Wheel Rotation Dilemma?
When the handbrake shoes are off, can the driveshafts rotate or not?
If not, one explanation why they will rotate car on its wheels, but not when it is on a non-four post lift, is that the central propshaft bearing is jamming in its bearing.
Just a thought
Greg
If not, one explanation why they will rotate car on its wheels, but not when it is on a non-four post lift, is that the central propshaft bearing is jamming in its bearing.
Just a thought
Greg
Rog95,
Now the disc is off, you can probably feel the ridge on the inside where the handbrake housing has worn. Try and file it down before you refit the disc so that the disc can slide off nicely where that ridge used to be. Also, check very carefully the alignment and position of the pin and spring that holds the handbrake shoe to the backplate. If the shoe is slightly out of alignment, it makes it very difficult to remove the disc. Also clean and lubricate the adjuster.
Good luck
Paul
Now the disc is off, you can probably feel the ridge on the inside where the handbrake housing has worn. Try and file it down before you refit the disc so that the disc can slide off nicely where that ridge used to be. Also, check very carefully the alignment and position of the pin and spring that holds the handbrake shoe to the backplate. If the shoe is slightly out of alignment, it makes it very difficult to remove the disc. Also clean and lubricate the adjuster.
Good luck
Paul
I don't want to "rotate" the tires, I want to turn the hub/rotor so that the hand brake shoe adjusting hole is in position so I can back off the shoes, remove the rotors and pull the hubs. The hubs/rotors won't move. I just pulled the driver's side off with my slide hammer, will do the other side then post some pics. It appears that the rotors are hung up on the hand brake shoes. Puzzling since I didn't set the hand brake when I parked the car...?
Have you mic'd those rotors yet? There is no way I would turn inboards, they are too thin, not sure how thick the outboard rotors are. Plus I recall replacements being less than $100 for both.
Does the handbrake work the same as the inboard? If so, even without applying the handbrake, if the spring is worn the pads can be on or dangerous close to the rotor, so if left for a while they would probably be pretty prone to rusting and grabbing each other. Nvm, seems from another post like the outboards have a drum handbrake
I have attached three photos:
!. Is my hub puller in place and ready to pull the hub - it actually pushed the
axle out of the hub. I ended up having to use my Ingersoll-Rand impact gun to pull this hub because of
the interference of the hand brake shoes.
2. Is the puller attached to the slide hammer I had to use to get both hubs
off.
3. Is a pic of the problem. The right side hand brake shoes were jammed
into the rotor. The black dust is some of the burned friction material that
came out of the hub.
The right side hand brake was the problem and was an absolute biatch to get apart but it finally let go. The axles spin as they should now that they're free. The hub bearings on both sides are toast and all must be replaced - 107,479 miles and they really are overdue for replacement. The grease is burned and the bearings are heat discolored. The slide hammer is an "AmPro" I purchased from Advance Auto 15 or so years ago. After 21 years this rear suspension really needs this complete overhaul. Everything will be new, inluding Ferrodo rear rotors!
Last edited by Roger95; Sep 24, 2015 at 05:46 PM.
Roger95,
Good luck with the refurb. It sounds as if it will also improve your fuel consumption and performance as I guess you've been driving around with the handbrake shoes on, heating the disc and hub and thus burning the bearings. The car should be a revelation once rebuilt.
Paul
Good luck with the refurb. It sounds as if it will also improve your fuel consumption and performance as I guess you've been driving around with the handbrake shoes on, heating the disc and hub and thus burning the bearings. The car should be a revelation once rebuilt.
Paul
Thanks, the thing is I rarely used the handbrake and apparently the last time I did the right side didn't release fully even though the lever was all of the way down and the warning light was out. A good warning for us all.
Roger95,
It's easily done. Especially as the lever is always down, irrespective of whether the handbrake is on or off. I suspect we've all done it at some time!
Good luck with the rebuild
Paul
It's easily done. Especially as the lever is always down, irrespective of whether the handbrake is on or off. I suspect we've all done it at some time!
Good luck with the rebuild
Paul
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