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My water pump is shot. The bearing has too much wobble and therefore needs replacing. As my former coolant has erroded a good chunk of the pump away (outside... Inside is fine) I need a replacement. I could rebuild it, but the bearing is the only part available. The seal isn't purchasable anymore...
So I'm trying to find out what one is best to get - refurb doesn't bother me. I have the single groove pulley one, as is normal on the V12. Do the later V12s with 6.0l as in the X300 have a different pump with a proper belt (as the X308 has)? Are there any differences between the different V12 waterpumps (carb, 5.3l, 6.0l, TWR) that would improve cooling of that massive engine?
Then the gasket... Is there a new gasket, like those for the valve covers, sump and co available?
Finally, I was a stupid tw*t when I removed my water pump. I simply put all screws into one pot... With loads of other ones. So I'll be buying some new screws. Just how many of what type? I've been checking with Jaguar parts online but... There is one longer one on the right hand side and one philips screw around the crank shaft pulley. 2 studs on the left and two longer screws on the right. But how many of the normal screws are required? Looking at the water pump looks as if there were two different sizes of shorter screws!.
Cheers for the help!
Damien
PS: hiw would you remove some crystalized antifreeze from inside the engine block (water channels)?
My water pump is shot. The bearing has too much wobble and therefore needs replacing. As my former coolant has erroded a good chunk of the pump away (outside... Inside is fine) I need a replacement. I could rebuild it, but the bearing is the only part available. The seal isn't purchasable anymore...
So I'm trying to find out what one is best to get - refurb doesn't bother me. I have the single groove pulley one, as is normal on the V12. Do the later V12s with 6.0l as in the X300 have a different pump with a proper belt (as the X308 has)? Are there any differences between the different V12 waterpumps (carb, 5.3l, 6.0l, TWR) that would improve cooling of that massive engine?
Then the gasket... Is there a new gasket, like those for the valve covers, sump and co available?
Finally, I was a stupid tw*t when I removed my water pump. I simply put all screws into one pot... With loads of other ones. So I'll be buying some new screws. Just how many of what type? I've been checking with Jaguar parts online but... There is one longer one on the right hand side and one philips screw around the crank shaft pulley. 2 studs on the left and two longer screws on the right. But how many of the normal screws are required? Looking at the water pump looks as if there were two different sizes of shorter screws!.
Cheers for the help!
Damien
PS: hiw would you remove some crystalized antifreeze from inside the engine block (water channels)?
The same pump for all versions but pulley was twin groove on some early engines and single on late. Serpentine did not appear on xjs, only saloon.
You may have to probe mounting holes to determine free bore depth of each and calculate bolt length from there. I recommend the use of anti seize on all water pump bolts.
The real late stuff with the Serpentime belt are obviously different.
There is NO Super pump, the pump as fitted is just fine, Cooling issues are always other items, radiator, block full of mud, bad stats, bad cap/s, improper bleeding, etc.
Cleaning the block out is easy. LH side, remove the AAV and blast water/comp air down via that hole, and use a rod (opened out wire coat hanger works well) to rod in from the front until clean. Refit the AAV.
The RH side, remove the cast alloy housing of the water rail, and do the same. Refit that rail end using NEW top hat seals, and gaskets.
While messing in there, flush the heater core, both ways, and often. Most of the mud I see in the system comes from that heater core.
As for bolts/studs/etc, no idea. I have HEAPS of labeled containers, and that suits my current brain cells just fine.
This drawing might help:
#16 are the 2 fan housing studs, longish.
#11 has 5.
#12 no idea.
#15 is 1
#13 no idea.
#17 is 1.
I will keep looking just in case I missed something in other books.
Drink more, it will clear up eventaully, worked for me many times, then I hit the wagon, and got the containers, HA.
I got an OLD parts book in the shed, BUT, the wife cleaned up my shed????????, thought it was untidy, and I cant find a damn thing, but I will, and report back, but dont hold your breathe, its nearly midnight here now, so tomorrow will be another day.
I used Gortex gasket on my cam cover, but don't know if its available for the water pump, it wasn't when I replaced my water pump a few years back. Otherwise your probably going to use the standard "paper" gasket & sealer.
Check the mating surface of a rebuilt pump, mine had a very small scar left by someone along its life. My thought is a screw driver was used to pry the sticking pump from the block, not noticed in the core check or rebuild process or by me. Result, leak, did the job over.
Drink more, it will clear up eventaully, worked for me many times, then I hit the wagon, and got the containers, HA.
I got an OLD parts book in the shed, BUT, the wife cleaned up my shed????????, thought it was untidy, and I cant find a damn thing, but I will, and report back, but dont hold your breathe, its nearly midnight here now, so tomorrow will be another day.
When I do my rear axle next year, I'll be using little tubs and co.
I think I've sussed it out now... But as said, think
If I'm doing a job that I haven't done before with lots of bolts I have a trick. I roughly sketch the part on a piece of cardboard then I poke holes in the drawing where the bolts go and store them in the holes. When I reassemble I just look at the drawing and use the bolt in the hole.
Sounds stupid I know but it works for me
If I'm doing a job that I haven't done before with lots of bolts I have a trick. I roughly sketch the part on a piece of cardboard then I poke holes in the drawing where the bolts go and store them in the holes. When I reassemble I just look at the drawing and use the bolt in the hole.
Sounds stupid I know but it works for me
brilliant mate! brilliant!
beats me taking picts with my phone with the bolt by the hole with the correct wrench! a lot simpler !
Drink more, it will clear up eventaully, worked for me many times, then I hit the wagon, and got the containers, HA.
I got an OLD parts book in the shed, BUT, the wife cleaned up my shed????????, thought it was untidy, and I cant find a damn thing, but I will, and report back, but dont hold your breathe, its nearly midnight here now, so tomorrow will be another day.
Found that book.
Using the same parts drawing above:
#16 = 2
#11 =7 ONLY up to Vin 144699,
#12 = 1
#15 = 1
#13 = 2
Only change is from Vin # 144700
#11 = 6
AND
#17 = 1, that countersunk screw.
This pump has been in my car since November of 2013 and I have had no issues with it, it includes a gasket. Also, in case it wasn't mentioned, the old box trick for storing bolts comes in hand here, just whatever cardboard you have around.
If it hasn't been mentioned already, please replace the nearby plug for the timing chain while you are in there!
I'm a bit baffled, been on a 6.0 parts car in the wrecking yard all day and was trying to get the water pump off complete with fan etc. I undid all the fasteners around the edge of it (like the image below) but it's not budging at all.
What am I missing? I was trying to get the fan and fan clutch as well. I got a lot of other super useful stuff but ran out of steam on this.
I was also hoping to pull the harmonic balancer, any clues by those who have been there and done these task gratefully received!
I R&Rd my water pump a while ago and there were two gotchas, the first one was the Philips head screw, bottom left of centre in the pic, the countersunk hole, which was very hard to see let alone undo and secondly as my car is British spec it doesn't have an air pump but it does have a dolly pulley in it's place and part of the bracketry for it is in front of the RH end of the water pump as you look at the pic and hinders removal.
Once I figured those little tricks the pump came straight off.
The hard part of removing the harmonic damper is undoing the BGB (bloody great bolt) that holds it on and it is not on a taper like the earlier cars and you may need a puller to shift it.
I would just pull the whole engine and take the lot home!
Cheers,
Jeff.
Last edited by watto700; Mar 26, 2024 at 01:01 AM.
Oliver
That screw is a Pozi headed one, not a Philips, by the way. Also, from memory, you have to remove one of the power steering tensioner fixings that goes through the pump RHS.
V12 water pumps...
