I was tracking down a suspension noise in my 89 Shooting Brake and discovered that my wheel bearings were loose. I could feel a small wiggle in the tire when grabbing from the top.

First thing I discovered is that when I tightened the wheel bearing using "my" (probably like most) method, tightened the bearing with wrench while spinning, then loosen, then hand tight, that the bearing had too much play with tire back on. I felt no play in the brake rotor but could feel it after mounting tire and shaking tire.

So I experimented by tightening bearing nut with wrench in small increments until I got no play with tire mounted. I was surprised at how tight the nut had to be in order to eliminate the play.

First insight, I *think* that the suspension noise is gone but only took a short drive.

Second insight was how much tighter the steering felt, I couldn't believe that a tiny amount of play in bearing would affect steering that much.

Third insight was the effect on tracking, car felt noticeably more directionally stable on highway, not that it was bad before (I still need to get a final alignment), but it was much improved.

So, future searchers, keep wheel bearings in mind if you're fixing noises and alignment problems.

 

Andy
Just a note of caution. The play might be caused by a worn stub axle as well as by too a loose bearing adjustment. If the bearing and the stub axle are in A1 condition, you should be able to eliminate all play without having to exert much torque on the bearing adjustment nut. Could I respectfully suggest you remove the hub and take a look at the state of the stub axle? As if the nut is too tight, you can cause the stub axle to shear.
Greg

 

Not that it relates *directly* to the topic at hand, but since we're talking about front wheel bearings.....

When was the last time the bearings were removed, cleaned, and repacked? It's one of the most neglected routine service tasks.

Cheers
DD

 

Greg is spot on, It is surprising just how much movement at the tread is evident with only the slightest barely perceptible wear on the stub axle.
Grasp the top of the wheel and rock car side to side with some force, if worn you will feel it in the movement.

 

Very interesting, I will do that ASAP and report back.

 

Andy
The Great Palm is good on the topic. Remove the hub (requires the calliper to be unbolted or disc removed) and hang them up by a bit of string from the shocker or suspension, no need to disturb the fluid, bleed or anything), clean the sub axle and look very carefully where the bearing inner race fits the stub. If you can see, or feel an indent with your fingernail, change the stubs.
They are available. FWIW, I suggest you change the bearings too if they have not been renewed by you on the rebuild, or recently. Quite easy to knock the outers out of the hub, and use these to drive in the new ones. Apart from that straightforward.
Removing the old stubs once the nut is undone on the back of the upright can be a pain, they are a taper fit, but a puller rigged up on them and a sharp crack with a hammer usually does it.
You will notice the difference. Also, unless funds are tight, or they have been recently done, while you are in there a suspension and steering arm balljoint and change is always a good plan. You will end up with superb steering provided you did the rack mounts on your rebuild. But beware, only use top quality BJs, I stupidly got a couple of aftermarkets from a well known supplier that fell apart on 18 months. Lemforder are the OEM make and I have them now, excellent.
Greg

 

My 92 XJS has only 40,000 miles on it. I recently put it up on a local shop lift to replace all the suspension bushes, rotors, calipers and subframe mounts. All in an effort to get rid of a vagueness in the steering at speed.

It all helped, as did the urethane rack bushes. But it was still there.

So, I tore off the front wheels, rotors and bearings. And there is was!

I could catch my fingernail on the right front stub axle. Ordered an overnight replacement from Jagbits. Next day the car was running on rails.

I'll attest that even with NO apparent looseness in the front wheel (checked on a lift with the tire on the rim), you still can get the wobblies.

And, it doesn't take much mileage to put a bit of wear on the spindles...

 

Tis indeed interesting that Jaguar made the front axle shaft apart from the spindle. And thusly removable for replacement. I suspect to make the forgings simpler. Other critter's similar parts are one piece.


An oddity only partly understood by me, if at all, is the inner bearing's race riding on the shaft and revolving and thusly wearing.
Seems the races, inner and outer should be "still" and allow the rollers to spin about them. If the races spin on the spindle, why even
have roller cages???


How to "grease" them a suitable subject for another thread.


Carl

 

Well, I'm glad I posted this thread because the above member confirmed my impressions that steering was tighter (after tightening bearings) AND it's convinced me to replace stub axles.

I didn't even bother looking at old ones after I posted this, car has 67k miles and thus they must be toast based on other's experience.

I replaced everything in the front subframe as part of my restoration but I didn't mess with front wheels bearings, just cleaned and repacked. I don't recall noticing any wear on the front stub axle but again, I was a XJS newb and so didn't know what I was looking for.

I've got stub axles, new bearings and races and seals on the way. Glad I didn't get an alignment the other day!

 

When I did my front end I found both stub axles with significant wear on the underside, as though the bearings had been spinning on the axle.

If your car has ABS check the new seals that you have, I found the seals I was supplied (correct part number) did not fit and I ended up using XJ40 seals, these were exactly the same as the seals that came out.

 

this explains the rusty odd bit I found in my trunk w the Jack with thread on both ends and a larger dia. with a cone down to a smaller dia. ... I am thinking this was a removed stub axel... my acceleration while lane changing was scary... it was a missing sway bar bushing on the left front... also clunked and ratted when hitting bumps ( that is what I noticed first... of course) I will check mine as well...

 

sorry to be off topic, but does no one else think it is badass this dude scottpeterd drives an XJS around Uganda?

 

Update:
I bought new stub axles and wheel bearings and installed. Problem solved. Previously I'd tightened up the front wheel bearings to get rid of a wiggle in the tire. That worked but the good folks on the forum alerted me to possible worn stub axles.

Like others have said, the amount of wear is TINY and it was on the BOTTOM of the stub axle. Seems weird that the inside race of the bearing would rotate on the stub axle but it obviously does as evidenced by the wear.

I am again amazed at the difference in steering and suspension feel with new bearings and axles.

Thanks folks! The shooting brake is approaching perfection!!

 

I made spacers that go between the inner and outer bearing. They seat on the inner bearing flange, the stub axle side of the bearing. Each spacer is set for 1thou of end float on the bearing.

Rob Beere sells them as a pair.

 

http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/suspension.html#stub
Intended for track use, these spacers overcome the terrifying problem of brake pad "knock-off", where after hard cornering, the brake pedal disappears to the floor! This is caused by the stub axle which holds the wheel in place. Under extreme loads it can flex, which in turn allows the brake disc to push the pads back into the brake calliper. Another axle-related problem with Jaguars is in the adjusting of one's wheel bearings: the final adjusted position depends purely on an approximately adjusted castle nut, held by a split-pin!
These spacers serve two purposes: firstly they increase the effective diameter of the stub axle by 25%, secondly they positively locate both inner and outer bearings, allowing the adjuster-nut to be fully tightened. This eliminates axle flex and so brake pad knock-off.
Two types are available, depending on whether you have early or late (Series 2 XJ onwards) stub axles.
Price: £135.00 (Late type large stub axle), £115.00 (Early type small stub axle)

thanks

 

I had a set of these which I fitted. Very careful machining is required to get the endfloat exactly correct, they are NOT buy and fit items. BUT I did not have much luck with them, after a very few miles (all new bearings, stubs, balljoints etc etc) the ends of the spacer started to become indented, as if road shock was being somehow transmitted to the spacers, and as a result the endloat went to pot and bearing float became excessive. So I took them off and no more problems. I think that the steel needs to be of a rather higher quality to prevent this, at least in my case.
Greg

 

Forgot about this Greg, I made mine from 4340 High tensile steel, more good luck than good management, it was all my supplier had in the diameter I wanted.

 

I had the thought when this was mentioned earlier that it would be awfully difficult to set the length of the spacer correctly.

 

I think there couple of schools of thought on setting up these taper roller bearings, particularly on whether they should be set up as per the manual with end float, or pre loaded.
Certainly most taper rollers are set up with pre load and l am inclined to set up this way. Some believe if set up without preload there is a chance of the rollers slipping or sliding within the races rather than rolling.

 

Me too, I set them up to zero float, zero preload. But it must be done VERY carefully, too tight and the stub axle will sheer. I check for any heat in the hub after a fast blast when I have first done them, if no heat, all is well.
Greg