After 7 years and my small leak becoming bigger in the front pump seal i presume. it now just drips out like is making red coffee, im thinking of attempting to remove the trans myself.
Also today she decided she doesn't want to shift into 3rd, im pretty annoyed after i just put everything back together after my main fan exploding last week.
have any of you guys removed the trans with the engine still in the car? i cant find any info on it. and how hard or easy etc..
Looks like i might need to take it to a trans shop now for the 3rd gear prob.

 

Fairly routine RWD type of removal but it's a big job

A brief, over-simplified run down from memory......

-drain trans
-devise some sort of engine support
-disconnect left and right exhuast pipes
-remove starter (or at least the bolts)
-disconnect shift linkage
-disconnect trans wiring
-disconnect driveshaft
-remove trans mount
-remove flywheel-to-convertor bolts
-remove engine-to-flywheel bolts
-remove trans (200? pounds)

I'd hate to do this job on my back with the car on jackstands. But it's doable.

Cheers
DD

 

One hour out and one hour in. Did my 86 V-12 with only front wheels up. Local shop rebuilt tranny 400 to specs for $400. Dealer wanted near $5000 for doing whole job.

 

Thanks Doug always a wealth of knowledge.
what im curious about is how in the world to i get access to the bell housing bolts to the engine? im assuming i need to tilt the engine back by removing the mount. to maybe get some long socket in there.

 

Not bad Larry thats what i would like to do. Any tips? how high the front needs to be?
how you got to the bolts? and did you use a trans jack or rig something? what about those dang coolant hoses..

 

You should check several trans shops if you don't feel that you have the tools, or place. I found a shop that the owner is a immigrant, understands that its just a GM turbo 400, and pays no attention to it being a Jag. Would do a Chevelle with a turbo 400 for the same as a Jag.

 

Wow. The TH400 has like 8 moving pieces $5k is a bit steep even for a dealer.

 

Yeah, thought dealer was tough and that was 10 yrs. ago. Dealer bankrupt now and foreclosed on. Shawn: Car has to be high enough to get under + 6" for bellhousing clearance. Long (longer) extensions and flex the tranny up and down (watch rad fan) jack is essential (too heavy for one person, used Harbor Freight tranny jack with 3 ton jack) if you can get help get it. Fluid lines need undone and capped(drain tranny first). Use a engine holder on engine before removing tranny. I have been doing Jag repair (at that time for 30yrs.) so nothing was new to me. Soak exhaust pipes and slightly tap til free or cut and replace ($30). DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE A TRANNY REMOVAL BEFORE. USE JACK STANDS HEAVY ENOUGH FOR JOB AND PUT CHOCKS ON FRONT AND REAR OF BACK WHEELS. Might have to lift rear a bit to slide out tranny. HELP IS A MUST!!!

 

Thank you Larry. for the info. I'm pretty mechanically inclined. you need to be with the xjs.
just not having a lift I'd what I'm alittle worried about. but besides that I belive I can rip it it out. and yes I will be talking somebody into helping me.

 

well yesterday a started to remove the trans. Larry how In the world did u get it out in an hour?
I tilted back the engine idk if it is far enough I have noticed the exhaust manifold where the first cat is located seems to be hitting the subframe mount. I seem to be at my length as to how far I can tilt the engine.

also when I unbolted the driveshaft fluid leaked out.???
turns out the bolt inside the tail shaft was just hanging in there not even screwed in. what a suprise.
this is a big task.
I'm still trying to figure out how to get to all the housing bolts.

 

Been a Jag mechanic since 1964 and worked in a shop during the 80s and 90s. Lots of extortion by mechanic and lots of extentions (3/8) and just know how. Might take off oil sender at top anything in way. Do not know how long the first one took. But remember we did all trannys in XJs and XJSs out in an hour. On lift, we used 3 people to lift tranny out without jack. If you can feel bolts with fingers they are reachable. Did you try taking top bolts out from top? Drain tranny first, does make it lighter and less messy.

 

the job is rated at 8 hours and about 6 hours by jaguar

steps include

1. Disconnect battery ground cable and remove transmission dipstick.
2. Remove bolt securing dipstick upper tube, then remove upper tube.
3. Position fender supports to allow installation of engine support tool, then attach engine support tool No. MS53B or equivalent, to engine lift brackets. Tighten tool hook to support engine weight.
4. Disconnect intermediate exhaust pipes and heat shields, then disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold.
5. Remove front and rear heat shields and rear support center nut.
6. Remove spacer, then using a jack, support rear mounting plate.
7. Remove bolts securing rear mount, then remove rear spacers. Lower jack and remove rear mount.
8. With rear of transmission supported with jack, remove crossmember.
9. Disconnect driveshaft from transmission and position aside.
10. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission, then disconnect shift linkage.
11. Disconnect kickdown switch electrical connector and remove bolt securing switch wiring clip from transmission.
12. Disconnect modulator vacuum line, then remove clamp securing modulator and the modulator. Some fluid will drain from modulator housing when modulator is removed.
13. Disconnect oil cooler lines from transmission, then remove bolt securing oil line clamp to engine sump.
14. Remove torque converter access cover. Remove bolts attaching converter to driveplate.
15. Remove right side steering rack bellows heat shield, then remove right side catalyst from exhaust manifold, if equipped.
16. Remove engine to transmission attaching bolts except two lower left side bolts and lower starter attaching bolt.
17. Remove lower dipstick tube. Attach transmission jack to transmission and remove remaining engine to transmission bolts. Lower transmission and remove from below vehicle. Use caution not to damage right side catalytic converter when removing transmission.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.

 

Its out, getting what ever im gonna put back in it, is going to be such a blast

 

Yep, dealer says 8+ hrs. But a flat rate tech/mechanic will do it in a lot less time. I had one guy working a stall over from me and he would leave lock washers out to make time. Shawn great job, goes in exactly the way you took it out. Make sure converter is locked in place, use a piece or 1/4" X 1" X 4" steel bolted on housing mount hole to hold converter in place, remove before last shove.

 

Nice job! I've been wondering about this bit of work, figuring that it is only a matter of time before I have to do it. My transmission is sometimes reluctant to engage reverse...

I've thought about whether putting the original transmission back in is the best choice considering that there are a few more modern GM trannys that could be made to work. A four speed would be a nice addition.

Seen it done once, right?

 

I was thinking of putting in a 4 speed to. but at the moment its out of my price range.
Im gettin mine rebuilt and a new torque converter for 933$

 

I'm about to remove and replace my slipping t66 tranny from my 82 ser 3 xj6. Thanks for the write up!

 

I'm sure that will be way easier.
you can actually see the trans bolts on back of the engine on the xj6.
I was just feeling with my hands
under the xjs.

 

Home fabricated engine brace.





Made from an old bed frame.





And stuff I had in the spare bolts drawer.

 

I now suspect that this thread is suited more for a V12 with the GM400 (?) transmission, but I wanted to share my progress none the less...



Old slippy out





Newer(ish) not so slippy getting ready to go back in.