
Remove all the bits you can from the subframe while it is still on the car before removing it. That is, springs, hubs, shockers, brakes, suspension arms. The support the engine at the front eyes using chains and shackles from the beam to the eyes, then undo the engine mounts at the top of the mounts (not easy). Then first loosen the front six shot mount bolts but leave them in place, undo the rack power steering pipes, and undo the rear subframe mount bolts. The subframe can then be swung down on the front mounts. Then the rack can be removed and then the front mounts undone and the subframe removed. It is not that heavy once everything is off and can be lifted easily and placed on a workbench.
Greg

 

Good thread. I intend to start my suspension refresh soon.

When I bought the car (94 Coupe, 4.0, auto), it had 136,000 miles and I knew one sway bar D-bushing was broken and the trans mount was dead. It also had some gawdawful 22 year old Dayton wire rims. Vibration above 60mph was intolerable. So I fixed the trans mount and replaced the rims with alloys. Now it's good to 75mph when a minor vibration starts. And now I can tell how loose the steering is. I also measured the ride height and am not comfortable with the variances from side to side, both front and rear. Underneath, a lot of the bushings are clearly worn.

So I'm going to start collecting parts and give it a try. I'll post updates in this thread.

Padre

 

Padre
Apart from points in my posting above, the most difficult thing, after the springs are off (needs proper strong spring compressor tool, if you search the forum there is tons of stuff about it) may well be the bottom wishbone pin.
This must be withdrawn and inserted through the bottom wishbone and the subframe front to back and goes through a tube which is part of the subframe. The pin corrodes into this subframe tube, and into the wishbone bush eyes very badly, if you are unlucky. To the extent that it can be impossible to bang it out. This is what mine was like.
The solution I found was that there is JUST room, between the inner face of the wishbone eye and the subframe tube, to get an electric saw hacksaw blade into the gap. Then with great aggravation and not a few spare blades, cut the pin each side of the subframe ie front side and rear side. This enables you to remove the wishbone and to deal with the bush (burn it out if necessary).
The pin, of course, remains stuck in the subframe tube, now you employ the watchmakers tools (ie lump hammer and steel drive rod) and can bang it out as your effort is not damped by the wishbone bush rubber. When reassembling, load the tube ends and the pin with molybdenum grease, or copper grease or molybdenum nickel grease.
As to the parts required, I strongly advocate using genuine OEM metalastic bushes for the suspension, JaguarSport rack mounts, and Lemforder brand balljoints and track rod ends. I have had nothing but grief from aftermarket brands, even from specialists.
Greg

 

I bought that engine support, it works great. Its the kind of tool that you'd buy from Harbour Freight because its a simple tool that is rarely used and thus it makes sense to spend less. Versus their ratchets...

I used a floor jack with a piece of wood attached screwed to the jack pad. It wasn't too tipsy but you had to pay attention rolling it.

 

Stop saying this! I can't remember what parts I used and I want to remain in denial about ever having to remove the front subframe again in case I bought the shitty aftermarket ones! ;-)

 

Exactly what I had to do Andy. So if I had to, I see no reason why the pain should not be spread around a bit! The worst part was the bottom wishbone bushes having to be redone, as that meant dropping the subframe rear, again! look on at as something to look forward to, to fill those long winter evenings...
Greg

 

It is worth remembering when doing the lower bushes to make certain not to tighten the fulcrum bolts until the car is at its normal ride height. You will be doing the job again shortly after if you don't.