Swapping axles vs wheel bearing settings
This might be me over-thinking but has anyone ever observed any change in end float when swapping one stub axle into
another wheel carrier? Are they all close enough to the same? I'm assuming not but thought I'd ask.
another wheel carrier? Are they all close enough to the same? I'm assuming not but thought I'd ask.
The only time I absolutely swap the entire axle/hub assy is when the hub is damaged from neglected wheel bearings.
Not worth the time and effort to get a new hub and setup the bearing preload.
I just find a good/used axle/hub assy and partly dismantle to relube the bearings.
The factory already set the bearing/hub so the spacer/shim is good to go unless it is also damaged.
The hub preload is set BETWEEN the outer and inner bearings so the splined shaft will not affect it.
Not worth the time and effort to get a new hub and setup the bearing preload.
I just find a good/used axle/hub assy and partly dismantle to relube the bearings.
The factory already set the bearing/hub so the spacer/shim is good to go unless it is also damaged.
The hub preload is set BETWEEN the outer and inner bearings so the splined shaft will not affect it.
Assuming rear wheel hubs as the front play/preload is set with the castle nut.
From memory the defining characteristics on the rear that determines the spacer required for proper end float is:
- the aluminium hub housing - how it's machined, & therefore how far apart the outer bearing cups sit when they are pressed fully home into the housing.
- The total length of the wheel hub/female spline part, because this + the bronze coloured various-thickness spacer is bolted together tightly and determines the distance between the inner races.
So if you are only changing the stub axle/driveshaft (the male splined end) there will be no affect on the bearings.
From memory the defining characteristics on the rear that determines the spacer required for proper end float is:
- the aluminium hub housing - how it's machined, & therefore how far apart the outer bearing cups sit when they are pressed fully home into the housing.
- The total length of the wheel hub/female spline part, because this + the bronze coloured various-thickness spacer is bolted together tightly and determines the distance between the inner races.
So if you are only changing the stub axle/driveshaft (the male splined end) there will be no affect on the bearings.
Last edited by Asdrewq; Mar 4, 2025 at 07:23 AM.
If you want to be sure, this is what to measure see post number 35 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-225834/page2/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-225834/page2/
Asdrew is right, but if you want to measure the required shim, this is what to measure see towards the end of post number 35 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-225834/page2/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-225834/page2/
The only time I absolutely swap the entire axle/hub assy is when the hub is damaged from neglected wheel bearings.
Not worth the time and effort to get a new hub and setup the bearing preload.
I just find a good/used axle/hub assy and partly dismantle to relube the bearings.
The factory already set the bearing/hub so the spacer/shim is good to go unless it is also damaged.
The hub preload is set BETWEEN the outer and inner bearings so the splined shaft will not affect it.
Not worth the time and effort to get a new hub and setup the bearing preload.
I just find a good/used axle/hub assy and partly dismantle to relube the bearings.
The factory already set the bearing/hub so the spacer/shim is good to go unless it is also damaged.
The hub preload is set BETWEEN the outer and inner bearings so the splined shaft will not affect it.
After pulling one of these apart again I see why the splined stub axle is irrelevant. I've only had one apart
before and that was on the car and a number of years ago, couldn't picture how it went together. Thanks..
I had to increase the size of the spacer to get barely .002 end float with new bearings in my donor setup. Prior to disassembly it measured about .003
with the original bearings and using just the original spacer with new bearings there was 0 end float, or possibly a wee bit of preload.
Timken UK vs Timken USA I suppose. Would be interesting to just run the spacer that it came with and see if it loosened up
over time. I'm not, but it would be interesting.
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