So, I got my HK030 hose kit from UK and can't decide what to do with it. Few shops I called would not tell me how much it will be to replace it (or just don't want to deal with the car), the "leave the car and we will charge you per hour depending how long it will take" answer kinda bothers me.

Anyone have experience replacing these hoses? Does it require a lot of disassembly or Is there an instruction with labor figures on how long it should take?

Doe it make sense to DIY in garage without lift?

Sorry for too many questions :-)

 

Very doable by yourself regardless of skill level. Just need to be methodical and don't rush.

 

And you need patience and another joint in your arm for certain hoses...

 

Very doable.

Sense of humour (the more warped the better), language extension (kids nowhere near the work place), ability to consume alcohol (lots of it) during the process. Soooooo, STANDARD V12 working conditions.

Bandaids, BIG box, will be needed.

Allow a GOOD day without interruption, and it should be all done.

The 2nd and 3rd time you do this task, it will be done in a matter of hours, its that first one that will test you out.

 

Do not overlook the one hidden under the inlet manifold. This is the one that WILL fail on you if you do not renew it. It comes off the rear of the water pump, no. 4 below:



Greg

 

OOPS

Its half an engine, so half the above except for the alcohol.

That will be needed for that hose Greg has so kindly mentioned, on ya Greg.

 

From me too... Thought it was a V12...

 

It's the V12 reflex when talking of engine cooling and hoses

 

I think it is... That engine has like 2000 hoses everywherr in the engine bay

 

Start with the easiest ones to do (The ones that 'You' find easiest to do) and then move on to the more difficult ones.

Which may not seem so daunting, once you get stuck in.

Worst Case Scenario, if you have to take her into a Shop/Garage, there won't be many left for them to do, which reduces the possibility of having to pay over the odds in order to get the job done.

I did all mine from inside the Car without the need of jacking her up or getting underneath.

Including the 'Notorious Bottom Hose', though I did have the Fan and the Fan Shroud off at the time.

If you decide to go that way, protect the Rad with a Sheet of Cardboard.

 

The old hoses will probably be stuck fast to the nipples they slide onto. Do not fiercely twist, pull, and yank. You'll distort or, even worse, break off the nipple. This is a good way to ruin you day.

Use a razor or whatever to make 2 or three 3 slices in the hose. A gentle twist will now break it free of the nipple.

A squirt of silicone spray, or light smear of vaseline, or a product such as this.....

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/ags-...FQtqfgod4egOIQ


.......will allow new hose to slide into place easily.


Give hose clamps a squirt of WD40 or similar to free-up the worm gear and thus provide a smooth, easy action when tightening. Sounds trivial but there's nothing worse than fighting a sticky, binding hose clamp. It'll always be the one in the most awkward location.

Cheers
DD

 

Thank you very much for all the suggestions.

Thank you Greg, now I have two of those hoses #4 - one I bought per your suggestion on my first parts order, and another one came in the kit. (if anyone needs one - it's yours).
I was looking at replacing this one and was pretty sure I will need to take few things off to reach the far end. But after battle with breaks booster my confidence is up!

Thanks again everyone for encouragement. As my other car most likely will be totaled I will be replacing these hoses real soon, need new daily rider!

Cheers!

 

....
oh, and remember to REMOVE the cardboard....
unlike me... had to take the fan and shroud back loose... to get it out...
at least I did not start it and wonder why it was getting hot...
and it would have!

 

Today is the day! I got this job going...

To my surprise drain valve on the radiator worked! So I was able to drain coolant. To get to the back of water pump I had to take off air filter housing, and while at it I took off throttle assembly - looked like it could use some cleaning and checking.

I was able to take off quite a few hoses, but found that some connectors are very corroded and some have like 3 mm of yellow gunk on them.
I have few more to take off (heater hoses are giving me hard time, can't reach those clumps with screw driver), then will start putting new ones in.

Now is time flush my own hoses with some drinks! Cheers!

 

Well done.

I stopped the alcohol a while ago, so another coffee on the way for the OLD guy.

 

Finally I was able to take all hoses off the engine, and managed to install big and medium ones. I am somewhat worried about installing injector heating hoses as I had to pull them out with force and it was a blind work to loosen the clamp on the return one. Any advice is welcome... perhaps I should route them a different way?

Another question - when(if) I am done replacing hoses - would you recommend to clean system with some 'system flush'/cleaner? There are some products that supposedly remove gunk and rust. Any specific product you would recommend?

Thank you.

 

No cleaner stuff for me, they tend to loosen stuff, OK that's the design, and that "stuff" clog the fine cross tubes of the alloy radiator cares. If gunk came out when the hoses were removed, flush the system as best you can with the garden hose, not forgetting the heater core. Factor in a rad out and professional clean in the near future.

Seemed to be less of an issue with the OLD Copper/Brass cores, which had larger tubes.

No advice on those clamps, my X300 had them replaced the day before I picked it up, so I have not had that pleasure.

 

The hoses are in! Took me four long evenings.

Few lessons learned:
- to install injector heating hose I first routed long metal wire that I managed to insert into the connector. Then I pushed oiled hose over the wire until it slid over the connector, and then pulled out the wire. It took me long time until I gave up trying to push and install the hose by itself.
- Not every hose from the kit will fit. I had to run to autozone and get generic hose to replace one that connects to expansion tank. Kit included the right one according to diagram online, but I needed like 6 inches longer hose. Also hose from block to heater valve did not fit.
- do not bend air hoses - they can break.

All in all - I am glad this is over and now I can lick my wounds in peace :-) (for a little while, the to-do list is still very long...)

 

Well done NJ2003XJ8.


I have been contemplating this job on my own 1990, 3.6 but was a little concerned about how tricky it might be. Having heard your experience I now feel more confident in giving it a go.


One question; There are lots of bits of metal pipework connecting some of the hoses together and some of mine look pretty rusted. Did you have to replace any? Does anyone know if these are available new now as I guess most second hand items will be pretty rusted to.


Cheers,


LeeP

 

HI LeeP,
I did water hoses only (I think more metal pieces are connecting air hoses). Few smaller connectors (like t-connectors) I have are bras or copper and ok. They looked like generic connectors. I would say replace them. I had one metal that goes to overflow reservoir - that one was clogged solid and I replaced it with plastic one long ago.

There is a pipe that goes under intake, it connects pump to heater, and has a nipple for injector hose. Mine looked rusty and I thought to replace it with a hose and t-connector in the middle, but for now I used it.

There are metal pieces that connect hoses to pump or engine block, if they fall apart I guess new ones will need to be pressed or screwed in(could be a tough job), but it is better to find out about them while replacing hoses than on the road.

If you go for it - have tons of patience, hundreds of gloves, flexible screwdriver for clumps would probably help(I was dreaming of one, but managed without).

Cheers!