Hi all, still got the abs light on in my 89 convertible 5.3. Tevez system. I’ve bleed the brakes twice but the pedal still feels soft . I will try again but wondered if this might be a reason the lights on? All sensors checked and working and I’ve had it over 19 mph for a re set. Before I start spending on a new accumulator I thought I’d rule out the cheapest options. Thanks for any input.

 

how long does the pump run for when you start the engine ( or position 2 on the ignition ) it will buzz, shouldn't be more than 30 seconds , or as you suspect , the accumulator is probably at fault

xj40 ones, and some American car units will fit , changing is easy once you manage to unscrew the existing one ,

take great care in bleeding the system, TEVES systems do not like fluid going against the flow, it puts debris in the seals in the solenoid block

BB

 

Thanks bb. I will time it tomorrow. Probably ready anyway. Can't think how fluid might have gone backwards. Whole system got drained down during refurbishment. Then re filled.

 

brinny,

If anyone removed the pads without first undoing the caliper bleed nipple and fitting a drain pipe, then it's quite possible that fluid can get pushed back to the valve block.

As regards bleeding the Teves system, you must always start by bleeding the low-pressure side before doing the wheel circuits, otherwise you can be forever chasing your tail to get rid of the air. I assume you did that when the system was refilled?

As BB has mentioned, how long does it take to build up pressure? Try completely discharging the accumulated pressure with the ignition off (30 presses of the brake pedal) then turn on the ignition and count how long the pump runs. Then also see how many presses you get before the pump cuts back in. I wouldn't condemn the accumulator just yet.

Good luck

Paul

 

In addition to this, a bad accumulator makes the pedal hard, not soft. I suspect your problem is somewhere else. If it is only the ABS light, I would still suspect a problem with wheel speed readings.

 

there is a method to get the ABS light to flash to show a particular code that is stored in the ECU,

a little google search might be required because i cant remember the method right now,

however, the code will flash a number sequence, the first and second flashed digits will lead you to troubleshooting the issue stored in the ECU , the actual light in the dash flashes

i seem to remember having to link out two pins by the ABS ECU in the boot/trunk to make the code flash with the ignition switch on , standard practice for the dealerships back in the day , probably a lost or forgotten method now

BB

 

Well I've tried it this morning and after 30 pumps to empty it, it took 1min 5 seconds to fill. It then took two pumps before it started again. It then took about 5 seconds to re-fill. Think its had it what do you reckon? Also after 12 of the 30 pumps the pedal went hard. Anti lock light still on.

 

Hi Brinny.
I fitted a new Bosch accumulator to my car a couple of months ago. Time to fill is if I remember correctly is around 36 seconds. I normally get between 5-7 pushes before the pump starts again.
Rob.

 

Cheers Robbo. Looks like time to order!

 

I've a new bosch accumulator coming tomorrow. £75 off ebay. Happy with that.

 

brinny,

You MAY need a new accumulator and I understand that you've already ordered one. But I would really try and diagnose the problem first before fitting it.

As I understand it, you've got the ABS (but not the handbrake warning light or general brake warning) light permanently on? You've also got a soft pedal. You take about a minute to repressurise after a complete discharge. And you get the pump cutting in after 2 applications of the brake pedal.

The soft pedal IMPLIES air in the system still rather than a failed accumulator. And the 60 second repressure from complete discharge isn't unusual. The 2-application pump refresh isn't ideal but it's not unknown.

If it were my car, I would re-bleed (again, I know!) but you must start with a low-pressure circuit bleed before you do the wheel circuits. After that do the wheel circuits (the Teves way, not the Jaguar way). Then drive it. If you've still got a soft pedal, do it all again!

After that, if the pedal is firm but the ABS light is still permanently illuminated, do the blink test and see if you've got any codes stored which may indicate wiring or sensor problems.

Then test the ABS pump relay. Then test the Pressure Switch at zero pressure status.

Then sit back and see where you've got to!

Good luck

Paul

 

If it were my car, I would re-bleed (again, I know!) but you must start with a low-pressure circuit bleed before you do the wheel circuits.

Paul[/QUOTE]

just to be clear, do you mean remove the plastic elbow near the accumulator and let some run out as described by orange blossom previously? I intend bleeding the wheel circuits again as I think there is still air in the system.

 

brinny,

That's correct. It's the feed from the reservoir to the pump.
Ensure ignition off. Top up reservoir. Carefully pull the clip, remove the pipe from the pump body, Fluid will / should immediately flow. Let fluid flow into a container until steady and no air pockets. Replace pipe whilst fluid flowing and refit clip. Ideally replace seal on pipe first but I'm not sure if it's available from Jagyar anymore. I'll check. Have plenty of rags under pipe during whole procedure, plus container to catch fluid.
Really important to do this before going near wheel circuits. And do the rear wheel circuits as per Teves recommended routine. I've described before but let me know if you don't have it.

Cheers

Paul

 

Yes I did that previously but perhaps I didn't let it run out for long enough. I am hoping to have a go at the weekend so will start by re doing low pressure side. Thanks

 

I wonder if this would.solve my.soft pedal issue. After I rebuilt the rear end I bleed the whole system . No light and the accumulater is within the started times etc. Just seems soft. I never did the lower pressure side. Don't think I saw it mentioned. So ill put that on the list.

 

Just an update on this. I've today replaced the accumulator with new. Blead the low pressure side again but all seemed ok anyway there. Then blead the brakes as prescribed. Virtually no air in rears. Small amount of air in passenger side front and next to no air in drivers side front. Told the missus to turn the ignition on and re pressure the system. Then pump brakes. Got one press before pump kicked in. Any ideas ????

 

Hi brinny.
I had a problem with my car with the pedal sinking when pushed. I would turn the ignition on and the pump would run and fill my new accumulator. When pushing on the pedal it would sink and the pump would cut in. You could actually see the fluid being returned to the brake reservoir. This was caused by filthy brake fluid and air in the rear brakes. Once this was all flushed out and the brakes properly bled the problem was sorted.
Rob.

 

Think I need a magic wand with this car!! Then again ......... Greg....Grant....Warren... Alex....Doug ...!! Lol

 

Do you need to depressurerize the system before bleeding the low pressure side?

Any pics of the actually pipe you disconnect to do the low side?

 

Don't look at me Brinny! No ABS and no Marelli! PTJS and Orangeblossom are the guys for Teves!