My passenger's side switch keeps failing. Everytime I open it up, I notice black "oxidized" areas on the metal contacts. I keep cleaning it up, but it seems to come back within a few days.

I've attached a photo of what it looks like.

Any suggestions on a fix?

 

Once pitting has started on the little round pads touching the larger part you are done for. Replacing is the only solution. The original pitting probably started due to too high current which again was due to sticking mirror (dirty, frozen or .....)

 

Do you think it would work if I electro-plated the three metal parts?

 

You could try cleaning them up again and drop a blob of solder on each contact point and then gently file them down to the correct profile.
Then smooth off with very fine emery paper.
Or buy a new switch!
Steve

 

You could do the relay upgrade and then the switches will only activate a relay and should last much longer.

 

I think the switches are the same as my old 1985 VW Jetta.
The Jetta switches started getting 'balky' and intermittent so I pulled one out to look at it.

The plug looked familiar so I looked in my tool box and found some old Jaguar XJ-S switches and they fit (and worked).

You might find some old 1985-1989 era Jetta switches in a salvage yard for parts???
They are probably cheaper and easier to find used (or new??) than a Jaguar switch.

The rocker part is larger on the VW switches but they might fit.
The smaller rocker worked in the VW mounting hole.

bob gauff

 

The switches are on ebay all the time, usually for less than $20, howevet I don't know if these are genuine Jaguar switches, or chinese knock-offs, which may last no time at all.............but they're definately available......

 

No!

Beware of the $20 switches. If the switch housing has plastic tabs, then they will not fit into the bezel opening. I bought one a while back.

I ended up pulling that part out and doing some open heart surgery on the OEM part. Its now a Frankenstein mix of the two, but hopefully should work, trouble free, for years.

In the meantime, I will try to electroplate the OEM parts and see what happens. At worst, I throw it in the trash...

I'll let you all know what happens.

 

File and solder as described above will work better with relay but even if going to a new switch the relay is a good idea. Relay is a doddle to replace if put a convenient place on a socket.

 

Hmmm, do you have any details on adding a relay? I'm assuming I'd need one for each switch?

 

Sent you an email. I have a diagram I can send.