Valve Adjustment
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#4
when I changed my heads I set the clearances to 0015" as per the
information for improved mpg in experience in a book, it was too noisy for me, so I had to go through the agro of re-shimming them all back to 0012".
I hope the big gaps didn't do excessive wear
my engine plate states 0012" -0014" for 1984 HE
looking at the setting above maybe the u.s. spec is different
information for improved mpg in experience in a book, it was too noisy for me, so I had to go through the agro of re-shimming them all back to 0012".
I hope the big gaps didn't do excessive wear
my engine plate states 0012" -0014" for 1984 HE
looking at the setting above maybe the u.s. spec is different
Last edited by rgp; 01-21-2014 at 12:31 PM.
#5
#6
then is WAS a typo, thank god...
Re-read your original post. It says .12 and .14 not .012 and .014
#7
when I changed my heads I set the clearances to 0015" as per the
information for improved mpg in experience in a book, it was too noisy for me, so I had to go through the agro of re-shimming them all back to 0012".
I hope the big gaps didn't do excessive wear
my engine plate states 0012" -0014" for 1984 HE
looking at the setting above maybe the u.s. spec is different
information for improved mpg in experience in a book, it was too noisy for me, so I had to go through the agro of re-shimming them all back to 0012".
I hope the big gaps didn't do excessive wear
my engine plate states 0012" -0014" for 1984 HE
looking at the setting above maybe the u.s. spec is different
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#8
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#10
Early HE's came with super tight clearances, like .010 and .012exh, for some emissions reason, making engine run on the verge of losing compression at full warm up, due to valve stem expansion. So if one wants a happy engine, clearances need to be 012/014. Mine runs a lot better now, noticeably more power.
#11
Early HE's came with super tight clearances, like .010 and .012exh, for some emissions reason, making engine run on the verge of losing compression at full warm up, due to valve stem expansion. So if one wants a happy engine, clearances need to be 012/014. Mine runs a lot better now, noticeably more power.
I'd say if .010-.012 is factory and you feel .012-.014 is better, set the thing to .012
#12
Valves tent to expand on these with age, in my case I had one cylinder starting to fart into exhaust, after full warm up.
#13
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if you actually had an exhaust valve not sealing properly,and it was an HE, it most likely had seat regression, or valve sucking deeper into the head.(refered to as sucked a valve)
either not good, comes from high heat in the valve area only, a common HE thing.
and personally i like the loose valve clearences, even tho it is noisy! safer when/if it over heats.
either not good, comes from high heat in the valve area only, a common HE thing.
and personally i like the loose valve clearences, even tho it is noisy! safer when/if it over heats.
#14
It seems to run perfect now, so I am not sure what it was. Motor I have is very clean and does not seem to have previous overheat issues. However, since those become harder to get, look what I just got at a local junkyard
80K miles, seems to spin smooth and has most of accessories intact, $500!
80K miles, seems to spin smooth and has most of accessories intact, $500!
#15
personally i'll stick to the factory specs. .001 change in valve clearance results in 3 degrees change in duration. I'd rather have it run the way it was designed to.
not to mention the possiblity of slack resulting in less air coming in, which will get the computer to run the engine lean...causing overheating
not to mention the possiblity of slack resulting in less air coming in, which will get the computer to run the engine lean...causing overheating
#17
I used the isky XM5 grind.
My machinest said that you're best to shim towards the larger tolerance in the valve lash specs because after a fresh valve job it's gonna get slightly closer and if you're at the minimum you'll end up under it.
#18
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