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I've noticed over recent years that there has been a trend, towards People using Vinyl Gloves for working on their Cars.
Which is something I've never done until I came across some in a Shop Yesterday and having now tried them while working on my XJS I found them very useful and amazing!
The only ones available in this particular Shop were the Non Powdered Type, so I got those, only to find out later that they also make Powder Coated ones as well.
Does anyone else use these? and why would anyone use the Non Powdered Type, as I had to tip some Powder inside, in order to get them on easily.
I don't know about in the UK, but here we have a chain of tool stores called Harbor Freight that sells cheap, junk tools from China. Ok, well some of their stuff is of tolerable quality but most of its junk. One thing they do have though is thin nitrile gloves in boxes of 50. I stock up on the 9 mil heavy duty ones when they are on sale. They're not powdered but not too hard to get on. Just puff them full of air first.
I guess its better than having grease under the fingernails. The only downside to wearing these gloves tho seems to be that my hands get rough and dry, maybe from sweating in the gloves all weekend and then drying out. Then I have to endure the scratchy cuticles the rest of the week or use some kind of lotion.
I don't know about in the UK, but here we have a chain of tool stores called Harbor Freight that sells cheap, junk tools from China. Ok, well some of their stuff is of tolerable quality but most of its junk. One thing they do have though is thin nitrile gloves in boxes of 50. I stock up on the 9 mil heavy duty ones when they are on sale. They're not powdered but not too hard to get on. Just puff them full of air first.
I guess its better than having grease under the fingernails. The only downside to wearing these gloves tho seems to be that my hands get rough and dry, maybe from sweating in the gloves all weekend and then drying out. Then I have to endure the scratchy cuticles the rest of the week or use some kind of lotion.
Hi Phil
No problems with them so far but for me at least they were a lot more comfortable, if I put some powder in them first.
I sell gloves at the dental supply company I work for.
The nitrile gloves are best. The are more resistant to chemical leaching through the material and are non-allergic.
The powder works as a lube to make glove go on better.
The powder on the latex gloves carries the latex protein airborn and into the lungs increasing the chance at latex allergies.
A latex allergy will cause the skin on your hands to go red and crack.
It's natural for me to work in gloves in the shop because I wear gloves in my work all the time. These are my Favorite Work Gloves.
The only time gloves in the shop were ever a hindrance for me was trying to feel ring ridges when I was in college and other delicate procedures, like starting brake tubing fittings. I always do those things bare handed, along with various Photo-Ops in these forums.
Gloves are Perishable Items in my world, (along with work shoes) and there are always at least two boxes of blue nitrile in reserve...
so I don't damage my trade mark red nails in the shop.
(';')
I sell gloves at the dental supply company I work for.
The nitrile gloves are best. The are more resistant to chemical leaching through the material and are non-allergic.
The powder works as a lube to make glove go on better.
The powder on the latex gloves carries the latex protein airborn and into the lungs increasing the chance at latex allergies.
A latex allergy will cause the skin on your hands to go red and crack.
Thanks
I was probably lucky that I got the non powdered type and then used my own.
It's natural for me to work in gloves in the shop because I wear gloves in my work all the time. These are my Favorite Work Gloves.
The only time gloves in the shop were ever a hindrance for me was trying to feel ring ridges when I was in college and other delicate procedures, like starting brake tubing fittings. I always do those things bare handed, along with various Photo-Ops in these forums.
Gloves are Perishable Items in my world, (along with work shoes) and there are always at least two boxes of blue nitrile in reserve...
so I don't damage my trade mark red nails in the shop.
(';')
In my experience, it's worth experimenting with a few boxes of different types until you find a type that you prefer.
I fought against using gloves for years, and ideally would still prefer to work bare-handed. I found it really difficult to find gloves that were absolutely skin-tight such that I could maintain the feel necessary to work blind or with delicate fittings, but which would remain resilient when in contact with petrol etc. For me, working with loose gloves is a waste of time and potentially dangerous.
In the end I decided that fit was the most important aspect and that I would just keep putting on a new pair every 30 mins as they fell apart. Also, you have to change them every time you want a cup of tea anyway, and putting used oily ones back on is a waste of time.
i now wear gloves for almost every task on the car,
for messy jobs i wear nitrile ones, don't like the Latex powdered or non powdered
for heavier jobs i use a nylon glove with a PU coating to the fingers and palm , this gives enough feel for spannering work without issues, i also use them every day for my work as an electrician
constantly used gloves will vastly improve the health of your hands as most oils and fluids used in vehicles are carcinogenic
i even find myself walking all the way back to my garage from the car just to put on my gloves as it doesn't feel right without them on now
another thing of note, when working for the DCRE at an RAF base, we introduced a glove policy for all work , provided different types and grades of gloves for different tasks , and our accident rate went from 5 or 6 reported hand injuries per month ( workforce of 40+ ) to ZERO , they do make a difference, even most large building sites have a glove policy these days
Yep have to wear PPE for work so as a matter of habit always wear gloves when working at home, as others have said the nitrile ones are the best for fiddly bits, I also use something similar to these as well which are elasticized cotton with the palm and fingers coated in nitrile rubber stuff for general work (they wont rip and provide protection against skinned knuckles etc) they last a while for home use and the nitrile means they grip well.
I am with Paul. I can't manage the fiddly stuff with latex or nitrile. Fiddly includes starting 9/16" bolts to support the "new' starter in my lump. Never mind the teeny trigger wire nut on the solenoid.
I do have several other gloves. Tight rubbery ones, looser leather ones and then armor! The latter are rough side out leather welder's gauntlets. Also useful in pruning thorny blackberry vines and roses!!
I've washed my hands in mechanic soap of many kinds, dating back to Lava bars.
Because of a skin condition, I use a moisturizer. Creamy lie stuff prescribed by my dermatologist. Works sorta to clean up greasy paws as well.
Dirt under the nails, just scrape and wash with a brush. Clip to order. A bit long isd easier to get clean and then clip.
Rassled with air lines and supplementary compressor and aired up the Jaguar's tires. All four ridiculously low!!! But cranks and starts beautifuly. Electric tidy to do yet and then button up.
Sure could use a washing, though!!! in view of ur drought, not sure just how to manage that
In my experience, it's worth experimenting with a few boxes of different types until you find a type that you prefer.
I fought against using gloves for years, and ideally would still prefer to work bare-handed. I found it really difficult to find gloves that were absolutely skin-tight such that I could maintain the feel necessary to work blind or with delicate fittings, but which would remain resilient when in contact with petrol etc. For me, working with loose gloves is a waste of time and potentially dangerous.
In the end I decided that fit was the most important aspect and that I would just keep putting on a new pair every 30 mins as they fell apart. Also, you have to change them every time you want a cup of tea anyway, and putting used oily ones back on is a waste of time.
Paul
With the amount of Tea that I drink, I'll probably be using 100 pairs a day!
But I've only just got into Gloves (pun intended) as I'd rather just wash my hands.
Though having given them a try, I can see the advantage in some situations.
i now wear gloves for almost every task on the car,
for messy jobs i wear nitrile ones, don't like the Latex powdered or non powdered
for heavier jobs i use a nylon glove with a PU coating to the fingers and palm , this gives enough feel for spannering work without issues, i also use them every day for my work as an electrician
constantly used gloves will vastly improve the health of your hands as most oils and fluids used in vehicles are carcinogenic
i even find myself walking all the way back to my garage from the car just to put on my gloves as it doesn't feel right without them on now
another thing of note, when working for the DCRE at an RAF base, we introduced a glove policy for all work , provided different types and grades of gloves for different tasks , and our accident rate went from 5 or 6 reported hand injuries per month ( workforce of 40+ ) to ZERO , they do make a difference, even most large building sites have a glove policy these days
Yep have to wear PPE for work so as a matter of habit always wear gloves when working at home, as others have said the nitrile ones are the best for fiddly bits, I also use something similar to these as well which are elasticized cotton with the palm and fingers coated in nitrile rubber stuff for general work (they wont rip and provide protection against skinned knuckles etc) they last a while for home use and the nitrile means they grip well.
I'm lucky I get them from work for free.
I can see it won't be long before I start to build up a vast collection of different types.
I am with Paul. I can't manage the fiddly stuff with latex or nitrile. Fiddly includes starting 9/16" bolts to support the "new' starter in my lump. Never mind the teeny trigger wire nut on the solenoid.
I do have several other gloves. Tight rubbery ones, looser leather ones and then armor! The latter are rough side out leather welder's gauntlets. Also useful in pruning thorny blackberry vines and roses!!
I've washed my hands in mechanic soap of many kinds, dating back to Lava bars.
Because of a skin condition, I use a moisturizer. Creamy lie stuff prescribed by my dermatologist. Works sorta to clean up greasy paws as well.
Dirt under the nails, just scrape and wash with a brush. Clip to order. A bit long isd easier to get clean and then clip.
Rassled with air lines and supplementary compressor and aired up the Jaguar's tires. All four ridiculously low!!! But cranks and starts beautifuly. Electric tidy to do yet and then button up.
Sure could use a washing, though!!! in view of ur drought, not sure just how to manage that
Carl
Down my way they use 'Swarfega' just love the smell of that Stuff, or at least I used to but I'm into the GF's Atrixo hand cream now.
i use a barrier cream , and then my Nylon PU coated gloves, just like the picture above in a fellow post , if I'm in for a coffee , the hands get washed with simple soap , the gloves and the cream ensure no heavy grime, so no need for the swarfega type products , as these will get rid of the grime, and also dry your hands out no end, and then your hands are susceptible to getting infections and skin conditions,
nothing ' non male ' about wearing gloves for working on cars....
Vinyl Gloves for Working on your XJS
something similar to these as well which are elasticized cotton with the palm and fingers coated in nitrile rubber stuff for general work (they wont rip and provide protection against skinned knuckles etc) they last a while for home use and the nitrile means they grip well.