XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

What Oil?

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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Vee
Castrol, on it's website is sticking with 1993. It might have to do with additives other than ZDDP?

Castrol USA - Castrol SYNTEC 20w-50

Look under the "Key Benefits" paragraph.
That may be on the ad copy for whatever reason.

But, it is nowhere to be found in the product specification sheet.

In any case, as a SM rated oil, it will meet all current gasoline catalytic converter requirements, or it cannot carry the SM rating.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cadfael_tex
... and generally there doesn't seem to be temp related recommendations anymore (especially to this degree).
Because it would hurt the all important CAFE rating.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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I'm a believer.

I've read the facts and I agree with you guys. the SM rating entitled the Castrol oil marketed "for classic cars" to be fine for our Jags.

I don't know why they're marketing department decided to go with the scare tactic for cars made after 1993, but it changed my purchase from Castrol to Mobil.

Will I switch, I don't think so. After all, Mobil 15w50 is confirming a higher zinc ppm amount than Castrol, but I'd use it if it were on sale.

Thanks for the lesson guys.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Vee
I'm a believer.

I've read the facts and I agree with you guys. the SM rating entitled the Castrol oil marketed "for classic cars" to be fine for our Jags.

I don't know why they're marketing department decided to go with the scare tactic for cars made after 1993, but it changed my purchase from Castrol to Mobil.

Will I switch, I don't think so. After all, Mobil 15w50 is confirming a higher zinc ppm amount than Castrol, but I'd use it if it were on sale.

Thanks for the lesson guys.
They get a lot of questions like that. There is a internal pdf from one of their "messaging" consultants that directs word for word what they say in this area.

From looking at a bottle of SYNTEC 5W50, it may also be a good candidate as it is a API SL rated oil.

There is a loophole in the rating system where the higher viscosities do not have to meet the same requirements with regards to addidtives. It is based on the theory that the higher viscosities are not specified for the "fuel economy" rated oils.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #25  
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after using Mobil 1 15w50 for about 10 years.
Last week I switched over to Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40.
it's fine without any oil presure issues.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mirage1
after using Mobil 1 15w50 for about 10 years.
Last week I switched over to Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40.
it's fine without any oil presure issues.
Apparently it is a fine oil from various reports on different forums. The Rotella 15W40 conventional is also a top choice.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 08:04 AM
  #27  
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New member, one of your old posts.

what exactly was your banjo leak and how did you fix it? I don't have a leak and have never noticed a problem with my system but recently discovered that the holes in the bolt do not line up with the pipes when tightened. this seems like a problem since it would prevent the overflow system from working as intended.

Thanks, Brad


Originally Posted by sidescrollin
im running mobil 1 0w-40 it could be 10-40 but i cant remember. It seems pretty good so far. Its fairley thin cold, but before fixed my banjo leak i only lost like a half quart in a couple of months.
im probably gonna put 15-50 in it next time because its usually pretty hot here.

btw dont buy oil at a parts store, its almost twice as much. I got 2 jugs of mobil1 which is enough to change oil for $50 at walmart. At advance or similar it would be $60-70.

see what is says in your manual. If its generally hot where u are run something a bit thicker.

btw i idle at like 65ish
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 08:38 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BradsCat
what exactly was your banjo leak and how did you fix it? I don't have a leak and have never noticed a problem with my system but recently discovered that the holes in the bolt do not line up with the pipes when tightened. this seems like a problem since it would prevent the overflow system from working as intended. Thanks, Brad

Brad
SS was, I think, referring to the oil feed banjos, which are almost impossible to see, engine in car, on the cabin end of the camshaft castings.
I suspect you are referring to the radiator top banjo, which is not the same one SS was posting about. Good luck with the car.
Greg
 

Last edited by Greg in France; Sep 11, 2016 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 04:53 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BradsCat
New member, one of your old posts.

what exactly was your banjo leak and how did you fix it? I don't have a leak and have never noticed a problem with my system but recently discovered that the holes in the bolt do not line up with the pipes when tightened. this seems like a problem since it would prevent the overflow system from working as intended.

Thanks, Brad
Originally Posted by Greg in France
Brad
SS was, I think, referring to the oil feed banjos, which are almost impossible to see, engine in car, on the cabin end of the camshaft castings.
I suspect you are referring to the radiator top banjo, which is not the same one SS was posting about. Good luck with the car.
Greg
Here is word doc from Grant Francis referring to the radiator top banjo.

Bleeding the V12 cooling system.doc
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 06:17 PM
  #30  
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so it works sufficiently well even though the holes do not line up with the pipes. Weird but what's new with these cars. As I mentioned I have not had any cooling issue with my car (but I did clean out the radiator debris and replace the fan blade from the original white/yellow plastic edition). I also installed TEBFA inline coolant filters because it seemed like a good idea - and they look good especially with the caps painted blue to provide some color contrast. The filters have never captured much so I am reasonably certain the system is clean on the inside.
 
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